DavidMcGill

I thought I was going to get email notifications to replies in this thread but I didn't so I missed out on all of this discussion till now. Never thought it would go the direction it did, but seems to be some valuable info brought out. One thing I'd like to point out is the discussion of "verticals" in the frame as a reference for level. It is true that quite often vertical lines will be skewed in the frame, but one place where this never occurs is dead center. Each time I mount a camera on my rig, I zero the level by pointing it at something I know is a true vertical and putting the crosshair right on it. I hold it so that the vertical line of the crosshair lines up with the vertical line in the shot and then press the zero button. And it doesn't matter if the sled is tilted up or down. If it is a true vertical in the world and it is running right through the center of the frame, it will appear vertical in the frame IF the camera is level to the world. For me, this is the most fool proof way of calibrating the level of the whole system (camera + rig). As to location of the sensor, it seems to me that on the main part of the rig is far preferable to on the monitor. My main reason for this is my concern about the need to adjust the monitor from shot to shot. Would that not necessitate re-calibrating it each time it is moved? Or is there circuitry in place on most of these electronic levels that would compensate for that? Glad to hear Greg is coming out with an HD level. Looking forward to checking it out as soon as it is available!

I was going to post this in the Exovest thread, but that had descended into serious silliness! :D So here it is: Exospine Wonder if this could be adapted for Steadicam? And they complain about the $1,200.00 price tag! I paid $6500.00 for my Klassen (which I love!)

I am looking into getting and HD monitor for my sled (currently have a TB-6) and wanted to find out what options there are for an Electronic level/horizon indicator that can be imbedded in an HD image. I know about the Marshall one, but as far as I know that only works with specific models of their own monitors. XCS has one, but I'm pretty sure it is only SD. And for anyone who has the one made by Marshall, how is it working for you?

The Betz looks very similar to the one on the MKV. Are they the same basic design? I recently worked with a DP who did his own steadicam and he had a MKV. I really liked the top stage and am considering switching. (I currently have a DB3)

Does anybody have experience with this plate? It looks pretty good to me. Mk-V Alexa plate

1994 dollars are worth about $1.50 today so your $25k '94 dollars would be about $37.5k today.

Congratulations! Good luck and hope it goes really well!

Surprised you haven't gotten a reply to this yet. I think you did the right thing as far as setting up your rig. The one key thing as far as your operating is concerned is the stop of the pan. As your hand is a bit fleshy, there is a bit of play in it as a stopping device. If you are gripping the post to stop it from a fast pan, the torque of the sled will twist the flesh of your hand slightly which then (if you don't do anything to counteract it) will spring back just a little causing the camera to pan back in the opposite direction just slightly. The way to prevent that is to relax your grip the instant the camera stops. A little tricky and something that should be practiced. You have to time the relaxing of the grip exactly with the stopping of the camera. Too soon and the camera continues to pan. Too late and you get that bounce back. Hope this helps.

That is good for a laugh!