DavidWest

thanks Louis, i bought this plate several years ago on eBay for about 300 dollars, and then it didn't fit my efp top stage. finally getting around to putting all the pieces back together and need a plate now. I have a provid without a plate as well. I think somebody said that they are interchangeable. the worst part is i think i have the proper plate as well, just can t remember where i put it....

I have the dovetail plate shown.. i think it might be PRO? or??? looking to trade for an EFP plate. this is slightly too wide for the EFP top stage. i have a mill and could just cut to fit, but that seems a bit barbaric since someone here might have an older unused plate sitting around and could use a second plate of this variety. I am not sure what it actually goes to as i was told it was for the EFP when i bought it, and that does not seem to be the case. thanks david

Hi TJ, thanks for the response. My machining is accurate enough to do six, but machinging aside, most bearings that go into an application in pairs are shipped in pairs from the mfg. I'm not sure why, but probably so that even the slightest mistolerances arent doubled. If i did use six i am also afraid that the housing for all six would limit my upper and lower limits. (i do understand the pun of six, but at the same time the logic still applies) i will probably go ahead and use two since i have bearings that came in pairs. ill let you know how it comes out TJ since you were the only response out of so many views... cheers dbw

any help appreciated... i have an efp sled and gimbal<---(which i hesitate to take apart) a also have a 3a sled but it did not come with a gimbal. despite all warnings, i want to try and make one for it mostly just to see if i can. my question is how many pan bearings are being used in the two inch gimbals? i can see rational for using one in that you could avoid the complex alignment problems that two bearings present; however, two bearings could much more easily support the extreme loads that are presented when riding in a vehicle, etc... is this TOP SECRET, or can someone tell me if one or two pan bearings are more common in the 2inch gimbals? thanks, david

Alex- my 2 cents worth is: the steadicam is as complicated as a car (perhaps much more so). the physics are simple... the car is a mass on four wheels with a propulsion, steering and braking mechanism. that should be easy enough to build, and some people do. lots of people just customize their own. the steadicam is just sort of an inertial isolation system. just three main parts, the sled, vest and arm. it too should be easy enough to build and some people do. lots of people just customize their own. (the hbs site where you found Andreas's Rig has over 1900 members and under 40 full rigs in the showcase. it is tougher than it looks to build one.) Andrea's Rig that you point out took a great deal of time -just to machine the parts- , let alone the hours and hours of design time that he spent sketching his thoughts. Personally i think that he is rather innovative and brilliant. I have spent years tinkering with a bit of this and a bit of that. for me the end result was an understanding of why a machinist was worth so much per hour, and a HUGE understanding of the difference between a "one off" design and a production run of parts that were placed in jigs and or cnc'ed. for you i would say to buy what you can afford already built and shoot film (or dv) and do what you think you want to do, ie operate and film. those who truly get sidetracked find that the home builder vortex is a great time consumer... at the same time i have learned to use a lathe and a mill and have made many parts for my cameras. But i also have learned that all of those steadicam parts that i THOUGHT were so expensive, are really not so bad once you start seeing how long it takes to carve one out of a chunk of metal....

notice the biceps required to operate the handle..... :rolleyes:

does anyone know what motors will work with that wrc4??

Jens, please message me thru the forum if you still want to sell the canisters. my desktop/email is down so i lost your email... the last i heard you said that mine was the best offer.... but then i never heard back from you.... thanks, david

the owners of those two websites are listed as: sinefaring.com May, Rin *****@sinefaring.com 8805 North Plz Apt 1364 Austin, TX 78753 US +1.+1.4504007757 www.builtinpendant.net Mirza, Lisa *****@builtinpendant.net RR.2BOX217-C Princeton, WV 24740 US +1.+1.7304009292 If there is an active website that is still offensive to you, then you can go to this link - http://www.dnsstuff.com/ and enter the website domain name into the whois section and it will tell you who the owner is (for free).... the link that i gave you in the earlier post will allow you to search for websites owned by a particular person for a fee... i am still somewhat unclear as to what the person actually did, but i guess that it is fair to guess that it is slander at the very least... good luck and i hope that you are successful in ridding yourself of the pest... best regards, david

you might want to try this.... it would help you find ALL the sites that this person has used your name to register with.... (if that is what you are saying is wrong) Whois Source (http://www.whois.sc) offers a reverse IP tool (for paid members) that can be used to locate multiple domain names registered by the same registrant. http://www.name.com/brand/reverse-whois.html Reverse Whois allows users to perform advanced searches in Name.com Whois catalogue. With this tool, users may search for domain names by any relevant variable-registrant name, phone number, etc. Results are then returned in a professional report that includes full Whois data for each flagged domain name. Your original post was vaque and confusing. A small number of internet search results sometimes linked to my name, or discarded copyright, were created by an internet stalker. "internet search results" are actually the product of a search engine as i understand it. Your name does pop up with several VIAGRA sites on yahoo.com . is this the problem that you are trying to fix? If so I wish you all the best in luck (could you fix my email spam while your at it, thanks)... or if someone is using your name to register sites then the above link is probably your best bet. cheers, david

if you purchase seperately you will probably not save much money.... ie- one of these and one of those can take months (or years in my case) to put together.... if you buy it all at once you can begin to practice and also start making money sooner... so even though a greater expense, if you can afford it i would buy a whole package... this goes for almost any business.. (mixing and maching of brands is what lots of folks seem to be doing, ie a gpi-pro arm, rear mount vest, xcs-inc sled..... ) all i am trying to say is try to buy the best that you can afford as quickly as possible so that you can put it all together and use it... just my 2cents worth.... (and remember, advice is worth what you pay for it....) david

thanks Charles....

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...em=250018692506 for a little more money....??

.....do.....not....bypass....the.........breaker....! . . . . . . . . . ............the result will be that you will melt wires in places that you do not want to melt them and you will have even more shorts than you already have. ................IF it is a BAD BREAKER, you could temporarily replace it with an inline fuse of the correct amperage until a new circuit breaker arrived.............(quick fix)....... but odds are that a wire is shorting out in the post (where movement occurs) or second choice is a hot wire has bounced around or melted thru insulation and is touching ground causing the breaker to pop.... THE FIRST thing that i would do looking at your photo is make sure the back of your switches that go 12/24 are not grounding out. if they have become loose from switching them you could have a problem there on the connections on the rear of the switches....(depending upon how they wired to get to 24v, a failed switch here could be causing the problem) also be careful not to let the back of the breaker touch anything.... or... is the AB mount on the bottom of the rig shorting out?

short.... FIRST- to trace- take off every cable that you can. try it, if it does not pop put cables back on one at a time and see when it pops... when it does pop the last cable that you put on is the culprit. replace it. if it pops even when all cables are removed, you must take off more wires... open up the base. LOOK CLOSELY at the breaker itself and see if you can see the exposed switched side of the breaker touching anything. (also look to see if you can see any wires touching things that they should not be touching, ie worn insulation) if yes, insulate, if no , proceed. CHOOSE A OR B test your breaker by removing the wires from the switched side. does it pop without a load? replace... if it does not pop, introduce a load such as a small 12v bulb and see if it pops. if yes, replace breaker, if no reattch original wires and goto B B: there are some multipin connections that your post wiring connects to the base with... try taking those off and see if it pops..... once you find the wire that is shorted the breaker will not pop if you put the battery on. you can then trace the wire to see where it is rubbing the bare metal and repair.