Daniel Stilling DFF

Hey Louis, Sorry it took me a while to respond... I wanna preface this with saying that my past Heden motors have been the horizontal kind, so if the features I described bellow are shared by any other of the analog Hedens, I apologize in advance. Magnus overnighted me an M26VE motor that got here yesterday, so I haven't been able to test it out yet with cameras, but I did a side by side comparison with the M1 I have. I know the M1 is analog and the Heden is digital, but I believe the M1 digital is not physically different at all from it's analog brother. Size wise there is quite a difference! The Heden is quite a bit more compact, both in height as in width. The gear is a lot smaller on the heden, and I have a feeling this is going to make it a lot easier to mount it on cramped spaces. The Heden is lighter as well, but the biggest difference is the noise level. You can barely hear the Heden turning around and it's quite a bit startling to hear the M1 in comparison. The M26VE is beautifully made, very nice in all details, the rod clamp is solid and it fits 15mm and 19mm rods, by removing the inner sleeve. One fantastic solution is the snap on gears. Unlike the M1, the Heden gears can be mounted on either side of the motor. I was a big fan of the M1, but this one have changed my mind! The BDR is also excellent. Together, the Heden and the BDR are a tight, very small but super efficient package. A moment after you attach the motor to the BDR it starts auto calibrating. It works virtually just as a Preston. Once it's done, the motor turns just as fast as the M1, has a ton of torque and it's super silent. I'm super happy with this set up. Check out the noise levels: M One x Heden M26VE sound

Just received my own BDR, looking forward to receiving my Heden motor so I can put the set to work. It really is impressive how small the BDR is, very nicely done.

Hello all, I know that through times there has been a plethora of offerings concerned weight cages and/or plates. I was just wondering what is available these days and if anybody has some good advice. I used to only fly big cameras, but it seems like they are either going giant (3D comes to mind) or tiny (7D, HDVs), and I have been getting calls lately for the little guys so it's time to get one of them cages. Please help me out! :)

That sums it up. It's not the right tool for the job and it's extremely dangerous. With all the wind up there you will not have a usable shot. Better to use gear designed for aerials.

The compactness of the Jr. is definitely a plus, as you guys have pointed out. Maybe the best solution will be getting a full functioning SR. and have both, just transferring the Steadi bits, depending on the job and location...

Hey all, I have had a Filmtools Magliner Jr. with all the Steadi bits on it for years now. Now that I got a nice van, where I can push my cart right in, I'm thinking of upgrading to a Sr. as I have plenty of room, and it would be nice to carry some extra cases on the cart. Question is: is it worth to just buy the Sr. parts (frame and shelves) and exchange it with the Jr. bits? (pneumatic wheels, front assembly where the handles go, etc) or are the savings so small it's better to just get a regular Sr. and transfer the Steadi bits? Has anybody done this? Thanx!

I always used the 100% video top without any issues for years. It does take a few screws to do the conversion, but any AC worth their salt should be able to do it half asleep, with one hand tied... I remember the good old days of having to do a GII conversion, with all the different screw sizes and a certain order, now that was fun! :(

I use solely an iPhone app called "Invoice 2 go" and it works great. It might not have all the advanced features you are seeking, but having it working in your pocket is great. After i wrap a job, I go sit in my car and in less than 5 minutes I have emailed an invoice to the client. Worth taking a look...

Yes - I thought might help me walk in a straight line or at least keep the lens pointing the right way :) I am yet to be convinced of the value its just an experiment it does read when you are not tilting or panning and might help for example when doing a 90 turn down a corridor into a room and you want the room composed square - which is what I like Sam 'going south' MM Honestly, if you spend all the precious time you have during a shot looking at a compass, you might miss details like a stand in the movie, or even the general framing itself. i for one am always scanning the edge of the frame, then the subject itself, and just then a glance at the level, just to confirm all is good...

One day left on the auction above! happy bidding!

One day left on the auction above! good bidding!

On eBay! http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=220701192247&ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT#ht_547wt_1141 Enjoy!

Now on eBay: http://cgi.ebay.com/...T#ht_547wt_1141 Good luck!

I have an XCS monitor bracket, and I keep my screen as close to the post as possible. I figured out long ago the dynamic balance with the battery configuration I like, and I never change it. That's until I go on to low mode, then all betts are off: I extend my monitor bracket almost all the way, so I can see the screen better. Dan

New price $ 1,400.00

New price $400.00

I'm glad I was able to get my order in last moment! Thank you for a super fast turnaround! Dan

For sale is my Transvideo Frameline Generator. It works great, has a few usage marks but performs without a problem. New price $1,100.00 http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/601475-REG/Transvideo_94FRAMLN_FRAMELINE_GENERATOR_NTSC_.html Asking $ 600.00

For sale are my trusty Modulus 3000 and Sony TU1041 Tuner. The Modulus has been working without any issues, never had it serviced or repaired, it works like a charm! it comes with 2 antennas, and 7 power cables: 2x11 pin for Arri 12V 3 pin for Arri 24V 2 pin Lemo for Panavision Power Tap (Anton Bauer) 4 pin hirose for Sony and Panasonic broadcast cameras (F900, Beta's, 700's, Varicam, HDX 900's etc) and Steadicam sled 4 pin XLR The Tuner works perfectly as well, comes without cables or antennas. All items have marks from usage, but perform flawlessly! Asking $ 1,700 for the whole package. The cables alone are worth more than half of the asking price. Buyer pays for shipping. Items located in Orlando, FL

Am I seeing double or are there 5 batteries on that rig in the last picture? Man, those things are monstrosities... I miss the good old days of 435's or SR 3's. I have a feeling that I have seen the last film camera on my rig...

Sometimes even when you write in your credits clearly during the start paperwork process, they can still get it wrong. I went recently to the theater to watch a movie that I did a little while ago as Operator/Steadicam, just to find out that they erroneously credited an operator good friend of mine for the whole thing. He took over on the last 2-3 days of shooting, as I had to leave. I did about 6 weeks of shooting and got zero credit...(obviously it's not my friends fault) Dan

Hey MArk, My vote goes for the Omnishot. It works great, looks slick and always got nice comments out of the AC's. The batteries are affordable and last forever... Dan

In my experience, the bigger productions, if/when they push, is well ahead of production start date, not last second, and I would be surprised if anybody ever got a pay or play clause in. Besides that, they have a huge scheduling puzzle to work out. A push is a big nightmare and in reality a Steadicam op. is just a minor detail in their view... It's up to you then, ahead of time, if you want to stay on the show or take something else. On smaller independent shows, the push is most likely a result of lack of funding, and they are trying to raise funds, so chances are you won't be able to get any penalty payment, as they simply don't have the cash. In the end it boils down to being savvy: If you feel that production is serious and have a good reason for pushing, then I normally try to be a team player, and re-arrange things so it can happen. If you feel like the show is not going to happen or keep pushing, move on, take other gigs and cut your losses, but I will in no circumstance send out my gear ahead of time and let it sit in the production office. If that would ever happen like in your example, I would have production ship it back to me.

For sale is one original decimator, used twice, looks like new. No power cables, buyer to pay for shipping. $ 400.00

And here is a shot of Don on the finishing touches on the gear for the M1,000 motor, that uses that connector.