Lawrence Karman

Price reduced to $3200

Bump

G-4 MDR2 updated today to latest software and radio revision. Cables included:

Mariano, is it holding level? Does it drift or need recallibrating after some time?

If anyone is interested in a How Steadicam works podcast, here it is:

https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/stuff-you-should-know/id278981407?mt=2&i=370829370

It's seriously simplistic but has some nice history about the man himself, GB. Enjoy

I have my own wedge. You should too for reasons I stated in earlier post.

Regardless of who supplies the plate you must ask yourself do you want to be remembered as the operator whose footage had vibration? I always went out and got what I thought would make my work better. That being said, I never had an issue with Alexa vibration using stock PRO dovetails.

Alan that looks great. Just as a side note, we are using an Odyssey 7Q monitor/recorder as the director's hh monitor with 2 Bolt Sidekick receivers attached. He can do split screen on it for A&B cam simultaneous viewing, or switch back and forth between the 2. 1 AB battery powers it all. Great set-up.

I just had a hard case seriously crushed in by FedEx. They informed me they do not cover "enclosures" for damage. The monitor inside was OK but the case is trashed. At least Pelican will replace any broken cases for life for no cost. But maybe the hard case helps to protect the contents better?

Lawrence. they do sort of exist. Phil Cramer of Panavision toronto, built one for me but had to build a mini 3V circuit into the lemo. I know others who had burnouts but it always worked for me. there is the danger if the MDR is on unregulated power of zapping the Red, but i always run camera battery separate from the sled.

I stand partially corrected. Preston does not make a cable.

Doesn't exist. MDR 2 or 3 only

2-3 years.

Looking for a level sensor cable for a Gen 2 Cinetronic monitor.

email me doc659@gmail.com or message me.

1 Ground, 2 + 24v

As Brooks said:

I also own a SmallHD 702, which is a great onboard monitor for traditional operating, but it is far too light and reflective for use on the rig, at least for my taste. Good luck with your search!

But it does have great off angle view-ability.

ditto on the great service from John Ritter!

I've had my Dionic HC's recalled 2 times already by Ritter and both times the results were excellent. My only complaint is this last time in a few of the batteries the cells tend to shift around inside. While this has not presented itself as a balance problem I would suggest , if he's monitoring this thread, to pack them more tightly inside the shells.

I've got a Video 8 deck you can use.

The Microwave transmitter is not G4 upgradable, so not likely that the MDR 2 is G4, (but it can be upgraded)

Motors have been SOLD.

Thanks form the interest. SOLD.

Pricer further reduced to $6000

Josh,

First off remove the strap from the camera and the lens cap. Believe it or not, that will effect the balance. Secondly, before you mount it to the Steadicam, attach the plate to the bottom of the camera (which you have already) sit the camera on a pencil or small tube and find the front to back balance point where it roughly balances on and then try and place that center point directly over the center of the Steadicam post. Same can be done with the side to side axis. If there is an adjustment screw on the top stage for side to side adjustment it looks like the camera needs to move to the right slightly. If not then use a different side to side hole on the dovetail plate to accomplish the same thing. If you run out of turns on the adjustment screws you will need to remount the camera in different holes on the dovetail plate. Also, as Janice has said, you may need to slide the gimbal up slightly to make it more bottom heavy. And all this would be easier to accomplish if you had a lighting or grip stand to mount this to.

LVSC,

If you live or work in Las Vegas, as your avatar suggests, then there are training sessions given there by Robert Starling. Additionally there are many things to learn about operating the Steadicam that are beyond just balancing it which you may benefit from by taking a course. Let's just say it's not as easy as it looks. Perhaps you are coming across a bit arrogant to those that have worked so hard to learn this skill or who have offered advice that is not exactly what you have asked for.

Regardless, did you try what I suggested?

Mount your camera on the top. Put the supplied weights on the bottom. Make the center post as short as possible. Now hold the handle with one hand and tilt the post until it is parallel to the ground (camera lens is pointing towards the floor). Now slide the gimbal (the ring that is around the center post and connected to the handle) either up or down the post until the camera does not want to tilt down to the floor or to the ceiling. If the camera wants to go towards the floor then slide the gimbal up toward the camera. And the opposite if the weights want to go towards the floor. If you can't slide the gimbal up far enough then extend the post which will move the weights away from the camera and make it more bottom heavy. And if it is way too bottom heavy and you have to slide the gimbal too far towards the weights then remove some weights. Once you have it close to even then slide the gimbal up towards the camera just a little bit so that it takes maybe 3 seconds for the weights to drop down to the floor and the post is pointing at the ceiling. Now once you get it close you want to have the post straight up and down and you will either have to move the camera left or right on the top stage via the small knob on the right to balance it side to side. If you can't turn it far enough to balance you may need to mount the camera in a different hole on the dovetail plate. Same thing with balancing front to back. If there is another knob there turn until the camera stays level or loosen the dovetail plate in the top stage and slide the camera dovetail forward or back as needed and tighten the dovetail in place. Yu may need to mount it in a different hole there too if that is an option. If it is too front heavy mount the camera further back and visa versa.

If you can't figure this basic principle out take a class as others have suggested. If you do figure it out start charging $2000/day like everyone else. Good luck and USE YOUR REAL NAME!