Mike Germond SOC

That looks just like the Link system that I got to demo. It makes the camera so long that you get great inertia out of it. I hit a few door frames with the antennas though.. As for the camera, I think you are flying a 1400. The 1450 is a Triax camera. We had the Sony techs in our studio a few weeks ago and they went over all of the models with us. HDC1400R: Portable Multi Format HD Camera Optical Fiber Interface HDC1450R: Portable Mulit Format HD Camera Wide Band Triax Interface HDC1500R: Multi Format HD Camera Optical Fiber Interface HDC1550R: Multi Format HD Camera with Wide Band Triax Interface :blink: :blink:

The 1450 is only similar in size and body style, otherwise it is completely different. The 1450 is a Triax camera while the 1500 is a Fiber camera, so Mogami 1354 coax will not help you with the 1500. The 1450 also is short an SDI2 and a Prompter2 connector, and has a different menu structure. Hey Marc, how do you like that Link system? I may be the lucky beneficiary of some generous corporate spending pretty soon here. I've only got to fly the system once. Here's a shot of the 1500 rear panel so you can know what to expect:

my inner arm cranks up higher than the outer section too...I thought it was just an anomaly, but maybe not..

Is this 6ft Mohawk jumper something that would be available out of the rental house? As for powering this camera, I read it uses a 4 pin XLR similiar to the F900R. Any issues powering it then through my rig with the Dionic 90 batteries, or do they come with a specific battery type that I need to fly on board? Is there an SDI BNC port on the camera so I can have image on my TB-6 or do I need a downconverter for it? Thanks Mike. Robert I left you a message on your cell. That camera will have an "SDI1" which is a clean output all the time (no menu/framelines/focus/zoom/fstop/filter/gain data), and an "SDI2" which can be configured but I use it as a VF output and utilize the camera's framelines and on screen data. There are also a "Prompter1" and Prompter2" BNC that are composite feeds that correspond directly to a composite input on the back of the CCU. It also has a "Test Out" which can be configured to downconvert one of the returns among other things. This is a tricky configuration so rather than try and describe it, I've attached screenshots of the menu pages you need to deal with to configure it to downconvert a return or the "Main" camera signal. It sounds like you need the latter of the 2. When I've used the camera in the past with a composite sled monitor, I used the Test Out for that and had the PGM return downconverted at the CCU and sent over a Prompter line. Now that I have an HD sled monitor, I can use the camera's downconverter for return, but it sounds like you need 2 SD signals. Note that Prompter2 is disabled at the CCU by default, so if you try this and get no signal, that is most likely it. Prompter1 is enabled as composite by default and can be switched to SD-SDI if you so desire.

I fly that camera every day and have configured my CCU to a T, so if you have any menu, connections, workflow questions feel free to ask. Ditto what Robert said, I fly with a 6ft Mohawk jumper and a G-zoom canon focus edition.

call or email Erik about the G-Zoom...it is the lightest, most compact zoom/focus all in one controller you will find. I too have a Varizoom controller and it's not ideal, clumsy and not very smooth basically summed it up. The trouble may be if he can make it small enough for the Flyer gimbal handle. I too am curious, so let me know what you find out..

Camera Essentials and Jerry Hill are essentially one in the same. I think they must make covers for Jerry, so check in with him. I know he has the Arm Cover. Camera Essentials has a variety of monitor/battery covers for the bottom of specific sleds. Those might also be available through Jerry. Always best to support another operator if you can..

A hipocrite is my biggest pet peeve, so I wouldn't want anyone here to think of me as one. I will speak with Jack privately to see what's bugging him. It doesn't matter to me where you're from, I'll pull for the good of the community every time. I've been getting jobs stolen from me because someone is accepting lower rates, and that's the reason I am a part of this discussion.

Very presumptuous comments from someone who won't even show themselves and use their real name. Maybe a review of the forum's terms and conditions is in order from you. Secondly, you better check your facts, because your numbers are VERY far off.

Huh? First off why would you fly it on the camera? I use ONE on the base of the sled and I get over an hour out of it. It was a last minute production choice and there was no time to have a power cable made for the sled. For less weight, you could get longer life out of your setup with the PowerCubes. But I understand that operators commit to one or the other when you buy the sled, and Ron makes a good point about ballast.

I suppose so. I flew one on the back of a VisLink RF system, and that's the last time I'll do that. Of course there's something to be said about having those 5.5lbs above the gimbal. The sad part is that I drained 4 140's that day, and it was only powering the RF.

I chose V-Lock because 2 PowerCubes have MORE milliamp hours than 1 Hytron 140 and weigh less, and since nobody would ever fly with Hytron 140's on their rig, that says a lot to me about IDX! To be exact: PowerCube - 6805mAh @ 14.4v, 1.75lbs Hytron 140 - 9722mAh @ 14.4v, 5.5lbs

All of us Florida guys need to band together as well. I've been getting the "I'm calling to compare prices" phone calls from UPM's lately, which means they are taking whoever gives them the lowest rate with not much consideration for ability. I've heard mention of some rediculously unreasonable rates floating around too, things I wouldn't operate on sticks for. That "boat school" is saturating the market around here which doesn't help either..

This was my favorite run-and-gun shoulder mount that I've used with the HVX200. Mighty Wonder Cam

I have always been a fan of controllers that wrap around the gimbal. I recommended Erik's controller to Golf Channel for their new rig, and I would purchase it in a heartbeat for my personal rig. The zoom paddle has a good feel and operates very smoothly, no jerking at the start of a push or a pull. The focus wheel is conveniently under the gimbal where your index finger already sits, and also has some drag to it for a good feel. It's a direct interface with Canon's HDTV ENG lenses which have built in zoom AND focus servos, and it can always control your BFD if you encounter a Fuji or older Canon lens without the servo. It's basically everything that I've wanted in a compact controller. Not to mention, Erik has must have a Blackberry tethered to his hip judging by the quick email responses (and signature tag).

I was looking at Shear-Loc's website and they have exactly what you're talking about. They fit over allen cap screws, right? Where do you typically get yours from? Mike

I'm looking for a relatively compact thumb/wing screw for some rod brackets I'm making. A Kipp handle might work but I'm thinking more compact. I need to pinch the rods like the bracket in the attached picture. Grip is obviously something to consider. I can't find anything this small on McMaster Carr. What are your recommendations?

John- We have the same Canon HJ11x4.7 HDTV lenses that you have. I use the G-zoom, which wraps tightly around the gimbal and utilizes the lenses built in servos for zoom and focus control. It also has a VTR button to view any of the camera's 4 returns. In the photos, we hadn't gotten it yet so I had a tripod zoom controller on there.

I liked the Ringlight Mini demo that LitePanels sent over a few months back, but like Charles and Sydney have suggested, I can't find many situations that call for it. Ultimately, I found myself dimming it to 50% and turning off the very top section (or top 2 sections) to avoid that "local news light on the camera" look. In the studio, all we really want to achieve is some fill under the chin and nose. For that, I've got a LitePanels MiniPlus brick (3200K flood) under the lens. It's not as overpowering as the ringlight, not as expensive, far less space consuming, and easier to flag. The base kit comes with a 1/4-20 swivel mount and coiled PTap cable. Whatever you choose, I think you'll get far more use out of a Flood fixture..

That's embarassing...I wouldn't even show up with my Flyer LE for that rate. My rule of thumb is to charge the average of operators in the region that I'm working in (which has sadly decreased since moving to FL). I don't feel that I can charge more given the gear that I have, but I also don't want to be the guy in the above stated situation. Mike (pullin for the community) Germond

Thanks for posting that Robert, that's exactly what I have done with the 2.5" It's a very sexy solution, especially if you can have sled specific cabling made to fit your application.

One of my new favorite little things for Live TV is a 2.5" LCD for PGM, because you can stick it right on top of your monitor, you'll always know when you're on, and believe it or not it works great for framing with graphics if required. Nevermind the 4:3 aspect, and most HD cameras can internally downconvert at least once. Pick the brand of your choice, but here's the general idea: http://www.markertek.com/Digital-Video-Production/Video-Monitors/LCD-Video-Reference-Monitors/Delvcam-Monitor-Systems/V2500.xhtml?V2500PAL Another must is a lightweight, flexible jumper as Adam mentioned. 6ft usually does the trick. The fiber variety will cost you the most, at about $700 from Mohawk last I checked. That's all I need to cover my bases, the rest is just luxury..

Subscribed! This thread is very intriguing. I'm going to give Eric's method a shot, because I'm still chasing the illusive DB on the Ultra2. My question is for us tethered guys. Will balancing with my fiber disconnected have any affect on the DB once I'm in show? I have the Mohawk jumper and like it hanging just off the right side of the post, near the gimbal. It tends to pull my rig slightly right (plus the connector itself has some mass), so I compensate with side-to-side adjustment once I'm up and flying. I ask because it's nearly impossible to get an accurate spin balance on the stand with a fiber hanging off.

I wish I had a picture of this. I had to rent a 1st gen Flyer from a friend, and loaded it with an EX-1, Letus35 Elite, 50mm lens, BFD w/ m-one, and matte box (with polarizer and ND) all on a zacuto rail system with riser and their 3.5lb counterweight because the dang thing was so front heavy. Thank god it was a lowmode vehicle shot because I'm not sure it would have balanced out with all that above the gimbal. I did get creative with my antlers to achieve the drop time I wanted. Now that I'm reminded of it, I might seek out the set photographer..

Optical Fiber Sony HDC-1500 and Canon 11x4.7 HDTV lens w/ ring light and 2 monitors: That camera/lens with dovetail and no viewfinder clocks in at 18lbs. With the extra monitor and ringlight, I'd estimate the final payload is around 24lbs. You'll also notice how I had to deal with that lack of power/video jacks that Robert hinted at. Granted it's not an XDCAM, but we have a few of those sitting around TGC and it certainly doesn't outweigh that package.