Mike Germond SOC

I must say, some of the advice in this thread has helped me a lot.. Some of the more "newsy" shows I do for the Golf Channel use me as a dolly on all the wide shots. Every day it seems like the director wants "slower, no even slower, really slow but keep steady". Granted, I'm using a Flyer LE for a job that really calls for a Clipper at the least. Tuning down the arm a little helps to mask the steps, but lifting slightly with my boom hand has helped. After all, Steadicam is all about moving the lens, moving your body just happens to be a necessary part of that. Watching back some of my shots on my 47" HDTV reveals an improvement in horizon movement. At times it looks almost mechanical! It's probably all for nothing though, because I'm the only one that notices these little imperfections. All I know is once Peter gets those demo Clipper and Ultra2 units down here to Orlando, my life is going to get a LOT easier!

In my experience with weddings, the 5DMKII was reserved only for the detail shots. We never used it for live action. HDV seems to be the going solution for cheap equipment when you need more than 1 camera. As a joke, I've seen it mounted up on a glidecam for a wide open non critical action shot. I won't touch the thing in that run-and-gun scenario. I don't want to set myself up for failure if there is a better option. Plus it makes recording sound a headache. I'll only use it, as Charles said, on a controlled set with a skilled focus puller.

Tim, We are only looking for a solution within our 4,700 square foot studio. Range isn't of concern as much as avoiding a video/sound delay in a multicam environment and avoiding wireless hits. Where can I find more info on the Link? I'll pass it along..

I'm bringing this back from the dead.. Are there any solutions out there for attaching some of these LCD panels to the Viewfinder mount on the ENG style cameras like the HDC-950 or HDC-1500?

They will have a LED front tally that shows the camera number in green when off air and red when live. Additionally, I will be using the tally built into the TV Logic 7" HD monitor. They have photosensors already on hand for that. It would just be a matter of making a connector with the correct pins for the sled in question. Today, they confirmed that they want both Main and PGM Return to be HD monitors, so that narrows down the search. SkyDreams is going to hook us up with a deal on their AirPaint system which is essentially a wireless extension of the exact CCU's that we are using. The Boxx Meridian looks like a winner for the video link. The resulting problem is that now I have no PGM return. We will see just how much money they are willing to spend. After a $2mill studio overhaul, this is mere pennies. Every show we do gets heavier with Steadi and lighter with Jib and static shots. Here's a taste of the fabulous setup that I'm making all of these beautiful pictures with right now: http://www.mikegermond.com/photos/v/tgc-bu...060020.JPG.html

That's what I suspected. Sony HDC cameras are supported by it as far as interfacing with the control port on the back panel, but Gigawave's shader and receiver has to be used..

John, the whole game has changed at The Golf Channel since the full HD overhaul and rebuild of Studio A (photos of which are on my website by the way). They told me Andy requested a lightweight jumper on several occasions. We're only 1 week in and they already ordered 2 for me. The reason I posted this question is because Engineering asked me to recommend some options yesterday. I passed Gigawave and Link Research along to them and they are looking into it. As an operator I could care less about being wireless, especially since I did tonight's show on the Flyer LE with fiber tether and NO jumper. It can only get easier from here. But the higher ups are pressing the issue. If they've got money to spend, I'll let them. To answer your question about rigs, they haven't made a move on a new system yet. Everything is on my rig at least for the next 2 weeks. I passed them complete quotes on new Artemis, Clipper 312, PRO, XCS, and MK-V. I'm pulling for MK-V but they might lean towards Clipper. They end around the same price after prompter/program monitors, ring lights, and the whole 9 yards. On a side note, Bob Van Dorn mentioned your name last week. We were discussing rental options for a fallback, and he mentioned you like a rental house :lol:

Eric- you know what I mean...wireless solution for a fiber setup Andrew- I did see that Gigawave used the HDC-1500 in a picture for the Camera Control System. They just make a note to call them for details on specific cameras, but I figured they made something for the popular brands and models. It may even be able to interface with the current shader controls. Engineering is so picky, they'd throw a fit if we changed things too much..

This would be for The Golf Channel studios, therefore it needs to support camera control and would ideally interface with the current SMPTE fiber system. Cameras are Sony HDC-1500's. Gigawave is the only solution I can find in any searches thus far. Any other recommendations? Happy New Year! Mike ps- watch the Live debut of our new studio for the first time tomorrow (1/4/10) @ 6pm EST

So there is a focus add-on for the G-zoom? I was gonna make production buy a Stanton..

I have a Jeep baby carrier that I may try and outfit with the Steadicam logo. I think a family photo with the rig on is in order for next years christmas card.. :lol:

Isabella Ann was born a beautiful little 6lb 7oz baby girl last night in Daytona Beach, FL...and we couldn't be happier. So this will be brief because I'm headed back to the hospital!

what about the male end that you are making? can you see the pin #'s there to confirm the wires are correct?

I think what Jim is saying is that there should be numbers on the solder side of the LEMO connector pins that correspond to the diagram, regardless of which way you're looking at it.

Jim, Shouldn't it be a mirror image of the diagram I posted? The diagram was for the female LEMO on the sled. If he's making a Male cable, shouldn't the pins read clockwise?

I agree with Dave, and I think the biggest difference between competitors in that weight class is manufacturing tolerances. When you're dealing with the physics of a Steadicam, there's no substitute for precision..

Any camera package that is using fixed lenses will require a Seitz/Bartech/Preston unit (in order of cost). You might be able to find an used Seitz that will work for your needs, but more than likely you are going to want a Bartech for the long run. If you get a strong client base going, it can eventually become the backup to a Preston.. I should note that there are cheaper/other options out there, but I can only speak for the long standing tried and true hardware.

wouldn't want to accidentally go thru TSA with that baby!

Can any of you G-Zoom owners comment about the feel of the zoom lever? Does it work well for creeping slowly? Does it work well for ramping up (or down) speed during a zoom? Have any of you used the Bebob Zoe ENG-8, and if so how does it compare? Thanks, Mike

Yea that's the one. They call that an F-bracket? Odd.. It's a direct swap out for the stock post. It uses the same screw and everything. You're right in that it is 1/2", not 5/8", and it is the same diameter down the entire post. I may have gotten it by a fluke in Tiffen's system because they accidentally charged me only $35..

Flyer LE arm...I guess what I mean is one doesn't exist. My only choice of bracketry accessories was the D bracket (back when I purchased this stuff)

Jim, re-read my post. You must have replied right as I caught my error. Afton, those results are from a multimeter plus a visual double check on the back side of the plug (thanks to the skimpy open air construction of the flyer's J-box equivalent). On a side note, my multimeter showed 12V+ on both pins 2 and 3 with the switch in 24V mode (pin 2 being the red wire, pin 3 being a white wire). With the switch in 12V mode, only pin 2 reads 12V+. Someone speak up if that should read differently.

On my Flyer LE's FGG.0B.303 female LEMO: Pin 1: GND Pin 2: 12V+ Pin 3: 24V+ This means that if you are looking at the pins of the male connector, the pinout diagram would be counter clockwise. It is my understanding that the Archer is the same connector, but check with Terry West to be positive.

I can't answer your J-bracket question, because my arm does not require one. But I do have a 12" 5/8 post from Tiffen that scares the daylights out of me when I put a fully loaded rig on it. I have visions of it snapping and a sharp aluminum post with 20lbs+ of expensive weight stabbing me in the chest.. I have combined it with my D-bracket to get extra low (almost like a J-bracket). For some reason I feel more comfortable hanging a rig off of it than setting a rig on top of it..

I used the DSLR Docu kit with quick release adapter and rail extensions last time I shot with the 5DMKII. Here it is: http://store.zacuto.com/Zacuto-DSLR-Baseplate-Kits/ Production didn't have the foresight to get a lens support for the 70mm-200mm Canon L series telephoto, so I had to improvise with the Bartech rail bracket to provide some support. The length of the lens was too much for the camera body alone to support, and was causing jitter in the shot. Why they didn't ask for my input BEFOREHAND is beyond me. I guess they trusted Zacuto to send them everything they needed based on a 10min conversation about what camera they were using.