Kar Wai Ng

Likely going to need new bearings, internal gearing, or an overhaul with new internal motor. Should be checked out.

I quite like the 703 but find the blacks not as good as the 702 HB. The new OS 3 gives a lot more control over brightness, contrast, and gamma adjustments so it's helpful to push the blacks around sometimes. I now use a 702 OLED in studio and a 703 UB outdoors.

Neutrik RearTwist comes in dozens of variants for different cable diameters and conductors; NBTC75BLI4 is the part number matched for Canare L-1.5C2VS.

Neutrik RearTwist all the way.

Send it FedEx Freight/cargo...put it on a pallet.

Sold

Preston DM2 motor for sale with 19mm Jerry Hill bracket and 19-15mm collet. Standard 32 pitch/0.8 gear. Good condition overall and works perfectly. Asking USD $2000 or CAD $2500. Located in Toronto, Canada and can ship. Cool with paypal if buyer pays fee.

Sold

Price drop: $3300 for 1TX, 3RX Will also consider breaking it up: $1900 for 1TX and 1RX $2600 for 1TX and 2RX

Hi, selling my Teradek Bolt 300 kit, 1TX & 3RX, and all components are dual SDI/HDMI. Includes: 4x D-tap to Lemo 2-pin power cables 2x AC adapter 2x 1/4-20 to stand adapter Asking $3700 USD. Located in Toronto, Canada and can ship anywhere.

What is the boot-up time of the monitor? When you cut power to the monitor and restore power, do you have to push the power button to turn it back on (702 behaviour) or does it turn on by itself? Seems like the 'soft-toggle' behaviour is customary nowadays.

Pm'ed you.

Personally, I would find this amount of lag unbearably slow. But if it works for most of your scenarios and you got a good deal on it, then it seems like you didn't do too bad.

I thought this was pretty neat except you've got cables coming out the bottom, which is cable murder if you put the camera on the ground or on a box, for handheld, etc...just not a good area to have connectors stick out.

Motor and power are the same, but run/stop (blue Camera) is different.

A couple years ago I worked a few days on a feature that also shot on a frozen lake (in Northern Ontario), where temps were around -25C, and windchill brought it down to minus mid-thirties. The regular crew did three weeks on a frozen lake; I don't know how they did it. But the guys had these heated belts/blanket things that they wrapped on the back of video village monitors to keep them warm. Assistant LCD monitors had these insulated shade things to keep them warm; not sure if they put hot pockets in those too. Had to use old-school chalk slates; dry erase doesn't work. They had these Pelican sleds they put lens and camera cases in...just dragged along the ice (instead of carts). Block batteries were in insulated bags. Cold performance was a factor in lens selection; Fujinon zooms worked fine, I think Cookes seized up in testing. I was told a story of one day they were shooting in sideways-blizzard conditions; they put a b-glass in the mattebox, and when it got too obscured they'd pull it halfway through the take and keep shooting! Mike Heathcote was the B-camera/steadicam operator on that show; I'm sure he's got lots of stories to share...

The cold temperature freezes the liquid crystal in the LCD, and so they don't switch on and off quickly enough. You get a ghosty, laggy image. You start noticing it below 0C, and below -10C it's not really usable. Always a problem here in Canada. But OLEDs...that's the way to go in the cold! Obviously not daybright or appropriate for sleds, but for assistants...it's had no issues with temperature.

Put in a nut, and secure it with locktite or even a dab of epoxy (which I've done)...that eyebolt is never coming out again.

The start stop button can be quite difficult to actuate when wearing winter gloves. I've thought about attaching a rubber pencil eraser or something on top of it. I have no problem with the size of the screen; I'm not really looking at it anyway. Would rather not have battery power go towards a big screen, which, the bigger it is, the greater the vulnerability for damage anyway. Number one requests for me regarding Preston is firmware either in HU3 and/or MDR to talk to Alexa. And a ring in between "D" (3' min focus) and "E" (6' min focus) with 4' minimum focus to match the 24-290 optimo.

Sold!

I'm selling one of my Teradek Bolt Receiver units. (Bolt Pro SDI, first generation, hardware rev. G.) I own two of the newer fanless units and don't need more than two RX's, so hopefully this receiver can find a new home. It has the latest hardware revision (G), which is the same as in the fanless units, so it supports the fan control and timecode flag protocols. It has also been upgraded to the newest controller and radio firmware (controller v 3.3, radio 1=3.4.4, radio 2=4.2.28.77) Includes AC adapter and thumbscrew for mounting. Asking USD$400 plus shipping; located in Toronto, Canada. Canadian buyers: CAD equivalent, plus HST. Great opportunity to add an additional receiver to an existing Bolt setup.

Here in Toronto, it's an all-Preston city, and it seems to me that Preston is generally more popular in North America. If rentability is a concern, you'll definitely make your money back on your Preston, whereas if you try to rent out an Arri system, not many assistants are familiar with it. If it's a system only you will be using personally, then it's a different matter. Also because of the large Preston rental inventory among houses and personally owned gear, the availability of backups, extra motors, cables, etc should something fail makes much smarter to go with Preston. I love my HU3, but the WCU-4 has some nice features as well...it's lighter, has the vibration feedback, better ring illumination. They've also finally gotten the lens mapping functionality working now. I don't have much hope of either system being 'relevant' in terms of camera interfacing in the future. I don't know if it's a protocol disagreement between Preston and Arri, but the HU3/MDR3 still can't control shutter and framerate on any digital camera. You do have that benefit with the Arri system and an Alexa Plus.

Yeah, the 3.0 firmware is really buggy on the DP7. I've gone back to 2.0.4...the monitor simply not booting up properly just got too annoying after a week.

I tried testing today with the MON OUT output from an Alexa Plus (SUP 9.0.2) to a TVLogic 5.6 (VFM056), TVLogic 5.5 (VFM058) and a DP7 Pro OLED...all showed 3 frame delay fairly consistently. I wonder what the variable is that got you to get 2-frame delay...perhaps SUP version, or Alexa models...

I've had consistently excellent service (technical and warranty support) from Teradek, even making exceptions to replace an out-of-warranty Bolt receiver that bricked after a firmware update gone awry. Your experience sounds very atypical and it sucks that your impression of Teradek is marred by your frustrating experiences with their support department. I'm sure Mike will make it right.