Kar Wai Ng

The 12V accessory out on the Alexa is a Lemo part. The 24V RS outs are Fischer.

Yes, it's a FGG.0B.302.CLAD52, or CLAD42, depending on the diameter of the cable you want to use. I just ordered a bunch of them to make cables for the bolt. Can't confirm pinout yet though; until I get the Bolt in my hands to confirm I'm not soldering anything yet. On the Alexa, that port is 1: GND, 2: +12V, but on a Digital Bartech, which also uses a 2-pin 0B connector, 1 is power, 2 is GND.

Never had a problem running the BDR off the Alexa RS port, driving a Preston DM-1X. Even with fast racks (and the 1X is fast!) never had any issues. I wonder what the current draw is on the digital M1 motor? What onboard batteries are you using, the HC's? The current output on the RS ports are limited by the power source. HC's can do 10 amps, but the camera has to take that 14V power and upconvert to 24V anyway. Since the RS ports are limited to 2.2A total @ 24V, presumably that means the current draw could be something like 3.7A at 14V of peak current. Add that to the current the camera is drawing, plus maybe a monitor powered off the MON power, and it is not difficult to go over the current limit for an onboard batt. Are you running any other accessories off the RS ports? Normally we try to power the Alexa off a block batt, and use a power cable with a Y split at the end that gives you a RS breakout, so that any high current accessories bypass the camera internals entirely. This is my practice with any camera, not just Alexa.

Looking to buy one or two Preston DM2 motors. Would appreciate a shout if anyone is looking to sell any. Thanks

That's what I thought, thanks!

Couldn't find the answer to this using a search. Anyone know the pinout for the Panavision 12V accessory 3-pin lemo port/plug? It's the half moon FFA.1S lemo. Thanks

This part you're looking for? http://www.plcelectronicsolutions.com/products/Heden-Integrated-Bracket.html Is it a thread that's been stripped or something? If you can find a machinist they can probably repair it by installing a threaded insert or helicoil. I've never taken apart that bracket but it seems like a repairable issue for an hour's worth of time or less.

A little bit disappointed that it requires an external power supply instead of having a battery in it. Overcomplicates things and requires too many cables. Basically, with this solution, to start/stop the Epic with the BDR you now need: 1) BDR trigger box 2) 2-pin lemo power in 3) 4-pin lemo start/stop cable (Red start/stop) 4) Epic 00 Lemo to triple BNC breakout cable All for start/stop. And then of course the BDR, power cable, and motor cable. Too complicated. Much preferred would be a simple 4-pin lemo cable to the BDR, and BNC on the other end, with an inline box in the cable that holds its own battery.

I have a BDR with Preston DM-1X. 24V operation is definitely very zippy; takes full advantage of the speed of the 1X motor. It is just as zippy as a Preston MDR powering the DM-1X. The BDR with a DM-1X when powered off a D-tap (14-16V) is not as fast, perhaps a tad less fast than the original DM-1 motor on a Preston MDR. While the speed is still quite serviceable, I have built myself a little voltage booster box to give the BDR 24V if I need the speed when working with a Red or any other camera without 24V distribution. It is basically a Murata UWE-24/3-Q12PB-C in a 1550PBK Hammond enclosure box, with the requisite 2 pin Lemo ports for power in and out, plus a LED display for input voltage. The enclosure is the same footprint as the BDR so I just stack the two together with velcro.

Do you have numbers for current draw for Preston motors with the BDR?

I just bought myself a Bartech with the digital receiver and Preston motor. The BDR and handset and cables would cost you far less than $5k. I chose to go the digital route because it future proofs my investment...if in the (distant) future I want to upgrade to a Preston, I've already got the motor and motor cables! Plus, I'd still have the Bartech as a backup.

It's a 5-pin Fischer. See here: http://www.slcine.com/html/connector.pdf Alternately, you could trigger using the 11-pin Fischer. Triggering is by connecting the remote run pin with the 12V pin. On the 5-pin Fischer, it's pins 2 and 5, on the 11-pin Fischer, it's 7 and 11. It's probably a momentary connection, but that doesn't factor in your cable-making...just try both momentary and continuous settings on your Bartech handunit and see which works.

After looking in the catalogue, it looks like if the original straight connector as stated in the other thread is S 105 Z087-130+, then the right-angle version pointing to the right would be WSO 105 Z087-130 -3H. WSO denotes a right-angle body style, the -3H suffix denotes a 3 o'clock orientation.

http://www.steadicamforum.com/index.php?showtopic=6535 There are some part numbers in that thread that might get you on the right track to finding the right-angle version in the Fischer catalogue. http://www.fischerconnectors.com/pdf/catalogue/en/Core_Series_Catalogue_v1.pdf

I bought a bunch of knobs from JW Winco (jwwinco.com) and found their service to be excellent. They have a huge selection of adjustable handles too (what we call 'Kipp' handles).

Any plans on selling these rings? I'm sure a lot of people would be interested in buying these. As a camera assistant I love the snap on rings for the Preston HU3, but I always use strips of tape with the Bartech remote. Hard rings would be wonderful.