Jess Haas SOC

I've got one I'm contemplating letting go. How much is it worth to you?

In my experience charge problems have usually been communications issues between the charger and battery caused by dirty or messed up pins on the charger. Try cleaning them with a pencil eraser and make sure the two spring loaded ones have full range of motion.

Older 2401 chargers can not charge Dionics without a firmware update. The update chip is $75 from Ritter. Anton Bauer doesn't support them anymore and no longer has the firmware updates.

How much you want for it?

I mainly use them to power my monitor so can live with a bit of reduced capacity but i know at some point they will start to crap out entirely. At what point have you found the need to recell your HCs? At what amphour reading as given by an Anton Bauer charger test run? Cycle counts or age would also be useful. Thanks, Jess Haas, SOC

Try changing the SDI output format on the mini. Depending on the format you are shooting the 2nd BNC might be limited on what it can be set to. Did you try swapping out BNC cables?

Damn,I saw the title and was getting ready to sell you my PRO vest for $10k

Microwave MDR-1 has a built in voltage booster so has no problem with 12v. Only the older UHF MDR-1 needs the converter box.

The camera cables are a different connector and pinout on the MDR1. Power and motor connectors are the same. MDR1 doesn't have torque settings and has to recalibrate after losing power.

But then we won't get 3 more pages of me and Alan saying the same thing over and over again..... ;-)

Just to be clear the digital bartech cannot be used to control your own focus. Only the analogue one has the control port where the g-zoom or bartech thumbwheel connect. I have an analogue for sale in the marketplace. Make me an offer if your interested.

This is a great kit that has served me very well. Includes some unique extras such as a larger gear for the motor and 15mm rod mount for the receiver. Iocated in LA area but I can ship. Includes motor cable and p-tap power cable. Make me an offer. -Jess Haas, SOC

Can you not just flip monitors? When I go low mode my monitor is already upside down and the ACs just flip the monitors at village. Most village monitor mounts allow for this.

I never said there wasn't a problem with the p-tap on the cinelive. It should not be used in 24v mode. Yes you can fix the problem with all sorts of circuitry or you can do what my sled and Tiffens sleds do and not pull 12v from the second battery. You are the one telling me I am incorrect but if your 12v and 24v lines share a negative then there is no problem. End of story. If both devices have their BNCs connected to this same negative even if one runs at 12v and the other at 24v then there is no voltage potential between the BNC shields because they are tied together. Even the 12/24v lemos on most rigs use a single pin for ground for both voltages.

In a previous post in this thread I mentioned my Bolt being fried. Turns out the insulation to the postive wire in my Anton Bauer to XLR adapter (AB SO-XLR) had broken down and was energizing the casing of the XLR plug causing current to flow and bad things to happen.

From their video it looks like the p-tap at the base is wired to the second battery in the series. They are getting exactly the results I would expect in that situation. Also powering from the d-tap on the battery plate for the second battery in the series would have the same result. My "anecdotal evidence" was to show that when wired properly 12 and 24v from only two batteries is not a problem and no fancy voltage converters, etc are necessary. It surprises me that the pro is wired that way. Nothing should pull from the second battery for 12v when in 24v because as they have seen it can fry things.

But the 12v and 24v lines never come in contact with each other. Its not like a 24v device runs its SDI line at line voltage or anything. They both run to SDI spec. I've been running 24v and 12v power this way for 10 years with zero problems. My monitor has always been 12v. Not as much as a spark on the BNC.

What you describe happens if you pull 12v from the second battery in the series but if you pull it from the first then the 12v and 24v lines are sharing a ground so there should be no voltage potential between properly grounded BNC terminals of sled powered components. I would assume that most sleds are wired this way. Mine is and I have had zero problems with using 2 12v batteries to supply both 12 and 24v.

Still available. Come and get it before I put it up on eBay.

It seems that New Balance has discontinued a lot of shoes as they move more manufacturing overseas. They no longer make a shoe that fits my feet properly and they also discontinued their insoles that I like. Any recommendations for a shoe with a wide toe box available in wide sizes?

The sparks I have seen have all been caused by wiring faults or floating grounds. If you are powering two devices from separate power sources and the grounds aren't tied together or to earth ground it is possible for one of them to have some current build up on the ground line. When you connect them with a BNC the current jumps to ground and you see a spark. I used to see this a lot more often with CRT monitors for whatever reason. If you have a device with a faulty ground power connection current can decide to flow over the ground line of the BNC instead of your power cable. This is what usually frys SDI boards of devices as the SDI board was not designed to handle that kind of current. Also if insulation breaks down and non grounded metal surfaces become energized they will spark to ground. I had that happen with my Anton Bauer SO-XLR plate where the metal bodied XLR connector started sparking with things. -Jess

What you describe happens if you pull 12v from the second battery in the series but if you pull it from the first then the 12v and 24v lines are sharing a ground so there should be no voltage potential between properly grounded BNC terminals of sled powered components.

When it costs them more money to keep me longer it helps avoid the sillyness of things like keeping me around until hour 12 when my last shot was done before lunch. Why not keep you around "just in case" if its not costing them anything? My time is valuable to me, I don't like wasting it unnecessarily.

I am not as against "half day" rates as most but the important thing is to charge properly for them. Try calling a rental house and asking to rent a camera for half a day. They will get a good laugh out of that. So full rental rate and if its a short day I usually bump my hourly up a little to make it worth my while. Don't just agree to a half day, make sure to define what that means, if its a 6 hour minimum or whatever. Your billing hourly so when it goes longer they are paying you for that, not just the "half day rate." I am happy to do 8 and occasionaly even 6 hour minimums. I did a TV show recently where a lot of the days were 8 hours. I actually got to see my son in the morning then was home for dinner with the family before he went to bed. Getting to have a normal schedule was amazing. Why should we discourage productions from having reasonable hours by having long minimums? As an industry we need to do everything we can to move towards more reasonable working conditions. Also when jobs arent wanting to pay your rate I find it often helps to suggest that if they need to save money they can keep you for a shorter number of hours. They want you to give on your day rate so they need to be willing to give as well, but again make sure to define the hourly rate as that 8 hour day can quickly turn into 14..... -Jess Haas, SOC

Similar question, is it longer than a standard pro handle?