Jess Haas SOC

Any way to only overlay a portion of the incoming composite signal? If you could somehow just overlay the electronic level image it wouldn't necessarily need to be transparent. I know its a long shot, just trying to help! :-) I know that there are very inexpensive devices available that can do vga->composite. Any way to tap out of the signal going to the LCD at some point and send it to something like that? I don't know if any of them would support the correct resolutions though.... What I meant was making it to where it could survive if it was accidentally put completely underwater for a brief moment. What I had in mind was for use when the camera is underwater or at the surface in an underwater case with a video cable coming out, having a monitor that was suitable for someone to stand in the water with it in their hands above the water. Basically something that doesn't mind getting splashed and that could survive an accidental drop. This is totally non steadicam related and probably asking far too much :-) Now if you could make a version that was completely submersible with waterproof connectors I have a completely different market to talk to you about :-) An underwater housing for the monitor would probably be a much more realistic option. ~Jess

Weatherproofing the monitor as you mentioned before would be a really nice feature. Of course it would require closing up the vent holes so you need to make sure that overheating does not become a problem even in 100degree weather. You already have a metal case so if it can act as enough of a heatsink that could solve that problem. If you did this you would probably need to move the connectors to the bottom of the monitor. You should have the steadicam connectors there anyway. If the monitor has a flip function(which it should), and threaded holes on the top and bottom I don't see any reason why it couldn't operate in either orientation anyway. Lemo actually makes waterproof connectors, I don't know if they are compatible with their other connectors or not though. I just want something that can survive in the rain without a rain cover. If this ups the price much it probably isn't worh it. If you can make it able to survive a quick dunk in a pool that would be useful for me as I also do underwater work and that would make it a good top side monitor for that. Another thing that I have never scene a monitor have but would be useful for on camera work is a mounting hole on the side. This can make mounting easier in some situations without needing as crazy of an arm setup. Be careful about making everyone happy though. If you do figure out how to make the perfect monitor that does everything we want it may end up costing too much for any of us to afford! :-) ~Jess

No clue, and I personally don't need it, but I have heard people say they want it to handle 24volt power, and if you are running 14.4 volt batteries it can get that hot. My Trimpacks hot off the charger are 17.2volts. Multimeters can vary a bit but I am measuring with a high quality fluke meter that I trust. I personally don't really see a need for running off of 24 volt power. It simply needs to be able to handle a 14.4v battery hot off the charger which it sounds like it already does. I would assume that it atleast has some sort of linear regulator for the electronics already built in. I have modified a number of LCDs for my own purposes and when I have taken them apart they have all had a regulator that could handle my batteries no problem. If it is a linear regulator it might not be able to handle that high of voltage for too long due to extra heat output, but luckily that voltage quickly drops to a more reasonable one. One concern I have is whether the higher voltages are overdriving the backlight and whether this is decreasing its life? The XLR power connector should be a male 4 pin XLR. A good sturdy panel mount connector will take a whole lot more abuse than the connector you are currently using. Standard 4pin "XLR" Pin 1 = GND Pin 4 = +12 volts Is there any way to overlay a composite signal onto an HD one? If so that could be a solution for using the analogue digital levels that are out there. The easier way to implement a digital level might be through LEDs on the case instead of overlaying it on the screen. I don't know if this would be a suitable option as I have never used one. Another feature that would be really nice but I have never actually seen in a monitor is a built in downconverter. This would deal with the fact that no one has an HD video transmitter and set your monitor apart from everything else on the market. This is a wishlist of course, although if you can find the right components this is one thing that might not be as difficult as it sounds. ~Jess

Most people want a little weight because they are used to the weight of their old CRT monitors. I am actually growing to like a lite monitor because it allows me to add a battery for weight when I want it, or keep the rig as light as possible when I don't. I personally don't mind any weight that you add in order to make it more durable, but wouldn't want you adding weight over what it is now simply for the sake of adding weight. The lemo or hirose should allow for the input of composite video as well as power. A tally light would be another useful future for this monitor which would be very simple and cheap to add. Tiffen uses an 8-pin lemo on the Ultra2 that connects composite video, power and tally. If you want a reference for what connectors and pin configuration they are using check out: http://www.steadicam.com/images/content/U2...uts_Jumpers.pdf Different sleds will have different connections but you don't need to provide all of them on the Monitor because people can always use a cable with a different connector on each side. In addition to the Lemo and/or Hirose you should provide a 4-pin XLR connector for power. This is a very standard connector and will allow people to also use the monitor off the sled or come up with a power solution in case of cable or connector problems. The voltage regulator in the monitor needs to atleast be able to handle voltages as high as 17volts, 34 volts would be even better. Most people use 14.4volt batteries that I have seen get as high as 17volts when hot off the charger. They use two of them for "24volt" power. Would it be possible to also provide a lower cost non ultrabright version of the steadicam monitor? I think there might be a market there for lower end steadicam users who would want something more in line with the price you are offering your current monitor for but would want the other steadicam specific features. ~Jess

You also might want to check these guys out: http://www.globalmediapro.com/ They look like the same stuff for less money. I have heard that they are the supplier for a lot of retailers. I have heard good things about their batteries but havn't ordered from them myself. ~Jess

I have already moved the monitor out further, which is why I can get it to balance with one battery sucked all the way in. That works fine with very light cameras, but I lost a lot of weight at the bottom of my sled and for heavier cameras I like a little extra weight to keep the sled from getting too long. ~Jess

I have actually been flying with my LCD for a little while now but I just purchased 3 AB plates on ebay for $50 so I am trying to decide on how I want to design my permanent solution. As is the rig will actually balance if I suck the battery all the way in to the post. This has been convenient on a few occasions where I was flying the HVX for long periods of time as I didn't have to add any additional weight to the camera (it already had 2 big audio receivers, a comtec and my video transmitter). With the CRT I would have had a lot of post above the gymbal with the same setup. This setup is not ideal for larger cameras so I have added a 1 pound scuba weight to the front of the rods on my bottom stage. Now that I have the AB plates I am going to replace the weight with an AB plate. I also think I am going to buy some lithium ion batteries which are lighter than my trimpacks. By mixing them with the trimpacks I should have a wide variety of weight distribution options depending on what camera I am flying and how I want to fly it. I should be able to get my rig extremely light for flying small cameras without having to add additional weight or go to a 3 or 4 battery setup for heavier cameras. ~Jess

Stop cutting back to the same films. It makes it look like you are trying to pad your reel. Try to cut it down to about one minute of the best footage. As is it looks like you have shot nothing but student films. Whether that is the case or not, if you can minimize that feel it may help it to look more professional. ~Jess

I am thinking of adding some diodes to my sled. I am thinking that the slight decrease in voltage would actually be helpful with certain cameras, and that it will allow me to mix the lithium ion batteries I plan on buying with the trimpacks that I currently have. If they will fit I am thinking of adding the diodes inside of the AB mount. Is this a suitable place for them and what diodes should I use? They are mounted to an aluminum plate so I figure that this will function as a heat sync if necessary. My sled currently has 2 AB battery mounts that can be run in series, parallel, or power the camera and accessories separately. I am thinking of adding a 3rd and maybe even a 4th battery mount which could be hooked up in various ways. Will the diodes allow me to safely mix battery types and how should they be used together? I have seen some people say that they use 2 Lithium ion batteries with a single Nicad to allow them to draw more current when running at 24v. Is putting a single Nicad in parallel with one of the lithium ions enough? Since the lithium ions are run in series wouldn't I need a nicad in parallel with each of the lithium ions? What about running a lithium ion battery in series with a trimpack for 24v? Is it a bad idea? I know that the diode should allow me to run them in parallel for 12v. Is it a bad idea to do that without the diode? Will the diodes waste much power? If they shorten the battery life much then they might not be worthwhile. Thanks, Jess

I recently replaced the broken CRT on my rig with a very light LCD monitor. I see that most people use a battery on the back of the monitor to add weight. I have the ability to either add it there or on the bottom of the sled. It seems like the bottom of the sled would be a better option since it would require less weight to have the same effect. Is there any fault in my logic? Will adding weight at the bottom/in front of the post cause problems with dynamic balance? ~Jess

Quicktime should be able to open the vob files and atleast the pro version should be able to save in various formats. I would assume that Premiere could open a quicktime file but I could be wrong.... ~Jess

If you want lighter batteries in either AB or V-Mount you can always go with the global media pro batteries. They have AB mount lithium ion batteries starting at just over a pound. I havn't used them myself but I am planing on ordering some to replace my trimpacks at some point. They have weight specs and stuff on their website: http://www.globalmediapro.com/do/product/1141 ~Jess

Instead would it be possible to stick the flyer vest's socket block on the new vest? ~Jess

Do you eat meat? Most people who hunt do it for both of those reasons. They could just go to the grocery store and buy meat, but they enjoy hunting for it themselves some of the time. Which myself and others believe is actually more humane for the animals involved than buying it at the grocery store. I don't see how killing animals is any more morally objectionable than having someone else kill it for you. The later doesn't make you any less responsible for the animals death and I personally think it says a lot about a person if they can't stomach the idea of animals being killed so they have other people do it for them and try to ignore the fact that what they were eating was ever alive. I don't hunt, but I have no problem with people that do as long as they do it in a responsible manner. ~Jess

Now you have guilted me in to it. For the sake of full disclosure I feel that I must admit that I am about to go get some barbecue. A cow who previously wandered a ranch in Texas, a pig and some potatoes were slaughtered for the sole purpose of making something tasty for me to eat. Luckily in Texas we have so much space that most of the beef is the free range grass fed variety because thats the easiest and cheapest way to do it. I try to get organic meat when I can but that can be a tough thing to do sometimes. I totally understand why people are vegetarians and actually agree with PETA on a lot of things, but I like my meat too much to ever be anything but a "Texas Vegetarian" (the only meat they eat is barbecue). I was born and raised in Texas after all. All this talk is making me even hungrier so I am off to eat some animals. If only the barbecue place by my house had venison... ~Jess

Afton, I think you may need an intervention ;-) That would be awesome :-) As long as you don't eat meat then I can understand that opinion. Commercial feed lots, etc. are much more cruel than hunting wild animals. It seems like when you buy meet these days they do everything possible to hide the fact that it was once an animal. If you are going to eat meat I think it is a good idea to have some connection with where it comes from. Just my opinion though. Did you hear that Rob Zombie recorded a message for PETA? Apparently he thinks the way Turkeys are treated is cruel so he gave up eating them. Not exactly what you expect from this face: http://www.edmonds.wednet.edu/mths/ClassAc...ob%20Zombie.gif ~Jess

If you want a PeeWee then Chapman would be the logical answer. In California: North Hollywood: 12950 Raymer Street North Hollywood, California 91605 TOLL FREE: (888) 88 DOLLY (883-6559) or (818) 764-6726 TOLL FREE FAX: (888) 50 CRANE (502-7263) or (818) 764-2728 ~Jess

Where do I sign up? While I doubt the pay is very good they already know how to picket so we should be able to take care of that in no time. ~Jess

I wouldn't necessarily expect using a steadicam to make anything any less tiring, but it will definitely allow you to get smoother shots. Although with a small camera and a pilot or flyer I wouldn't think you would have too much trouble flying for extended periods of time after your body gets used to it. One thing that you might want to consider when it comes to shooting weddings, etc... is how people will react to it. People expect to see the camera, tripod, etc... But if you breakout a steadicam I would expect a lot more people to want to talk to you about what you are doing which could negatively impact your ability to document the occasion. Don't know if this would actually be a problem or not, but it is definitely something to consider. Of course it would make you one of the coolest looking wedding videographers they have ever seen. ~Jess

This is something I recently started doing as well. I shot some underwater footage for a scene and it ended up having to be reshot because they had to recast an actor. It was a super low budget feature and they were already way over budget so they were begging me to cut my rental rate for the second day. I eventually decided to be a nice guy and give them a discount so I added a discount line to the invoice. It made me feel much better about the whole thing because it keeps me from looking cheap and it caused them to realize that I was doing them a favor. I was even thanked for it later. I also feel like it keeps people from thinking they can demand that low of a rate in the future when they have the money to pay the full rate. ~Jess

I don't have the answer to your question, but please do let me know how this goes as I have a feeling I will be making up some of my own power cables to run the red off my sled in the near future. What are you doing for a monitor? I don't think the Red has standard def out. I have thought about mounting the Red monitor on my sled but I havn't yet looked into what connectors it and the camera have so don't know what it would take to run the wiring through my post. ~Jess

Don't know what your budget is but the Steadicam Pilot would probably do what you want. Looks like a sweet little rig for the type of work you are planning. Of course the gear is only a small part of the equation, you will need practice to get good results. ~Jess

I am not feeling it yet but if the strike lasts very long I am sure that I will. Most of the stuff I work on won't be directly effected but if the strike lasts for very long the more experienced guys who are losing jobs because of it will start taking jobs that I would otherwise be getting. Chances are the strike will be over before it really has a chance to effect me. No hard feelings even if it has an effect. Sometimes the unions need to take a stand. ~Jess

I figured someone would say that :-) I am new at this whole thing and I need the practice so I have to admit I actually wanted to do low mode. Not doing the low mode also meant that we didn't get shots that I know they really wanted to get. Of course a lot of that was because I had to go try to shoot some underwater shots for the film before it got too late. Went from steadicam to playing in the water. What a tough job :-) ~Jess

Just wanted to say thanks one more time. The shoot went very well thanks to your advice and the ability for me to get the camera to play with the day before. the 1in 1/4-20 machine screw was exactly what I needed for low mode. Unfortunately we didn't have time to do low mode on the shoot but it worked out well when I tested it before hand and it was helpful to be ready to do a quick switch. The camera was setup with onboard battery, Canon 8-64 zoom lens and a clip on matt box. The zoom and on board battery definitely added a bit of weight to the package which made smooth flying much easier than with the video cameras I have been using lately. I don't know what the exact weight was but it definitely seemed to be in the sweet spot for me at the moment. Light enough to fly without having to take much in the way of breaks but heavy enough to fly smoothly. ~Jess