Jess Haas SOC

There was someone on the forum who made up some yokes for them. Should be able to find the thread if you do a search. Ive got one and it works great

I havent tried it on a pro sled but on my non pro sled I was able to tape a thin bnc to the coily cable and solder it to the bncs in my upper and lower junction boxes. In mine I have a single bnc junction near the top for dissasembly. Might make taking things apart tricky but its cheap because you dont have to replace the coily cable or lemos.

Being analog doesn't make it an NTSC downconverter. You can be in the analogue world and still have HD(or atleast something higher than NTSC) resolution. I see no practical significance to whether the guts handle things in an analogue or digital world. That said I don't know what the resolution of it will be, but sounds like better than NTSC.

The best setup I have used was a viewfactor cage with an anton bauer mount on the rods and an AB hotswap with two batteries on it for weight. I am currently building something similar for my t2i. Unfortunately my machinist(me) also never seems to have the time to finish such projects.

It isn't specifically a Pro issue. Not sure exactly how the MK-V is wired but the reason it works for you is probably because only one of the two battery plates involved in running 2 batteries in series for 24v will show this exact problem. There are other concerns when doing this though. For instance when you remove the battery from the back of the boxx and still have a battery on the other plate the boxx may be getting reverse polarity power while the Alexa gets the 12ish volts from your other battery but with all of the current running through the boxx. Weather this hurts anything depends on the design of the Alexa and the Boxx. If running in a 3 battery configuration putting the Boxx on the 12v accessory power battery should be perfectly safe. ~Jess

When you run two batteries in series and then run a twelve volt accessory off of the "top battery" you end up with different devices running with grounds at different potentials(if you connect a meter to both grounds it will read the voltage of one of your batteries when you want it to read 0). So if you connect the grounds bad things can happen such as shorting one of your batteries and your accessory getting 24volts instead of 12. Connecting the BNC is connecting the grounds together. ~Jess

You want antennas that are specifically for 5.8ghz not 2.4

The problem is that there are more and more "operators" every day now and fewer and fewer real paying jobs. Over time things might normalize a bit but I don't think things are ever really going to go back to the way they were in "the past." Not sure what the solution is but having the union establish a minimum will keep the undercutting from getting too bad and give less incentive to hire the guy with no experience who is willing to work for as little as possible. Even if that happened it would still be up to us as a group to band together to keep rates at a reasonable level.

How about "Roll Camera" or "Rolling." What is rolling again?

Sadly it seems like most of the coatings only make matters worse making it completely unviewable when you get sun or other bright reflection on it . While less protected it seems to me that screens that give you the bare LCD screen instead of glass+anti-reflective coating have the best daylight viewability. The OLEDs that showed up at the last daylight monitor shootout had horrible daylight viewability but my phone which has an OLED screen gives me great hope for the technology. It looks great even in direct sun and can be viewed from any angle. Now we just need it with a bigger screen in the right formfactor and with the right features. ~Jess

First I would try two strap wrenches to avoid making them look like someone has been teething on them.

I am sure I could probably get by flying with a magliner or yaeger most of the time but I don't really want to rely on not running into that one asshole who won't let me home with my cart. If they can turn it around quick enough and the price is right a custom yaeger might be the answer. I really would like to stay with the sled in over the cart design anyway. ~Jess

I have a feature out of town and I am trying to figure out what to do about a cart. Something I could check on Southwest would be ideal. I like my current custom built cart but even collapsed it is going to be too big and heavy to check as luggage and looks like with UPS it would be something like $200 each way. Southwest says weight has to be under 100 pounds and W+L+H have to equal 80inches or less. -A Yaeger Junior cart seems perfect for travel but according to their website it is a half inch too big. -I like the general design of backstages steadicam cart but according to their catalog it weighs 120 pounds. -Also looks like the Magliner / Filmtools carts are over 80 inches. Is anyone flying with their cart? Should I just give up on the idea of a real Steadicam cart that I can fly with? ~Jess

Does it only have holes in the center or does it have the offset holes as well? When not on steadicam will I be able to mount the bridge plate to this or will we need to remove it and put the Arri bridge plate adapter back on? Thanks, Jess

But the clothes are just padding for the gear! I have used the southwest media rate a lot. The person at the counter hardly ever knows it exists but there boss sometimes does. I take a copy of the policy from their webpage with me and it usually solves the problem. I am stubborn so I have never not gotten it but I have had to argue a few times, although flying out of LA I have never even had to say a word, they simply knew not to charge for oversize, overweight equipment cases. ~Jess

They first told me it would be ready the beginning of 2008 so more like 4 and a half years.....

I knew it had some problems but shocking people seems rather serious.....

I thought you were holding out until they agreed to hold all meetings at Jumbos?

The bag with the batteries in it will most likely be searched so don't put them through the xray in a bag with a whole lot of stuff because it will all be pulled out. Sometimes they look at my bartech sometimes they don't. One brilliant TSA lady was convinced I was lieing to her about what it was and had a real attitude about it but couldn't come up with an actual reason to not let me through security with it and eventually let me through. Ironically this was domestic security coming back from an international trip where I had already cleared multiple layers of TSA, foreign security and customs without it even getting a second glance. I have had TSA not let me through security because of a little bit of grease on my arm. I had to go to the bathroom and clean it up because they "couldn't let me through with a liquid or gel." As long as something will fit through the xray TSA doesn't really seem to care how much stuff you are carrying on. The airlines might give you shit for things being too big or having too much stuff but at that point will usually just make you gate check it which doesn't cost you any money. ~Jess

It uses the same basic design as my DSLR cables: http://www.steadicamforum.com/index.php?showtopic=15703&st=0&p=74513 ~Jess

That connector appears to be a bit of a dead end. Apparently since it is meant to be used with a remote paintbox when you connect to it it disables a number of on camera controls such as gain, whiteblance, picture profile, etc.... I do have a working start/stop cable using the IR port, I just need a little more time with the camera to work out some kinks. Does anyone in the LA area have one I can use (preferaby on the west side)? Thanks, Jess

If your sled comes with a working monitor I would wait on upgrading it. Also don't worry about dynamic balance. If the sled works then spend time using it before you go changing things otherwise you won't know what your needs really are. That said the Marshall monitor is great especially for the price. Ditch the servos and use either an optical encoder(like current digital focus motors) or a decent potentiometer(like analog focus motors). The servos seem like they will make life easier but everyone who tries this seems to ditch them in the end so save yourself some time. If there is anyway you can I highly recommend buying a used bartech system instead of making your own. A wireless follow focus is one of those things that seems simple but always seems to turn into a much bigger project with mostly questionable results. Screw engineering concerns, go with a standard. Turn that square rail down to a 15mm rod (you can keep part of it square for mounting to the camera). When an idiot AC sets your wireless follow focus down on the ground and it gets run over by a truck you need to be able to mount someone elses wireless follow focus to your camera in a hurry. ~Jess

Sony TU-1041U TV Tuner. Runs off of AC or DC Via a 4pin XLR or NP1 battery. Works great. Asking $50 plus shipping. ~Jess

My Modulus 2000 gave up the ghost a while back. Some component seems to have failed causing it to draw too much power which melted the wire going between the power connector and the switch. If you have the means to fix this or have a need for the parts then make me an offer. ~Jess p.s. If you know what components might need to be replaced but don't want to bother then let me know and I might take a shot at fixing it myself.

This has been on my to-do list for a while now. Even have some of the parts in my shop.