William Demeritt

Just looking at the enclosure and the drives they're advertising, I think it would be worth seeing if other types of hard drives work. The connections are SATA connections, so any 2.5" SATA hard drive will work. 500gb SATA 2.5" drive on Newegg for $60-70. SSD is the drive du jour, and for on-camera solutions, solid state is perfect. However, for us, traditional platter hard drives should work. As for offloading the footage, look on Newegg or Frys for a toaster dock with USB, FireWire or eSATA connections. They're <$50. For mounting, good old Velcro would probably work. Cool device!

While at NAB today, I came across a product that seemed fairly exciting, and I may try to test out this monitor for our purposes: http://www.bon.co.kr/bonsub/BOND7.html Of course, with the Cinetronic monitor coming out soon at 6.5" and bright as all hell, I thought of this as a versatile possibility for the lower cost market? Product specs include: - Transflective screen at 400 nits (again, not great, but transflective coating could make it surprisingly strong) - Built in format conversion (HDMI to HD-SDI and HD-SDI to HDMI... I know I know, HDMI is the devil, but it's an OPTION) - 7v-36v power draw - screen resolution of 1024x600 (by my calculation, 7" monitor at 1024x600 ~ 169 pixels per inch) - HD recording with H.264 encoding at 1280x720x30p. Now have a monitor that also records to 32GB max SD cards for instant playback. - Price: $2400 (according to the gentlemen at the Bon booth anyway... Half that of the Cinetronic). What are the thoughts and concerns?

After weight training for a few years, I kept the habit of eating protein shakes throughout the day, which helps slow down the crafty visits. 4 shakes during my day, 2 on set 2-3 hours before lunch and another 2-3 hours before wrap. I drink the Cytosport whey protein shakes which are 140 calories at 27g of protein plus other amino acids. You're already lifting weight all day, why not drink something that actively helps your body rebuild stronger? The good side effect is that for 30-60 minutes after you drink it, you're not hungry.

Tiffen thing is Monday night I believe. I'm also planning on coming out for Monday and leaving Tuesday (although everything is flexible). Daniel, as my favorite video in the tributes to Dan Kneece compilation, I must shake your hand. Also, I'm a Florida escapee.

In case anyone was wondering, here's my progress: I'm currently moving this week into a new apartment, so I've had to halt work on it for a few days. However, last Tuesday, I had some other Steadicam ops over to my place to show off my work so far. I have a power cable built to convert 12v to 5v but still sustain the 3amp draw on the device. Runs off my PRO2 Aux power. As a test, I set up my iPad 2 to transmit The Dark Knight from the transmitter (powered off my sled) to my TV in the living room. Everyone saw me transmit upwards of 40 feet at 1080p through a few human heads and a glass window. That was just using the device as it ships (with the stock PCB antenna). I've begun soldering down pigtails to the PCB to augment and raise up the transmit dBi (4-5 dBi per antenna, 4 antenna total). When I'm done, it'll have 4 external antenna. I plan to do a test at Clairmont Camera sometime next week to test my antennas, and see what my output looks like. Depending on the transmit power and capability, I am also going to start testing power amplifiers to augment the RF output power at the transmitter. I need to read up on FCC limitations on the 4.9-5.9Ghz band.

Another HD transmitter that uses compression before transmission. I wonder what the latency looks like?

A couple weeks ago, I went in to GPI to buy the mythical 12v only jumper block. I actually stopped by on my way to set, hoping to buy it quickly. I asked if they hads one to sell me, and discovered they had none in inventory. Jack offered to wire me up one, and expecting a bad reply I asked how long it would take. "15 minutes". "I'll take it!!!". Turns out his estimate was way off. I was walking out, jumper in hand, in less than 10 minutes later. Jumper block powered a RED all day with no problems.

Michael: it's below 1ms delay. I got mine for $220 on Amazon.

My purpose in testing this device is to see if I can bring it up to a standard whereby I can use it as a solution on a pro set. If I can crack open a $200 plastic box, add a few additional wires and place it back into a box that I design, then why the objection? Keep in mind, while this device is consumer, the chip that makes it go boom is made by the same company who makes the heart of the CamWave: AMIMON. I agree with you wholeheartedly about the HDMI connector, but that seems like a small hurdle to leap if it the result is a <$2,000 wireless HD solution. Like I said, Decimator 2 ($500) on my sled and an AJA HA-5 ($500) with the Air Sync HD ($200), and you've officially connected HD-SDI to HD-SDI over BNC. All that's left is building a container on both ends. Michael has already tested it, and it sounds like movement isn't a problem. The problems to overcome currently are: 1) additional antenna, and 2) power amplification. #1: Additional antenna. Inside the AirSync HD, the PCB has 5 MC-card female connectors for antenna: 1 UPLINK and 4 additional receptacles. For this device, they only added an antenna to the UPLINK connector. Even the white papers indicate the other 4 antennas are supported to add signal strength, adding on the OFDM-MIMO device. #2: power amplification. This, I'll start looking into after I handle the antenna issues. Moral of the story: this box seems to be using a mere fraction of it's total potential.

I'll do anything, just give me more free hats!

We've all made bad decisions, and we've all learned from them. Others will give some ideas, but here's my hardest learned: no matter how appealing the prices look, stay away from the Circus Circus. Oh, and strippers don't actually like you...

I meant use the 720p BNC port on the RED? And yes, I think what James suggests is worth looking into. Once I do my initial tests, I want to crack open the TX box and determine the antenna's capabilities and opportunities for upgrade.

What was your test procedure? Did you test 720p and 1080i against 1080p? How did it perform in "WIDE" mode? I'm hoping to do some tests with it still, I refuse to abandon hope!

Everything looks cool, except there's a 5D in there! :P No, seriously, looks like the best treatment I've ever seen a 5D get. What all do you have in there? I think I see an AJA HI5 (HDMI to BNC)? The cage looks cool. I personally just fly it upside down and tell them to flip it in post.

Understandable. I probably could have saved some time by going to someone else here in LA, but half the fun is wiring this stuff myself! I'll post my findings in a few days.

I feel like I have a better chance of understanding Chinese metaphysics than the LEMO model numbering system. Honestly, I just want a simple thing (iPhone app, PDF doc, java script, widget, Kelly wheel-equivalent) where I put in a LEMO model number, and it immediately tells me: - That's a receptacle, 4 pins, made of this material - Here's all the plug models that will insert into that receptacle. And vice versa (feed it a plug, and it tells you what receptacle works with it).

I didn't even use a code; I just clicked the "I've attended NAB previously" and used the account I've used before to attend. Immediately offered me free access to the exhibits.

Michael, I just picked that exact box up a week ago, going to some testing with it later this week. Considering the specs, I think it has a lot of promise, but you'll need some additional pieces to make it work in our world. I've already got a Decimator2, so HD-SDI to HDMI isn't a problem. HDMI back to HD-SDI over BNC (since most field monitors don't have HDMI) is one thing, but the AJA HA5 should remedy that problem. I'm hoping to get into Clairmont in the next few days and do some testing/playing around, I'll be sure to post my findings. Hopefully they'll have a RED I can toy around with... As for powering the device from your sled, I have a spare AUX PWR cable (the 2-pin hermaphrodite LEMO cable) which I'm going to rewire personally. The device requires 5V @ 3amps, so I've got a 12/24v -> 5v transformer coming in a week or two that will support that kind of power. I plan to just solder it in line with the cable I already have, and then connecting the proper DC power plug on the other end.

The catalog is easily found on the mouser.com website when looking at the product page for any LEMO connector. Still trying to understand the naming convention though.

Curious to see these photos?

While I really love my standard def green screen PRO monitor, the rate at which my battery drains is a nuisance. Considering the intelligent display of the Anton Bauer batteries are opposite of me (normal operating), I set out to find a proper voltmeter. However, buying one is no fun, as it presents minimal opportunities to purchase new tools and subsequently burn yourself on a 2400 butane torch (so much for ever playing the violin). Regardless, I built this using a few links people offered on the forum and numerous trips to Fry's (that place is DANGEROUS). Basic operation: left and right switch. LEFT switch UP: LCD displays current voltage of MONITOR battery. LEFT switch DOWN: activates the RIGHT SWITCH. RIGHT switch UP: LCD displays current voltage of AUX battery. RIGHT switch DOWN: LCD displays current voltage of CAMERA battery. P-taps run to batteries in this order: RED = camera GREEN = monitor YELLOW = aux BLACK = LCD, this goes wherever you need it. The LCD cable is a good length, so I can run it any numbers of places, depending on the need. Right now, I have velcro just above my monitor so I can attach it facing me. Whole contraption feels like it weighs under 1lbs, not entirely sure. By leaving the left switch up and right switch down, it lets me watch the MONITOR battery at all times, and occasionally throw the left switch to watch the CAMERA battery. PARTS: - Digital Panel Meters +4.50 to+19.99V 13mA DC red LED v monitor - 3x Anton Bauer P-tap plug kits (bought from Bandpro) - wire - aluminum box from Fry's - 2x switches from Radio Shack - Stylish heat shrink tubing

Completely agreed.

I've done this once, but it was a favor for my friend who was the DP (not just a "friend" but an actual friend that I go way back with). I also worked only a few hours, albeit in some annoying terrain, but it was all good. I guess it just comes down to whether you think it's a good opportunity or not. If you think about it, maybe they get a product to shop around, and you get footage to use for your reel. Make sure the contract states that, if they get the movie made and they make any money off it, you get your FULL rate and maybe some hopes of working on the feature. Also couldn't hurt to try to negotiate some points out of it. Hey, it's a gamble, but if you have no other work that day, and you want to do it, go for it?

I still love my Eagle Creek bags and plastic baggies inside.

Janice: I now have the Deci 2, and the number of DIP switches truly boggles the mind. I have played with the 16:9-4:3 and NTSC-PAL switches. May give them all a run through soon, just to be thorough. Charles: the many variables are driving me bonkers. However, a BNC terminator on the Modulus sounds like a good idea. In the next few days, I'm going to try to borrow a RED body and lens (and battery) from a friend who owns a package, just to see if I can track it down when I'm not on set.