William Demeritt

Does the screen ever come up and turn blue, or does it simply stay with a black screen and no key light? If the screen stays black, but the keys don't light up, it might (for some reason) be going to the software upgrade standby screen. Normally, you get to that by pressing MENU and POWER at the same time. The screen turns on, stays black, and nothing else powers up. If you're simply pressing the power button, it may be reading input from the MENU button for some reason (other people have reported the keypad misbehaving with unintended input, etc). Do you have an alternative power method? If you have the battery backing plate, try powering it from just a battery and see if it comes on?

I like pneumatic wheels (or the soft rubber wheels, foam filled, etc), but they make the stand a LOT heavier. I've got hard rubber wheels on there right now, very happy with it.

I swapped out my wheels for the Ben Hur chariot wheels... No survivors.

OK, I'll play the devil's advocate for a brief moment and ask "Why do we NEED to know how fast you can go to low mode?" Anyone who's worn a rig for longer than a few gigs knows exactly what it takes to get into low mode... and if you don't, then you need to learn (or do a few hip-hop music videos... all day low mode... booty booty booty). However, if we're on top of things, we should be standing next to the DP and Director and overhear the tell-tale signs of a low mode shot coming... and once confirmation happens, we're walking to our rig (or radio to the assistant) to flip to low mode. If low mode is a "well, maaaaaybe low mode, but how long will it take?" is the mood, I generally determine the DP's hopes for low mode (as quickly as possible) and answer: "Cool, low mode coming up, 60 seconds." Anyway, I just think the proud race of low mode speed does us the disservice of hustling hard without planning or thinking. When they determine a change in lighting, the calls start going out and things happen quickly. Perhaps a lighting change is postponed as "unnecessary". However, we don't see the juicers saying "I can get a Kino on a beaver board in there in 90 seconds". The gaffer may offer it, but things happen in other departments "as quickly as they can". What is necessary is done as quickly, and safely, as possible. We obviously shouldn't drag our feet, and if our low mode swap takes 15 minutes, then we're doing something wrong. Everyone moves "as quickly as possible", but why do we let ourselves get thrown under the bus because "2 minutes to swap to low mode" is somehow an eternity and intolerable. Looks could go in and do touch-ups in the amount of time we need for low mode (if you can find where they're sleeping). Lighting would appreciate that 2 minutes. Everyone would. Fast, safe, cheap, right. Pick 3. I'm all for speedy swap to low mode, and everyone should have a low mode swap speed they're proud of. However, I just caution against the "I can do low mode in 30 seconds ALL THE TIME" attitude, even if you have it down to that speed. Just my opinion. Suck it, Baldwin.

I have the grips install a pair of PanaGravityBoots to some truss over video village, so if they don't have image flip in camera, or image flip from DIT, or a 180 degree VESA mount on the monitors... then they get to hang upside down and think about maaaaaaybe renting stuff that doesn't come from Craigslist or their son's friend who owns a camera.

Afton: I agree, that would have been the solution if this were still a design phase. However, as a software solution that doesn't require a massive recall, this should work well. Depends on the nature of the touch keys: if they're simply capacitive, then they might read a droplet sitting on the button as persistent input. Of course, a potential solution to this: apply a later of Rain-X on your monitor keys and water droplets won't sit there unless you're perfectly tabled and motionless. I agree, a switch would work great. However, as a software solution, pressing two buttons simultaneously for 3 seconds works better than the nothing Gen 2 owners have now.

I don't believe so. I think Chris is addressing the PsF issue first, but the false input on buttons could be fixed by adding a "screen lock" which requires holding brightness up and down together for 3 seconds before you can control the menu. Something like that.

I would agree with the sentiments about running with a weighted vest. If you were you add a few pounds per week to the vest, you might see some gains, but you're exponentially increasing the chances of damaging your hips, knees, lower back, etc. I own this vest for hiking: http://www.amazon.com/ZFOsports%C2%AE-60LBS-ADJUSTABLE-WEIGHTED-VEST/dp/B001876XYG/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1407088940&sr=8-2 Treadmill could train consistency of a weighted stride, but Steadicam is hardly a consistent stride or walk. I like hiking because the incline is natural, and the walking pace/terrain varied. Otherwise, you could just pick a path around your neighborhood and walk with the vest on. I've done the Rose Bowl loop a couple times with the vest, definitely a tough walk. Strange thing: for all of the hiking, jogging and weighted vest walking I've done, nothing has given such clear gains as weight training. Squats, deadlifts, lots of compound exercises, and it prepares you for Steadicam quite nicely!

Just wanted to give a quick shout out to Alan Rencher and his company/website Blackout Media. Yesterday, I was working on a music video with a RED Epic, and decided I'd had enough with my lack of run/stop. I knew Alan had built a complete run/stop device that wouldn't require the Epic owner or rental house bring the RED sync cable, so I texted him if he had one in stock. Alan brought the cable to me on set, I hooked it up and worked brilliantly. The device was $300, but considering how many LEMO connectors are on this thing, and how well built it was, I would gladly spend that money again. I'll probably print out a small business card with the GPIO settings for the Epic and stick it with the cable (or a sticker to go on the box). Otherwise, works great, nice and compact. Great work Alan, very happy with the cable! https://squareup.com/market/alan-rencher

I believe it has been dropped. I chatted with the guys at Cinegear, and apparently an early design/engineering decision accidentally precluded this feature. They seemed to think for a while they could implement it, but the delays were because they were discovering they'd accidentally locked themselves out of enabling that feature through software.

Sold. Thanks!

The website does say 12v regulated, but someone could probably make you a regulator in line with the power lines from the AB plate to the monitor.

Brett, I just ordered the ones for the AC7, and it fit perfectly.

I ordered two, got them, already got one on my dp7 in time for an all day exterior spot. Worked great! I did find some angles still required a change of monitor degree, but the protector worked great at cutting glare while keeping brightness. I was happy with it.

These days? Video village.

I like the last photo, looks very cool, glad it worked out for you guys! Who's the PA on the left with the Burger King headset?

I've got a can of PlastiDip, I might just coat the brake and see if the rubber-on-rubber is effective? I figure it'll wear down, but then I'll just reapply. The floor lock solution, however, is sexy.

I dig the glitter!

Thank you for the interest, this has sold.

Wasn't sure if anyone had one laying around that they'd like to offload. Specifically looking for the PRO 2 battery base compatible video recorder mount that has the "upgraded" fins that give clearance to Dionic HC batteries. Hit me up if it's sitting on your shelf, I'll give it a good home (we have Scotch and cats).

Anyone tried making a bicycle wheel brake (not a disc brake, the friction rubber-to-rubber) that has a handle on the cart's handle? Run the wires to the wheel, and when you depress the "hand brake", the brake comes off the wheels (lets you move). Hands off, brake is automatically applied by spring. EDIT: brakes on the dumb wheels obviously, not the smart wheels.

Thank you for that, Nick! Gonna check them out ASAP.

Entertaining any offers.

I can't imagine it's a problem. The jumper blocks are simply the specific shape of aluminum with banana plugs and short copper wires soldered between the banana plugs.

Also known as Australian yoga.