William Demeritt

Squats, deadlines, bench press. Rotating compound exercises, weekly. Lift more than you do on set, so on set, it's nothing.

Also worth mentioning: kettle bells are a great tool for working out at home. Goblets Squats, snatches, overhead Squats, get ups, etc. You can keep one in a hotel room if you want.

What is everyone using as a yoke for the DP7PRO-HB? I know Matthias' yoke will work on it, but does anyone else have a solution?

Sorry, yea, buy the 6 canister setup because buying it later is stupid. However, be prepared to spend most of your time on 4 blues.

I haven't loaded my black canisters into my arm in a while. Your mileage may vary.

If I were in your position, I'd do everything I could to separate the two jobs. Have a demo reel for your DP work, and a demo reel for your operator work. If both reels should have footage from the same project, so be it. Let them figure it out (or not).

Given the tendency of Epic owners to own packages that are incomplete, paired with the numerous accessories that come from a rental house to complete an Epic setup, I find the Arri dovetail quite functional in giving the full plate of rough adjustment fore/aft.

If I have a variety of primes fetched from a dumpster nearby, I find moving the camera on the dovetail quite useful, and functional, and the height increase (of the camera) paired with its weight also assists with getting my gimbal placed where I like it (increased total weight on the camera platform and height increase without greater weight "higher", i.e. lead weights, etc, which pushes the CG away from gimbal).

Often results in a setup where I fly 1 battery below, or 2 batteries and practically balances like an Alexa (except for the lack of camera length, so doesn't have the same pan inertia, which sucks).

Anyway, that's just how I like it. Fly your own way.

Anyone ever tried these on their Meridian?

http://www.fab-corp.com/product.php?productid=3141&cat=0&page=1

I've used them on other 5Ghz transmitter devices with RP-SMA connectors with great results. Furthermore, they have 90 degree bends if you want, and they're more rigid than the standard Boxx antennas.

If you order the ones above, be sure to order RP-SMA antennas.

Whenever I fly the Epic, I usually keep the Arri dovetail on the camera, fly with an onboard battery and the touch screen, etc. Between the Arri dovetail and the battery, that chunks the camera up quite a bit and helps keep the weight "right". Also, the Arri dovetail is heavy and as low as it can get, so it adds ballast without causing considerable headaches with gimbal placement. Beyond that, Ozzie is right: add on the rest of the crap that makes a camera (motors, focus unit, lens, mattebox, etc), it adds up.

The basic Paralinx Arrow tx/rx with all the relevant cables and the transmitter "shield". I believe you can get the receiver paired to another transmitter if you wanted to create a 1:2 or 1:3 system from what you have.

Also selling a Blackmagic battery powered HDMI to HDSDI converter with AC power cable.

Would love to get $700 for the Arrow, $200 for the HDMI converter. Buy as a package for $825, OBO. PM me here or email me: will AT wbd3 DOT com.

Pictures can be posted later, if you're into that sort of thing.

You need to enable HDMI scaling on the Decimator 2 in order to use it for this purpose. You need a Windows computer and the Decimator control panel software available on their website. Once installed and your Decimator 2 is connected, you enable scaling in those menus. Once scaling is enabled, any HDSDI feed will be scaled to HDMI per your settings on the scaling menu, and output to the HDMI port on the Decimator.

This thread is 10 years old and the solid info from Muhlstock and others is every bit as relevant. Sometimes we love our Interwebs.One tidbit to update: As it turns out, recent research proves the use of tonic water ( or just plain Quinine ) to control leg cramps to be 100% bullshit. Live and learn !!On the OTHER hand, potassium is quite useful in this regard. Adam Keith eats a banana before Good Morning America. Since he's been operating every day since 1992 when he took my Rockport workshop, he's eaten over 7,500 bananas.:)

If you don't like bananas as much, drink some coconut water. I think it's 10x as much potassium and quicker to absorb.

Honestly, the most interesting thing about CineGear was that Tiffen wasn't there.

Barely used, still in great condition.

http://www.gpiprosystems.com/cinetronic-monitor-mount.php

Brand new goes for $575+tax. I'd love to get $450 for it, OBO.

I'd love to see a performance test for range, etc. However, one potential deal breaker for people is the lack of multicast in the IDX CW-3. At NAB, they indicated it wouldn't happen in the future for that model either.

Also, the CW-7 doesn't have external antennas, which for me is the huge breakthrough of the latest round of transmitters.

I'm interested in the Bolt 600, what is the group buy price going to be???

Come on, boys, let's get back to hating on RED.

I'd be curious about their service life No serviceability, as well as RED's support when they need repair. I'll wait until other people have gone thru it before I consider a purchase.

Should be easy to spot. Go to Google Maps, use the satellite imagery of Montana, and look for the pile of M-One motors in someone's back yard next to the pile of opened UPS boxes. Don't like 20 people total live in Montana, shouldn't be too hard.

After party for the Stabilizer Expo then, I guess?

What about a drop in tilt plate? something akin to the tilt plate on top of a geared head, but made into a dovetail with a dovetail receptacle on the top, acting as a sandwich plate. Even if it is an inch or an inch and a half tall, that wouldn't really matter since the camera will be tilted so high anyway. That way you could drop in the tilt plate when you need it and not have the extra weight or height when you don't.

 

Thoughts?

Would we like it to achieve any arbitrary degree of tilt down (or tilt up, depending on how we tie it to the camera), or specific degrees of tilt (1°, 2°, ..., 5°)? I would imagine arbitary degrees would require clamping mechanisms (hex screws, maybe kipp handles) that apply pressure to achieve the tilt angle but could possibly introduce vibration or instability. Specific angles could be keyed into the incline so when locked into place, the shape of the structure holds the tilt angle and the lock maintains position.

Of course, I think lots of operators bypass this need by simply adjusting fore/aft on the sled to create the tilt, but having a solution to offer that same flexibility as tilting topstages might be an interesting idea.

Howard has deleted his Facebook profile.

Are you sure he didn't have to give it up along with MK-V?

Here's Howard's response:

 

 

Howard J Smith What BS is this now? You obviously have no work....
I've been too busy to come on here.
I don't know what this is about and don't really care. But Jim said to me himself that he repaired one of my VFX focus units from Doggicam in 1997 ish and that have him the idea / inspiration for the Bartech that's all. And I have the upmost respect for Jim.

It's OK, Jim. At least you still own your company.

What about the PTAP that is built into the battery "Chinese battery" on the AUX battery?

I have a feeling that depends on how the chinese batteries are wired: if the PTAP gets + and - off of the same wiring line as the terminals that connect to the AB plate, then you'll likely have the same problem? Worth testing, and we didn't have any of those batteries with us when we were testing it.

We did some testing yesterday and discovered something strange that we were able to duplicate numerous times. More testing is needed, and we're going to share what we found with Jack, but in the mean time, I'd make this suggestion to PRO CineLive owners:

If you have the CineLive upper and lower junctions, and you're powering a 24v camera (Arri Alexa, etc), I advise you do not use the AUX PTAP on the right side of the CineLive lower junction, or the PTAP on the AUX battery, to power any video equipment that also receives a signal over HD-SDI.

So, simply put: if powering a 24v camera, we recommend you don't use the AUX battery PTAP (on CineLive Lower Junction OR AUX battery position) to power video accessories (Teradek Bolt, Hyperdeck Shuttle 2, etc).

CAM PTAP is fine. The moral: don't power 12v HD video accessories off AUX PTAP's if you're powering the camera in 24v mode.