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Brian Freesh

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Brian Freesh last won the day on October 4 2015

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About Brian Freesh

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 03/15/1982

Profile Information

  • Rig
    GPI Pro 3 Cine Live, Titan Arm, Pro Vest, Cinetronic 2
  • Location
    Los Angeles, CA

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  1. I got them from McMaster-Carr. I have a bag of 10 if you want some. https://www.mcmaster.com/#thumb-screws/=150b35w
  2. All taken care of, apologies for not updating sooner :)
  3. Hi all I know it's a long shot, but I'm looking for 1-4 used Dionic HCs, can be completely dead. Let me know, thanks!
  4. Oops, LESS than $2000!!! No one has pointed out my typo yet, or made an offer over $2k, but I want to be clear that I'm looking to spend LESS than $2000
  5. Hello all you gorgeous operators! I'm looking for a vest to pair with my Ultra I sled. Ultra vest preferred, but will consider anything under $2000. Thanks!
  6. IIRC That camera only outputs P when shooting 25p or 50i, otherwise it is PSF. So you'll need to down convert or cross convert.
  7. Will, we did get a perfectly real explanation to the issue you mentioned, we created a loop that connected negative to negative on the batteries (ground loop?), and while the camera was protected, the Bolt was not. It's an issue that could come up on a non-cinelive sled, and also with any 24v series setup using 12v batteries on plates with ptaps or with built-in ptaps. It could happen without a steadicam, but from what little info we have of the camera build and where things were plugged in and what happened there's no way to tell if it was the same issue. FWIW, ALL cameras and video accessories use the power ground to ground the video signal. You've never had a problem because you've never created the negative to negative loop. On your sled there is only one way to do this, on a cinelive there are 2 ways. And it will only happen when powering a 24v camera through the sled, and only when using the ptap on the AUX battery (2 of them on cinelive, 3 if using batts with built-in ptap) with a video accessory. You can use that ptap with a non-video accessory, you can use the ptap when the sled is in 12v mode, you can use the ptap in 24v mode if you are not powering the camera through the sled. EDIT: I don't know enough about what happened in Victor's situation. My first guess is that his cables were wired to carry 24v and fried the bolt. I do not believe it is possible to cause the loop I am discussing through those lemos, but I also didn't even know it was a thing until I fried my decimator, which was after I'd fried Will's decimator doing the same thing on a different rig. Neither of them were fed too much voltage, both were fried by the loop.
  8. The dragon is definitely not your problem, it's whatever else you have on there. My Epic/Dragon builds are never over 25 lbs. You're probably just built up with items you don't need. Make sure you have a clip on matte box instead of a studio, so that you can take the base plates off the bottom. Or if your matte box can go off mini rods, make sure you have mini rod support without having the baseplates on. Use aluminum or carbon fiber rods rather than steel if possible. And make sure you don't have a big heavy lens on there.... Power through the sled if you have to (you may need to buy a cable)
  9. http://tiffen.com/steadicam/steadicam-efp-training-video/
  10. Hey Tom and Aiken, sorry fellas, i snapped these up quick :)
  11. I joined the line at the PO today and it seems no one knows who steadi or jib is yet.
  12. Yes, longstanding issue. I sanded down my Master Arm pin 5 years ago, has fit in my Pro vest ever since. I occasionally check the pin to make sure it's not rusting, as that's supposed to be mild steel under the stainless I sanded away, but I've never seen anything of concern.
  13. So... working in New York is what you're doing to the rig.... ;) Yeah I travel the rig on the cart more often than not, the stand is for getting it closer to set and only ever makes small moves, which is why a heavy stand with wheels or a light stand with no wheels seems to work very nicely.
  14. I have the 2-riser American Stand with 8" pneumatic and I love it. Not sure I want to know what Ron's doing with it that it beats up the rig. The wheels come off easily when the terrain calls for it and it's plenty stable to set the rig on with the rig over a leg (keep an eye on the ACs as they often ignore this concept), but I'll often get a shot bag just in case. I do find that ACs have trouble accepting that removing the wheels is easy and/or worth the "effort" but once I talk them into it they gladly carry around a sand bag rather than the wheels. And even though i've seen two operators switch from this to an American stand, I have often thought about getting one of these: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/139498-REG/Matthews_387030_Hollywood_Beefy_Baby_Stand.html These come in different models and from different manufacturers, not sure if the linked one is best or not, but I belive it is the one I've used (may have used triple riser). But I've used these before to great success. Even the steel ones are light enough to carry in one hand while wearing the rig, but they do come in aluminum. The stance is wide enough that everything is very stable, at least on the steel version. Aluminum might be a bit too unstable.
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