Jason Torbitt

Hi Erik Hope you're well, all fine over here thanks. The Master rig has 2 pin small Lemo, 3 pin large Lemo, plus some 4-pin Hirose connectors for power & video distribution. I power the transmitter with 1 cable, 4-pin Hirose splitting out into 2.1mm DC plug (power) and BNC (video). In your situation, you could make up cables or buy them, and either power the transmitter off the camera, or if you have a 2-pin Lemo cable to 4-pin XLR, you could just buy or make a cable from XLR to the 2.1mm DC plug on the transmitter for powering off the rig in that way, and use a separate BNC cable for video. This where I like having so many options for cables and connectors, there isn't usually a problem with powering the various accessories off the sled with the Master, and it's quite easy to buy or make your own relevant cables. I bought a wide selection of cables from Teletest and made a few myself, to cover myself for whatever situation comes up on set. Hope this helps Cheers Jason

Or to keep it simple/more brief, maybe drop down selections, or text boxes under categories: Sled: Arm: Vest: Focus: This could actually go on for some time now I think about it...

Hi Erwin I would reccommend the Teletest 2.4Ghz system. Very well built, rugged and reliable, I've used mine for over 2 years now without any complaints. As well as transmitter and receiver boxes, they also now do a 7" LCD with inbuilt receiver, great portable wireless monitor for the director, add a battery plate of your choice to the back and away you go. No, they've not paid me to say any of this, I'm just a very happy customer. Cheers Jason

That's not too much of a problem, most cameras nowadays are v-lock anyway, and somebody will always have a PAG to v-lock or A/B to v-lock adaptor plate anyway, and its easy enough to get hold of a v-lock battery kit from somewhere if you needed it. I've found these links work well for corporate and live stuff, but as you say not much use for any other applications. Although 'the-boxx' does do a generic version that is just the box, that can be mounted anywhere with a bit of velcro and powered with cables and fed with a BNC, easy enough. I'll just stick with my Teletest 2.4 Ghz for now, it does a good enough job!

The majority of voltage readout things need to be in-line with the power supply (battery) & the load (Camera, remote focus etc) so that it can accurately measure voltage and power being consumed etc. A PowerTap styled connector attached to a voltmeter would be a useful addition to the kit bag purely to do a quick check of voltage for non-digital display batteries, and would be extremely useful. The Wolf Seeburg, Astro Meter and the meter that Filmtools sells in the 'AC' section of its website are all one and the same unit. The meter is in the middle with XLR-4pin connectors on a short cable either side.

I did a shot on a short recently that was a single take, 6 minutes length just circling round a seance table. The entire storyline was played out at the table with some quite intense acting performances. The Steadicam shot was a constantly rotating CU, revolving around the 5 people sat at the table. Hard work to pull off, and just at the awkward height in between low mode and regular operating mode. Looked great though

Hi Chris Good to hear from you I had very similar sounding problems with my Zoe - as soon as I would plug it in, the lens would just crash in by itself at top speed, as if you had depressed the telephoto rocker on the controller. It turns out I had to have the cable replaced, it was a wiring disconnection where the cable goes into the Zoe. Sounds like you have a similar problem, or it is somehow shorting out. The problem is that there's always going to be a certain amount of kinking or twisting going on around that area, due to the nature of the gimbal and the route we need the cable to take. Don't have any suggestions as for repair, other than sending it to Tiffen or maybe drop Bebob, who manufacture the Zoe a call, and see if they can take a look at it for you - they're helpful guys.

I don't know of one that does exactly what you describe, Dan, (if you find out the exact model, let me know, I want one!) But there are another couple of alternatives that I discovered previously through this forum; Wolf Seeberg Battery Watcher - www.wolfvid.com The one that I have hardwired into my rig, as I remember, is the Astro Flight Meter, available from the US online store Tower Hobbies. Gives you a V, A, W, Ah readout, it goes into your circuit between the battery plate and the main power cable going into the base of your rig, so it measures what the current voltage is, and how much is being drawn by the rig and the accessories that it's powering at the time, so you know ahead of time when your battery is on its way out... very useful, I couldn't do without it now.

This post reminds me of when I had the opportunity to fly this setup at the Production Show here - it's astonishing how you almost literally don't know it's there - MK-V Lite with Flyer arm and a Klassen. Even standing still in a lock-off shooting position is no problem. You could operate for quite some time without docking.

I definatly reccommend Modular 51, I have some of their gear. The only thing to keep in mind except shipping, is that they don't seem to carry stock, they manufacture to order so it may take a couple of weeks to arrive. But ultimately worth the wait for well fabricated protective bags. Job - you may think that's an expensive shipping cost, you should see how expensive those steadicam magliner carts are to ship - ouch!

I have a couple of pieces of large sheet boading that go out with the kit for days when I'm working outdoors. The grip and AC or whoever is available can use them as directed to walk along with the wind to block off the majority of the negating effect.

Whilst I can't testify to the quality of the product in question, I can support the company - I have purchased from them in the past, and received my item (omni-directional high gain antenna) with no problems or issues. I did recognise their gear as they went through a spell of selling on ebay a year or so ago. Like I say, I had no problems with their customer service and they shipped promptly.

Matt, Didn't know you had an HVX-200. Might be able to find some work for you with that camera. I'll get in touch if I get anything for you. Cheers JT

I did this job today, no issues, thanks Dan. Shooting 720 50p. Internal downconverter board present and correct. Outputs any composite or digital video format you care to choose. For those interested in the HD movement, this camera will be one to keep an eye on, it's a new model which isn't yet widespread, in the UK there aren't that many units in at this stage. I was talking with the DoP about it, he has done camera tests with the HDX-900 alongside the current workhorse over here, the Sony HDW-750, and the Panasonic apparently outperformed the Sony. (to the extent that he bought one out of his own pocket).

Rick, Try and steer for the DXC-D35 if possible. It's lighter than the DSR-570 (assuming the D35 has a triax back rather than a DVCAM back on it) I've operated with both cameras, on the rig and handheld, the D35 is definately lighter, should be enough to save worrying about bottoming out. Cheers JT

Yes, WD-40 drives out moisture and i is a degreaser, as Job says. Works great around the house but 'just say no!' to using it on the arm. Plenty in the archives on this here, use ACF-50 or proper grease/oil.

The mini becomes quite an unweildy rig when it's at its max. I had it upto max with one of those MiniDV full size camera bodied-JVC cameras a couple of years ago. It was quite a handful, some rolling due to the heaviness of the top weight as you describe. By no means uncontrollable, just hard work to balance and operate. A case of production cutting cost left, right and centre and insisting on hiring all the gear themselves. I don't trust that arm on the Mini either, it doesn't do anything for me at all.

Hi guys, I have a job coming up with the new HD HDX-900 Panaonic camera. I need SD video output for the monitor on the rig: does this camera have an internal downconverter board like the Sony HDW-750 or do I need a downconverter? I need to get PAL out of it. From my preliminary findings, I should be OK, just wondering who out there has flown this camera and can confirm this? Also if there are any tips or quirks with this camera I should be aware of. Thanks for your time Cheers Jason

The full pinout for the 12 pin Hirose on video camera bodies can be found in this thread, for reference http://www.steadicamforum.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=151 Looks like the Sony/Panasonic cable doesn't work as according to Mitch's post, VTR and ground are the other way round on pins 2 & 3. Does anyone have any clarification on this connector and what pinouts there are out there for it?

Ebay are usually quite good on picking out these suspect / fake items. Someone hijacked my account once and tried to sell a motorbike off it. I was working away at the time, I got back to find ebay had dealt with it all and cancelled the auction. I would go with Rob's advice of steering well clear of anyone who insists you email them with questions rather than using 'Ask seller a question'. <plug> And while I'm on the subject, I'm selling a PRO compatable video assist cable on ebay on the moment - yes, it's me, guaranteed to be real and geniune! </plug>

Simon, I see you are on the XT again for the Golf World Matchplay Championship (on the BBC here in the UK). It looked like you were using the Hardmount when I saw you on the TV today. How does it perform? Less tiring than standing on the segway wearing the rig, I would imagine. Some nice looking tracking shots up the fairway anyway. Cheers Jason

Hi Matt, Black Box Video also do these LCDs, amongst others. I would definatly reccommend Teletest though, great people who will look after you. They do some useful booster / high gain antennae too. Cheers for the good luck message!

For focus, options would be - Stanton (zoom & focus), Vocas (zoom & focus or iris) or J7 (you can get hold of these used for focus only). Obviously the usual thing applies - try to get remote focus and focus puller, but great to have in the kit box for those tricky moments or one man band corporate work. I get by with using a Zoe for all zoom, Canon & Fujinon, and for focus either Fox or Genio, and I have a Canon J7 for focus too. You need lenses with inbuilt or external focus servo, Canon = 6 pin, Fujinon = 8 pin, same style as zoom (I think). Best solution maybe for you would be to get the BFD and buy the gimbal mount potentiometer - no need for a focus servo, and its the best of both worlds... buy one of the FM6-6's from MK-V and the job's done.

I don't know if Tiffen do a standard upgrade for the Archer, speak to Robin, but if they don't maybe try MK-V and talk it over with them.

A bit more expensive than you may like, but I have always found Teletest to be a great company with excellent gear and customer service. They do 2.4Ghz systems and receivers built into portable LCDs.