Andre Trudel

Hi Brett, How are things in Canada? I spoke to David Hable last year about getting your efp mod. He had just lost his machinist to a big job at the time so, it did not work out. The Anton Bauer T-plate (hot swap) would have been a grate idea but, I finally figured it out. This is what worked for me: You take the efp battery cage apart. On the top right-hand side of the battery cage there is a piece of aluminum (about a centimeter) that prevents the new 100’s from locking in completely. Get a grinding point and drill the metal down so that it’s flush like the other side. Put the cage back together except for the metal plate that goes directly under the battery. It now fits the new 100’s! Thanks for all the responses. It might be hard to visualize so, if anyone needs pictures or have questions, please feel free to pm. Fly safe. ;)

Sorry for the repost but, I have to trade in the Hytrons 100’s soon. What are all you efp owners doing for power? Is machining or altering the batteries my only option? I did do a search and nothing efp battery specific came up. Thanks.

I have a Steadicam efp. I bought 2 Hytron 100’s but they do not fit. I eventually plan on making a bracket to make it a 2 to 3 battery system but, that probably won’t happen for at lest 6 months. I’m thinking about trading in the 100’s for the Hytron 50’s. Apart from the weight issue, is there any other reason not to go that wrought? All advice is greatly appreciated.

Thanks Guys. Rob, the way that the efp cage is made dose not allow the pins on the Hytron 100’s to reach the AB plate. Even if I trued the battery mount 90 degrees it still would not work because the actual efp mount is physically too small for the new style battery cases. Did you machine a whole new battery cage to fit? What batteries are you using? Gus, I was told that Anton Bauer changed there battery casing about three years ago so, they don’t carry the old style Hytrons anymore. Thanks again for your suggestions.

I just bought 2 Hytron 100’s for my steadicam efp rig but they don’t fit. Did Anton Bauer change the battery case? I believe the older hytron 120’s worked just fine. What batteries are you using on your efp these days? I apologies if this topic has been covered but, I came up with nothing efp specific when I did a search. Thanks.

Thanks Iain.

I?m buying some tools tomorrow and I need to know the alan wrench size for the Pro GPI bolts that tighten/loosen the docking collar and VZ gimbal. Thanks.

Thanks for the responses. Brant, I will try Paul today. Thanks again and have a great and happy new year.

Just curious if B & H is the best place to buy the Anton Bauer D-2722 Power Charger and a couple of Digital HyTRON 100?s?

A 1.5 inch docking collar. I have a gpi docking bracket.

Hi Aaron, The arm makes the noise when I?m adjusting the tension and it?s not under load. While the arm is in use, it fly?s nicely without any noise. It?s weird. Thanks for your response.

I have an efp/3A arm. When I adjust the arm for more or less weight there is this weird clunk sound when I turn the ?bolt? about every 359 degrees. It only happens on the top section of the arm. How concerned should I be? I bought the arm with new cables and possibly springs already installed. Thanks.

Hi Erwin, would you happen to have one of these for the lower "D-box" as well?

Thanks everyone for your responses. Robert, you rock dude! Thanks for your offer but, like Charles said, it?s a very small and light dv camera that I?m just using to practice. I think it?s only about 2 lbs with the battery attached and there is no handle. Charles, I would like to get a cage made but, how do you go about finding a machinist that will do just one cage? Any recommendations for a good machine shop/machinist in the LA area? I know where I can find the steel but, where would I find the struts? Can I buy struts that are already threaded anywhere? Thanks again for all your help.

Thanks for the response Alec. I checked the forum but, it seems like weight cages are hard to come by these days.

I can?t get a 3 second drop time without practically centering the gimbal on the post. Here is my current steadicam efp sled set up. 1. On top I have a weight plate and a small dv camera that together weigh about 14 pounds. 2. The center post is almost fully compressed and just a little over 12 inches high. I prefer a longer post length but, extending the post would make the drop time even worse. 3. Everything is fairly light on the bottom half of the sled. Super light LCD and a Hytron 50. I use the lighter battery because of the light camera set up. In the manual it says that the payload (camera and accessories) for the efp is between 12 and 26 pounds. Is my only option to add more top weight? How was it done back in the day?

I have a Steadicam efp sled that I want to make into a running rig. I would like to be able to use my pro gimbal. I need to make a break in the cable up by the j-box. I was wondering what the best connector to use for this is?

At the Arrowhead workshop I was so surprised to find out that ?goofy? just felt right for me. I felt like I had total control of the rig but I went "traditional" for the entire workshop. I didn?t want to be the only one operating on the right. Operating ?normal? was not a problem but, goofy just felt a little more comfortable the one time I tried it. I?ll have to try it again as soon as my leg heals but, I?ll probably do what Erwin did and just op with my left. It?s weird because I?m not goofy footed on a snowboard. Must be a different part of the brain.

I?m looking for a used Preston or Bartech. Thanks.

Hi Jonathan, I took the steadicam workshop last year in CA and, it?s a must for anyone interested in operating. The lead instructor said to stay far away from the steadicam pro vid. I own an efp rig. The modification and upgrade possibilities on the rig are almost endless. You can find a lot of info on the efp here on the forum. Good luck.

I?m looking for a D-box III or possibly even a Chrosziel top stage. Thanks.

Thanks for your quick response Frederic and Mark. Frederic, I was sorry to read about your misfortune with your old sled. I was wondering why you went with the pro instead of another artemis sled? Mark, the g-70 arm really is hard to beat but, it?s a little out of my price range at the moment so, I think I?ll stick to my trusty 3A arm with Robert Luna?s new spring upgrade for now. I called Jim Davis but, he could not really answer any of my questions. I wanted to know if I could buy the sled without there gimble, monitor bracket, and possibly the post. I think I?d rather go with tiffen?s carbon fiber post and XCS?s gimble and bracket. I?ll contact Curt Shaller. Thanks again.

Satchler Artemis Cine HD. I tried it out at the NAB show in Vegas last year. The sled seemed very nice and sturdy and was very modular and light with a three battery set up. The vest also fit me very well and felt very comfortable, strong, and light with a pretty thick chest spar. The arm was the only thing I did not like because of the boom range, or should I say, lack there of. I?m looking to upgrade my sled from my old steadicam efp. I did not run with the rig on so, I was wondering how sturdy the sled really is? Is there vibration? How good is there X/Y top stage? How good is the gimble even though I would probably want to replace there gimble and monitor bracket with XCS?s. Your advice is greatly appreciated.

Thanks everyone for your responses. Is the dovetail plate on the pro1 Db different from the pro 2 and 3 d-boxes? Is that what you meant by parts might be a problem, Eric?

I was wondering what the major difference between the 3A and the Pro 1st gen top stage is. I need to make a decision soon between the two. Your opinion on the pros and cons of each is greatly appreciated.