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Peter Sheppard

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Posts posted by Peter Sheppard

  1. Kenyon K6 Gyro Kit For Sale.

    Gyro's are in great condition.

    I bought these to use on a cable-cam system, but have ended up not needing them.

     

    Included is:

    2 X K6 Kenyon Gyro's

    1 X Kenyon Power Inverter

    2 X 3 pin to Lemo gyro power cables

    1 X D-Tap to 4 pin power cable

    2 X 1/4" screw mounts

    2 X spare 1/4" screw mounts.

    Hard Case

     

    Price is $3000 USD + Shipping from Sydney, Australia.

     

    Email me on movingcameras@gmail.com for any specifics.

     

    Cheers,

    Pete.

     

     

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  2. Hi Guys,

    Just wondering if anyone is using a Connex link by Amimon as a video link? Also, why the can drone guys can get a link that does 1000m in full HD with zero latency for just $1500 when it costs us 4 times that to get one that does 100m.

     

    http://connex.amimon.com/sites/connex/UserContent/files/connexA4May15ACnx0515A4screen%20(2).pdf

     

    I know this unit is HDMI only and has dicky connectors but am I missing something as to why you can't just put an SDI converter on each end and a couple of Lemo plugs and have a huge range at a low price???

     

    Please feel free to correct me if I've missed something. Im not a Link technician just a steadicam op.

    Cheers,

    Shep.

  3. Hi guys,

    I've had the same problem with my HB DP7. About 1 in every 50 times it won't get a signal, it usually comes back after a reboot but sometimes it takes a couple if goes.

    It's a bit of a hassle when they're calling for you on set and your trying to get there as soon as possible.

  4. PhotoHigher Flying Fox cable car system with AV200 3 Axis gimbal.


    The system has never been used, just bought, customised, tested and is now for sale. I just don't have the time to run this system as I have become busy with other projects.



    The PhotoHigher Flying Fox is a compact, computer-controlled, stabilised, cable-suspended camera system. The system is stabilised with both mechanical and electrical gyros. The Flying Fox is powered with brushless motors and can be autonomously programmed to complete a number of actions along a fixed cable.


    This Flying Fox has been customised with 2 V Lock battery plates to power camera, Gyro’s, Link and whatever other accessories you might need. It has Hirose and BNC cables run through the head so as not to get tangled and for a cleaner system.


    I have spent over $10 000 AUD for this kit. For Sale for $8000 AUD plus shipping. Save yourself over $2000 and a lot of work and research, and get a fully functioning customised rig.



    Go to photohigher.com to see the full specs of the rig.



    Kit includes:


    PhotoHigher Flying Fox with custom V Lock battery and accessory plate


    PhotoHigher AV200 3 axis gimbal


    2 X Spektrum DX8 remotes


    Customised pelican case for Flying Fox, gimbal and remotes.


    4 5000mah LiPo batteries


    Battery Charger


    100m X 8mm Dyneema Rope


    Power cables for: 2 X Epic, 2 X 4pin XLR, Y Hirose Power cable, D Tap to Hirose spare.


    Custom built winch plate


    2 X Rock Exotica Pulleys


    6 X DMM steel carabiner’s


    2 X 2500kg Ratchet Straps


    8 X Various Slings



    Email me at movingcameras@gmail.com for more details.



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  5. Hi guys,

    Ive owned my DP7 HB for about a year now and love it. When I first got it I thought I'd made a massive mistake in getting it as the apparent refresh rate is pretty bad, (David I think this is the delay you are talking about) it was like watching progressive without any shutter in. After about 2 days of using it my eyes adjusted to it and now I can't see it at all. Very strange how your eyes adjust to things like that but they do.

    Apart from the useless level I just love the monitor. A good size, weight and picture for me. I'd definitely recommend it.

     

    Pete.

  6. Hi Martin,

    You wouldn't like to make me one as well? Pleeeese!!

    Otherwise, if your not keen on going into production, any chance of putting a design up somewhere so we all could make use of your brilliance?

    I'd love to find out more about how to put one of these together.

    Cheers,

    Shep.

  7. Yeah the G-Zoom is the go. As long as you have the focus servo in the lens it will work perfectly for you.

    I've had mine for about 5 years now and still rate it as the best for doing your own zoom and focus.

    Also the customer service from Eric is great if something does happen. The cables are Very thin so you have to be extremely careful with them.

  8. I agree, and do keep it simple Sarah.

    The other reason I was thinking of running the display through a BNC was that I can also see this being used for other purposes. I'm also a jib operator and when doing music some directors like the Dutch tilt. I'd love to know when the camera is level rather then just by eye and this device would be perfect for that.

    Its something I've been thinking about for a while now, I'm just not a rocket scientist to build it myself.

  9. The benchmark is obviously the XCS with the display on the monitor, but I am thinking that Sarah is talking about a row of LED's that can be placed just above or below the monitor similar to the Tiffen ultrabright but with the sensor seperate so can be placed just under the camera. This would be a good option for those of us who want to view in HD and who don't have an existing level in the monitor.

    It is a good idea for her to hook up with some Steadicam ops to see how the rig moves and how it is configured but I think she's on the right track.

    Just my thoughts.

    Shep.

  10. Hi Sarah,

    It's sounding good to me. The single power to the control box/sensor is a definate. The power loop through might be nice but far from a necessity.

    Also try to make it all as compact as possible. There is already a heap of stuff hanging off that top stage when running a follow-focus etc.

  11. Put me on the sales list.

    I'd say roll only, I usually tilt the sled for framing, headroom etc and wouldn't really want another LED moving about distracting me.

    For the housing question, I'd like the box with the sensor to also have the controls on it which I could mount onto the top-stage so close to the camera. Then a cable to a small LED strip I could mount anywhere above or below my monitor. It would be great for the cable to be a BNC so it could be run down one of the extra lines down the post, and the power to be a lemo so pretty standard to everything else.

    I'd reckon if you made and priced these well you'd be able to retire to the Bahamas on this invention.

    Shep.

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