Ken Nguyen

Gerard, I think you didn't mount it right. In low mode, without the F-bracket, the gimbal is still sitting up right likes in normal mode. Adjust the post drag tension so the post won't slip out. It's filthy for just 3 weeks! How can it be? That's a lot of abuses into that arm. Cheers, Ken Nguyen.

I don't have any better choice but to work in a VERY LOUD environments as well. Most of the time standing 1ft away from a refrigerator-size speaker. The eartec system with its extreme headset works well for me. Much, much better than RTS or ClearCom headset. No need to wire any microphone to the camera. No expensive "Blue" adaptor to Bluetooth. Just need the truck to send me an XLR to my station so I can hook up the eartec system. I can hold my shot while talking back to director. It works well for film and commercial works as well. If I have to be tethered with triax or fiber, then I don't bother to use wireless. Just hook the headset to the back of the camera. The headset cable never bothers me or my operation in anyway.

I use Eartec wireless SLTi system. Just connect the receiver base to any wired intercom line and i'm good to go (monitor and talk back). Cheap and light weight. Cheers, Ken Nguyen.

Interesting subject! I learned "set" from school. And. I've been using it since then for 99% of my Steadicam and handheld work. The 1% is sign language. AD asks "camera ready" I just nod or wink. Frankly, this is the first time I know "frame" by reading this post. But, whatever word or signal that I use, I tell or ask the director and AD before the shoot.

- Bad location for the wireless Tx. It should be on top of camera. - Bad orientation of the Tx. Should be mounted upright. Ken Nguyen.

Anyone who knows the op. Tell him to hire a good lawyer to sue that guy. File a complaint to the police.

Sanjay is right. No Mafer clamp. For safety please use 2" pipe and Cheeseboroughs clamps. Fly safe, Ken Nguyen.

All of the swinging moves seem not very solid at start and stop. Look at all the ends of the moves, the camera didn't come to a solid stop. Too hard to cut it into scenes. May only use 1 or 2 seconds (max) in between the swing.

Sigh....... No, you didn't. You are 0-3 Eric, You were wrong. Shawn is really Mr. Three-Zero.

I second Victor. I broke 2 straight cables already. There is no problem after using right angle cable. The recorder is light weight. I just velco it to my sled without its mounting bracket. Cheers, Ken Nguyen.

Seriously, this is not something a 51 year-old should do. Be educated. Fight like a man, a grown-up man. Or, at least, learn to respect yourself first. Ken Nguyen.

"Application of the term troll is subjective. Some readers may characterize a post as trolling, while others may regard the same post as a legitimate contribution to the discussion, even if controversial" I got that from Google. Troll or not, an interesting point was raised that no one has addressed: Put a Movi in top of a Steadicam sled and take some footage. Is anybody going to do it? Why one should mount the Movi on top of Steadicam sled or arm? Because we, Steadicam ops, can not keep the vertical and horizontal roll of the camera? Because we, Steadicam ops, can not make a stable/smooth shot? Because we, Steadicam ops, can not frame the shot as a cameraman? The combination of Steadicam and Movi is dumb set up. It gives no practical and effective result. Putting the Movi on Steadicam sled to helps correcting horizontal/vertical roll? or, to have DP framing the shot for you? A real Steadicam operator is a real cameraman who operates Steadicam system. Ken Nguyen. PS: someone wants to drive a car but wants the wheel to be controlled by someone else. All he has to do is pressing the gas pedal and the brake (but his braking skill is also in doubt or suck, so the guy who controls the wheel also controls the brake... And... the gas pedal as well).

Hi Robin, I'm sorry that my writing is not clear enough. I'm a normal operator, not a goofy. As a goofy he should glance back to his right shoulder to check his path as he walking backward. It likes you make a quick look back to the right corner of your eye to check. Then turn your eyes back to the monitor and subject. Switching your eyes left to right (goofy) as you walk backward. I use to quickly turn my head slightly back about 15degree and glance back to my right while walking backward; then turn back to normal. The number of turn is depended on the terrain and shape of the path. Cheers, Ken Nguyen.

He didn't have a good form. (just wonder if he took any workshop) Look at the video, his head is more to his left. He looks at the monitor and his subject on his left. He fully grabs the gimbal with his palm. The sled is off to the side (dutch) not nearly vertical. He is goofy, so his head should be turning more to his right. This way he can glance to the right to check out his path. With or without spotter, one should constantly check his own path before and during operating. Cheers, Ken Nguyen.

Never see this problem! I have 6 Mac at home and more than 2 dozen at work. Look fine on iPhone and my kid iPads.

My last resort is flying batteries with me. I never have any problem at the airport before. Just check them in. Here are my choices. 1 - I alway ask production to rent battery at the filming country including light stand and sand bag. 2 - Fedex. 3 - Fly. Cheers, Ken Nguyen.

Why don't you tell us your ideas first, then some of us might fill in the blank. Ken Nguyen.

For a doggy POV a Fig Rig or handheld (hold the camera CG at the camera handle by 1 hand) will do the job. Steadicam in low high mode also works fine in most cases. Cheers, Ken Nguyen.

Check out Chris's website, and demo video. Anyone with some knowledge of a Steadicam Flyer (I don't think Chris owns one) and plays with some knock off steadYcam arms can write a "How to Test a Steadicam" blog. Wow!! A genius!!! "BMW, Audi, Mercedes? Toyota, Honda, or Chevy? Curves? No! Test drive." Alex, based on what I just learned from "How to Test a Steadicam", all cars are the same. All have 4 wheels and 1 steering wheel. All can carry 4 persons from point A to point B. So, there is no different. Yeah!! I am also a genius about car. Cheers, Ken Nguyen.

I use laundry back pack which you can find every where in the internet or college book store for $14.00 or less. Cheers, Ken Nguyen.

I second Eric and Twojay.

Use F-bracket with longer arm post (12") to get the camera closer to the ground. I think a supper post is best. The fully extended cinelive is still too short to put that camera close to the ground. Shooting in the desert this time of the year you need more battery than 14. Last month, I used 20 of them. The camera and recorder swallow 100w. The heat of the desert also makes your battery drain out faster than normal. Cheers, Ken Nguyen.

I second Janice. You won't save much weight by using thin BNC. Not all thin BNC cables are well shielded. Signal might be interfered if walkie-talkie is used near by. Cheers, Ken Nguyen.

Simple math: F3d3 = F1d1 + F2d2 Where: F3 is the force to pivot camera weight about the gimbal (pivot point) d3 is the distance of camera weight center of gravity to gimbal. F2 is the force to pivot bottom load about the gimbal. d2 is the distance of the bottom load center of gravity to gimbal. F1 is the force to control/operate the sled (the feel). d1 is a distance from gimbal center to where we place our fingers. F1 is also a function of drop time. We set the drop time so the sled is bottom heavy. The force to put the sled back to balance is also F1. In neutral drop time, 0 second, F1 = 0, without controlling, F3 = F2. Let set the condition for our situation. - Camera weight is the same. - Feel force (F1) is the same. - Distance from fingers to gimbal center (d1) is the same. Then, F1d1 = B (constant/the same) = how we want to feel/touch the gimbal. F3d3 = B + F2d2 B = F3d3 - F2d2 Since camera weight is the same, F3 is the same. The only variables are F2, d2, d3. So, to have the same feel, we have to change F2, d2, d3 depending on the sled length. If d2 is longer, F2 must be less, or d3 must be longer. The case of longer sled. Less F2 means less weight on the bottom load. If d2 is shorter, F2 must be increased, or d3 must be shorten. The case of shorter sled. Larger F2 means more weight on the bottom load. I need to take my kids out for holidays. Will be more discusses (if needed) after vacation. Cheers, Ken Nguyen. Here is the link to the diagram: http://www.flickr.com/photos/98401677@N06/

This is not an ideal situation. What if your circuit is fried or popped? You tell production to continue with other shots and delay the steadicam shots till tomorrow? You can do this if they really like you or your are a friend of the director. Otherwise, the director will ask you not to come back tomorrow. You already had the chance to prep a few days before the production. What is your sled? If this is my situation, I will do the followings: 1. Build a power cable running outside the sled, connecting it directly from the second battery D-tap to camera and recorder. 2. Power both camera and recorder separately from a back pack battery. 3. Rent another better sled for the whole duration of shooting. Don't wait until it is going bad then take action. Cheers, Ken Nguyen.