Ants Martin Vahur

Thanks for pointing that out, Joe!

I don't work too often with Alexa Studio though, so no need to get another base plate thus far :)

I'll see if the next project will be Alexa, Plus, or Studio.. If the next one is also Studio, then I might consider the one you suggested.

 

At the moment we have an Arri WLC focus (integrated transmitter), Rednek HD transmitter (very small) and that's about it, so very decent configuration to fly with.

 

Fly safe!

AntsMartin

On a side note:

It only works with Alexa and Alexa Plus. For the Alexa Studio you need to use Arri base plate, because it's bottom is flat but still too far front from the CG of the camera.

I'm currently working with Studio and when shooting with the 35mm or tighter lens, when going faster than normal walking speed, I need to mount it with the Arri baseplate to get rid of the shake.

 

With Alexa and Alexa Plus I have been using cam-jam conversion plate which works out great.

 

AntsMartin

Thanks, Benjamin, for the thorough review!

My monitor sits in the customs, but from your review I would like to have the frame lines resetting fixed, flipping both axises would be a good thing to have. Image size settings should be named by exactly what they do, so you know if a certain setting is cropping, squeezing or doing something else funny to the image.

 

Or maybe I'll be so astonished by it when I finally switch it on so I forget about all these things you can't do yet . :)

I wasn't convinced until I saw "+bag as a gift". :)

 

I totally agree with Jerry. I don't understand what's with this Eric's primal urge to pick on some people like this.

You both are right, but talking about slightly different things.

Now imagine a 100 feet long superpost. Yeah, I know it's not possible, but for the sake of argument- imagine! If it's droptime would be 3 seconds, then who on earth would be able to control that? Imagine, or calculate, if you're able cause I'm not, how much mass it produces!

If you had a 100ft long superpost and had a 3 second it would feel just like your normal sized superpost as long as you changed your drop time with the gimbal position vs adding weight.

 

Jerry, yourself and Alfeo don't seem to get that. With the same camera weight it doesn't Matt how long your post is, drop time is drop time. 30 degrees a second is always the same speed.

 

What you all are confusing is camera weight. Post length has nothing to do with drop time, camera weight does. What Jerry should have said is that with the different camera weights vs rig sizes its harder to compare drop times, and then even that is misleading

 

Eric, I'll agree to your statement, that "a 3 second drop time is a 30 degree per second drop time" even though physically it's slightly different, because there are acceleration and centripetal forces involved, but for the sake of this argument it is not utterly important.

 

After some time of going through the old physics formulas, which some I have forgotten and the others knew briefly, I have come to two conclusions:

 

1) It is impossible by far to emulate the same effect with super post as with "normal post" when wanting to do tilting (or rolling (dutching)). Because the masses are so spread out, you would need to apply excessive amount of force close to the gimbal to do a tilt or roll move, regardless of the same drop time in seconds per 90 degree or same tangential speed between the "normal post" and mega-super long post.

 

2) It is possible to emulate with (mega-super) long post the same effect as with "normal post", if you're only doing a spatial movement and not going to tilt (or roll (dutch)).

That is only if your tangential acceleration stays the same, meaning that longer post has longer drop time in our language. Meaning spreading masses out from the CG in proportion.

 

My two cents..

I totally agree with Jerry. I don't understand what's with this Eric's primal urge to pick on some people like this.
You both are right, but talking about slightly different things.
Now imagine a 100 feet long superpost. Yeah, I know it's not possible, but for the sake of argument- imagine! If it's droptime would be 3 seconds, then who on earth would be able to control that? Imagine, or calculate, if you're able cause I'm not, how much mass it produces!

Hi!

 

I think it could be also due to the fact that in the field we almost never leave the monitor on for a long period of time while not moving the rig. It's constantly on the move, and motion is also cooling down the components. But if you leave the monitor or any other accessory on and don't move it then its temperature will rise much quicker unless there's atleast a breeze.

 

My thoughts..

AntsMartin

I think it shouldn't be in a forum talk-section but it requires some sort of an excel-type of list to mention all this great protiffenbartechprestonxcsmkvwalterklassenarri.. and other great companies. :)

 

AntsMartin

Phew.. I read the title of this topic and thought there was some issue with the performance of the monitor, that it won't be bright enough for our job or something like this. My heart skipped some beats, as I had just transferred the last part of the invoice some minutes ago.
But luckily going through the topic I realised, that it's not about the performance of the monitor. :)

 

I have also waited since november, but now it seems that the thing is coming my way very soon. Good things come to those who wait :)

 

But it is bright, right? The monitor I mean..

 

Ants Martin

 

P.S. Maybe te title of this topic should be changed into something like "factory defects" or "delays..", because "..gen2 failing to impress" implies that the performance is not good enough.

Hi!

I keep the arm post friction fairly loose. Not completely loose, but let's say somewhere around 50%. So I can easily tuck it in when I need to see the monitor from below the gimbal for example.

Then again, when there is running with one hand operating involved, I'd like to keep it quite tight, cause otherwise it'll immediately fly out and gimbal blocks the monitor and it feels strange to control it.

 

Ants Martin

Hi!

 

Does the holding bar, where the monitor can rotate around it's own center, come with the monitor, or is a separate accessory? I couldn't find it on the film-stuff, so I assume it comes with the monitor.

 

I have this type of post clamp:

http://www.transvideo.eu/sites/default/files/styles/uc_product_full/public/IMG_3947.jpg

So if I get the hexagonal yoke, I'll be good probably?

 

Ariel, I managed ot put an order to Europe. Just ignore the shipping options on the first page, choose your Europe location. And then on the next page you can choose the shipping option to Europe already.

 

All the best!

Ants Martin Vahur

Estonia, EU

Hi!

To me happened exactly the same thing two weeks ago while on a shoot in a close to freezing temperature shoot in Minsk.

Just got back from there, so now I'm starting to look ways to get it fixed. Probably Mr. Luna is the way to go.

 

On a visual check it seems that I can get away with new spring and few rollers. Looks like the case is not damaged nor bent. We'll see.

But, please keep us posted about what's happening with your arm!

 

All the best!

Ants Martin Vahur

Estonia, Europe

The operating style can be seen in this video at 0:23:

 

 

Very well operated indeed. He's probably a 3runner himself too. That would explain his physics.

 

From the original video I saw warping at 0:56. Looked like fixed in post.

 

Ants Martin

Hi, all!

 

It is very possible to shoot in very cold conditions, if you are prepared.

The gimbal works very well, arm too. I had my vest buckles broken though form the cold (-25 degree Celsius). But I guess also the fact that my vest is about 10 years old, could have helped..

About the monitor- if you have a LCD, be sure that it is warm. Cover it well (make sure you still see the image :)) and handwarmer is a good idea to through in there too. If the monitor is not warm enough you will get a huge lag up to 1sec. As we know, even 2-3 frames of a lag (delay) will diminish the chance to operate properly, so 0,5.1 sec of a lag will make the monitor kind of useless.

Green screen monitors works like a charm though- had no problem with it.

And you probably need just one runner for only delivering/charging the batteries. Probably you gonna change them at every 10-20 mins.

 

For the clothes- try to get yourself not too puffy, because puffy clothes will affect operating too. You don't feel your own body so well anymore, and the puffy clothes will obstruct your joints moving ideally for you.

 

And don't forget to drink water!

 

My 2 cents.

Ants Martin

Amando, are you coming??

I'm gonna take this workshop. I started operating steadicam 9 years ago, but have never taken a "proper workshop" yet.

It would be cool to see some people there who have done something already. :)

 

Ants Martin de Estonia

Well.. the music is catchy..

Hi, everyone!

 

So here is my story..

 

Sent him an e-mail in the end of January about faulty motor (M-one). We had several e-mails going back and forth about the shipping and fixing and all that.

I sent my motor to him in the end of January, he promised to fix it in about 3-4 days.

After the motor arrived to him, I never received any e-mails from him.

Tried to contact him for two months by e-mail.

In the end I started calling him and when I finally got to him, things started moving finally. But I had to call him every other or third day to keep the things moving.

He sounded very pleasant on the phone, but never replied to any of my e-mails anymore.

Finally 3 months! later I got my motor back in good condition.

 

So he's ok, but just acting very irresponsible. So you just have to call him constantly to keep him doing the job.

He's motor is top of the line but service is not a diamond level unfortunately, such as some other gems here, working in the steadicam industry.

 

Ants Martin

from Estonia- that is south of Finland!

I change quite constantly fore/aft adjustment, usually when I'm changing the length of the vest. Still in the range of a few threads though.

I very often fine tune between takes also, while wearing the rig- I loosen the bottom screw a bit, then swing the rig behind me and tighten the top screw- or vice versa.

 

I almost never change the side to side adjustment though. Only for going to the hard mount and back to the soft mount (vest). If I feel that it should be side to side adjusted when soft mounted, I check that the vest fits me perfectly, as it gets tilted sometimes if not buckled properly and then I just readjust my vest and it's fine again.

For me on soft mount the side to side is lower bit- 1/2 turns out and top bit is about 4 and a 1/2 turns out.

 

AntsMartin

Hi!

 

I'll second Alec- internal recorder would become obsolete very quickly. Remember when they used to do small tube TV-s with built-in VHS players? Weren't very useful as I remember. Maybe the first month when you bought them.

 

Let me know when you have the thinner version of 7'' Cinemonitor. Beer truck version is a bit too wide- you would have to walk with x-legs so you wouldn't bump into a monitor with your knees.

I would rather have a cube shape monitor.

And numbers for horizon- I'm also against.

 

So line me up in the que!

 

So far with the old Master monitor- beats all the LCD- until now.. :)

 

AntsMartin

 

 

Ant, it's not an internal recorder, it's a bracket for a Blackmagic.

 

The present size is not a problem and it's actually smaller than the 8" Tiffen LCD

 

Master monitor being the best? Not by a longshot, bit the Pro and especially the TB-6 kill the master's monitor

 

 

Eric, I said: "beats all the LCD-s.." ;)

I haven´t seen the TB6 with my own eyes, but from what I´ve heard, it must be a great monitor. I don´t have a doubt that it beats the Master monitor.

 

Bracket for the recorder is great!

 

And thank you for trying to "unpluralize" my name into an ant, even though it does actually end with an "s". So there´s many of me :)

 

Ants Martin

Hi!

 

I'll second Alec- internal recorder would become obsolete very quickly. Remember when they used to do small tube TV-s with built-in VHS players? Weren't very useful as I remember. Maybe the first month when you bought them.

 

Let me know when you have the thinner version of 7'' Cinemonitor. Beer truck version is a bit too wide- you would have to walk with x-legs so you wouldn't bump into a monitor with your knees.

I would rather have a cube shape monitor.

And numbers for horizon- I'm also against.

 

So line me up in the que!

 

So far with the old Master monitor- beats all the LCD- until now.. :)

 

AntsMartin

Ok, thanks!

 

I thought it was a different one, just wanted a confirmation.

 

I should probably anticipate the situation this time and get one for Epic already. Otherwise it happens like with Red One, that I am getting the power cable two years after working with it- I'm getting the Red One power cable in a few weeks.. :)

 

Ants Martin

Hi!

 

Is it different from Red One connector?

 

Ants Martin

Ouch!

 

That is really bad story!

 

Thanks for posting it though, Tomas! One potential new rig for me for the future is now definitely out of the equation.

I knew about their poor customer service and not sometimes malfunctioning equipment before, but your story puts it below any acceptable line.

 

Funnily enough- the problem you scarcely mentioned about the gimbal that sled is going out of the balance at 180 degree angle- I heard exactly the same thing about MK-V-s gimbal from a fellow operator in 2003- yes, that was 8 years ago!

So if they still haven't fixed that problem, you shouldn't wait for the SDI signal problem fixed probably with the V4 either.

 

As Mike said- whatever is the problem, they should never go this low and start yelling at the customer!

And Mr. Howard (hm.. this H looks a bit like a C..) should face the problem and deal with customers, who have this problem, directly and personally, and not have a figurehead, to avoid the problems.

It is even sadder because Howard used to be or still is a operator himself.

 

That said, I'll probably upgrade my Master Series little bit, and maybe in few years- new(er) Steadicam or PRO. Happy so far, and thankful to the Decimators and other cool inventions that help keeping my old rig up to date.

 

Best of luck you, Tomas!

Hope you come out of it alive.

Ants Martin Vahur from Estonia

Hi!

 

I posted this also to an ARRI digital forum.

I think it is very important for steadicam operating too.

 

 

--------

 

Hi!

 

So after 2 months on A cam / steadicam operating a feature film, I have few things to say:

 

1) It is a marvellous camera to work with! And the image quality (I'm not a pixelhunter) is truly astonishing. Especially the lattitude. It is finally like working with film stock.

The power system is genius! For changing the battery you don't even need to shot down, even though if you do, it only takes about 20 seconds to reboot.

But you can't make on omlet without braking any eggs so..

 

2) There's is one bug I found. Don't know, if it is unique to this particular camera or a general bug, but it concerns the "surround view" mode.

As most of you understand, it works in (at least) two actions: first it makes the image smaller on the monitor or viewfinder to bring more surround areas in to the view area, and then it changes the standard framelines to a "Surround" framelines, thus making them smaller too so they would be correct according to the image.

But now sometimes one or the other hasn't changed which means, that it has changed the frame lines but hasn't changed the image size, which means that now I would be framing incorrectly, as 10% of the footage I'm ignoring and letting the mic's and lights hang in, will be actually in the frame!

Then after cycling off/on the "surround view" in the option menu, it goes back to normal.

And I've noticed that it happens sometimes few times a week, and sometimes even few times a day.

 

We first discovered it, when I was framing by a viewfinder for a mid-close up and, then the DP from the other side of the camera was watching the onboard monitor, kept changing the framing, and after we were tilting up and down few times, I walked around the camera and noticed, that the framelines on the onboard monitor (MON OUT) are different from the ones in the viewfinder.

I don't remember anymore which one was wrong, but after taking off the "surround view" and putting it back on from the menu, made both framelines match again.

So the affect may be different for the monitor out and the viewfinder.

 

So.. as talk is small, I luckily managed to record this phenomen too, soo please watch this:

 

 

I recorded this with the IPhone, trying to pend between the viewfinder and the onboard monitor. At first as you can see, the bucket on the right side of the image, is in the "frame" on the onboard monitor, but on the viewfinder it shows that it is outside the "frame area" and within the "surround view".

And then when I change the "surround view" off from the viewfinder, it only changes the framelines, without affecting the image size, so the framing actually changes back to correct, and as I put back on the "surround view", now you can see, that the image is being resized too with the framelines for the correct framing.

 

Hope I was being clear enough.

All the best!

Ants Martin Vahur

Camera / Steadicam operator from Estonia

 

-------

 

 

For trivia I can add, that:

 

Steadicam Master with a 5 inch green screen monitor

Steadicam 12V to 24V converter

Master arm

Master vest

Arri bridge plate

Alexa body

Ultra prime 24mm lens

Clip on matte box

Cinetape

Bartech receiver, Heden motor

Decimator HD downconverter

Modulus 3000 transmitter

Audio wireless receiver

A small plastic toy car (about 30g) form a Kinder Surprise egg taped to the camera body by a boom operator.

Some cables and other stuff I probably forgot to add here

 

weighed about 34 kilos / 75 pounds

:)

Thank you, guys!

 

I'll look into these options!

 

Ants Martin from Estonia