Michael Wilson

Dax,

I have an older 3a topstage that I'm not using. PM me if interested.

Great. Thanks Jarrett. That email worked.

I'm going through the contact section on their website. Can you get me his email?

Anyone know how to get in touch with cinetronic? They are not responding to calls, emails or carrier pigeons.

I recently had some service done on my MK-V sled. They put me in direct contact with the machine shop that services and makes the gear. Those guys were pretty much always available and very informative. An added bonus was that when I talked to them about my sled having problems they actually believed me and would discuss the issues and ways to resolve them. Who woulda thought?

If you can connect a piece of string from top to bottom it may help with vibration.

Not an ounce of soul in those pulls between those focus charts.

Not sure if this is the same thing you're talking about. I noticed the other day some play in the side to side 1/4" allen screw bushings. You can tighten those bushings with a flathead screwdriver.

Btw if you go with Mkv electronics, go with the .5 versions. Like 2.5 and 3.5. They upgraded electronics a couple years ago to fix all the issues they were having I assume and added the .5 to the electronics that got the upgrades.

I've got some small projects for you. I'll be in touch.

I have an old 3a topstage for sale. Haven't really gotten any bites on it. I'd make you a good deal if interested.

I have never used V1 electronics. I had the V2 for a little while. I had so many problems with those electronics. Fuse would blow all the time, hdsdi would go in and out because of walkie activity. Once during a light gag, every time they would hit the light, I and video village would lose picture.

Now I have the V2.5 which apparently has more shielding and handles the power better. Haven't had any issues for over 2 years.

A suggestion for more aux power would be have a master sled to female ptap. Add a ptap splitter and you have 3 more aux ports.

I've heard PVC doesn't work and I can't remember exactly why. Someone told me they tried PVC and had to ultimately use delrin, maybe because of wear or durability.

Thanks all for reaching out. Got it figured out.

Anyone have any of these available? I broke my last one. I can have some shipped directly to you from Klassen.

loosecreek@gmail.com

Jessica,

I've never met you but your passion and energy comes across in all your posts on this forum. In a way I feel like I know a good deal about who you are. It sounds like you're having a rough time right now. Sorry for that. Keep your chin up. You seem like a great ambassador for steadicam ops and ladies in the field. FWIW

https://vimeo.com/86858909

Yikes! Did your arm shoot up? That's one of the things I fear is something like this happening and the arm shoots up and nails me in the chin. Lights out...

I love your commitment to accuracy. 15/16 of an inch

Thanks for the heads up.

I'll take them. Email me loosecreek@gmail.com

I'm in LA

Where are you located?

Found one.

Email me with quote for one day rental.

loosecreek@gmail.com

thanks,

mike

Seeing as the rig fails the 180 spin test and the drop test does it appear that I have more than one problem here? With the gimbal and with something else.

Either way the rig is going back to MK-V. Anyone else able to service this sled in LA?

I did some more testing. Made a nice little document with pics. I took the center post cable out for these tests.

The majority of the times the sled goes off balance is in the side to side. Everything is tight.

Steadicam Balance Test small.pdf

I took the entire sled apart and tightened everything. Going to do some more testing when I get back to town this weekend.

Base is very tight. Still could be the base. I mean why not.

So lets say its the center post cable? How would I go about correcting this?