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Katerina Kallergis

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Katerina Kallergis last won the day on September 15

Katerina Kallergis had the most liked content!

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About Katerina Kallergis

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  • Birthday 09/20/1982

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  • Rig
    M2, modified masters, modified efp, g70x, g50x
  • Location
    New York

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  1. "Undercutting" comes naturally early in your career. You do not have the experience quite yet to be charging what experienced ops charge. Make sure production knows why though, as you don't want them having high expectations. Also, don't take a gig if you aren't ready for it. Word travels fast which can either work against you or for you. Best of luck and you have us all for information and help. Also, nothing against Greg but taking a SOA workshop will also work in your favor. Many experienced ops to learn from, giving you exposure to different techniques from different people. Discover what works or doesn't work for you. You will develop your own style in time, generally a combo of what you have learned from the various instructors. Any questions, feel free to ask.
  2. I hear these are super cheap. Charles, not sure about the latency though. We'd have to test it out.
  3. It seems impossible (to me) to adjust the socket block with the weight on the arm. Usually, you can lean the arm closer to you or in the rest position to do this but in this configuration I did not find a comfortable sweet spot to make the adjustment happen. Also, it does manage to put the rig in the usual position but not much beyond it. So when starting a move toward that direction it is limited.
  4. Out of curiosity, I tried this yesterday. I found it very difficult to put on the arm by myself, and even if I were efficient I would not be able to do it nearly as quickly as the front mount. Also, I found it would be difficult to fine tune the adjustments on the socket block with the arm on. There was no good sweet spot to lean to. It felt very different with more weight on my right shoulder (operating regular) and the vest got crooked with the weight being at the back. My footprint also felt much larger than when front mounted. Even so, interesting to try and to each their own. This one just isn't for me. lockquote widget
  5. If they were selling a new rig for $30k, what year was that? In 2008, new rigs were much more expensive than they are today. That being said, it really may not be as good as you think it is. Of course there is more to look at in a rig but how's the gimbal? That's a huge factor. If you can't do it yourself, have the seller send you a video of it statically balanced on a 3-4 sec drop time and pointed in one direction then 180 degrees pointed in the other direction. What happens? If it doesn't stay balanced, that's enough to tell you it's no good. With no one around to service it, stay away. I'd stick to a used rig by a good company. Same test applies but if it isn't good, they can service it. Have you taken a workshop yet? Learning under someone? Self taught? How long? And everything Alec already asked. You have a friend in me... and pretty much everyone else here on the forum. -Kat
  6. Based in NY. Live broadcast since 2010. 

    I love teaching at the Steadicam workshops. 

    Contrary to what some may think, no, I do not work for Tiffen. 

  7. Justin, Your question is one that I think most of us have asked ourselves before diving in. If it really interests you, do it! It's better to pursue this with passion than anything else. I'll second what Alec said about the workshop. It will cost you money but it's a great investment and amazing experience in itself. I'd also buy a well-taken care of, used rig rather than a knockoff brand. -Kat
  8. Hi Kevin, What rig and arm are you working with? Everyone has their way of doing things. Try this. Super light touch with your operating hand when keeping your frame. If the rig is balanced correctly trust that it will stay that way with out you overcompensating with your operating hand. Arm hand can be as firm as you like. Footsteps should roll. Not flat feet of course. I operate regular. Walking forward I tend to have very short strides. Rolling from my left heel to my toe and then onto the outside of my right foot rolling onto my right heel. Then back to my left foot and so on. Backwards, it is simply rolling from my toes to my heels. Harder to explain than to physically show this sort of thing. I hope what I wrote is clear. If not, please let me know.
  9. Welcome. What would you like to know?
  10. I am very sorry for my delayed response. I will be much more active on the forum and have found a way to make it quick access from my phone. Something I use far more often than my computer. To your question, I much prefer having the gimbal as close to the top stage as possible. Try it both ways. Do the same shot and same movements, especially a big tilt, to see for yourself what you like. I believe you will come to like having the gimbal closer to the top stage. Much more control this way. Less chance of vibration from outside forces and a smaller arc on your tilts. Now there may be times that need to have the longer post. For example, I am very short and it would be another way to get the lens higher. I hope this helps you. Although I am sure Garrett has already explained it much better than I have.
  11. Patrick, Please please do NOT become dependent on the Volt. If you have as much passion as you seem to have (referring to your first post on this thread) you should learn to be a good Steadicam Operator without it. You seem to have great respect for Garrett and Jerry and the entire world of Steadicam, to learn without using the volt (as they had and most of us had to) would be a great way to express that respect, IMHO. Your fellow op, - Kat
  12. East Coast Holiday Shin Dig Josie Woods Pub Wednesday, December 20th 6pm-9pm Who's going? Please respond on the FB group. The link is below. --Fyi, food and drinks are up to you.-- https://m.facebook.com/groups/2247691628?view=permalink&id=10155045280096629
  13. Diego at www.MyCaseBuilder.com was great to me. I ordered new custom foam for my sled case. Designed it online with their software and then worked further with him on the wheel cutouts. Everything came out great and fit like a glove. Cost me $190 including the Fail Safe ($8) that they offer in case you mess up on the measuring. Very useful to me and definitely worth it. Hope this helps with anyone looking to do this in the future. Case with new foam 1.pdf DIY Program.pdf
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