Sam Morgan Moore

Pilot capacity 10lb minus standard monitor ? 10.5 monitor 4 lbs camera 2 lb lens 1bl batt 1lb Id say 90% chance it would not work (as I guessed !) without major fiddling and possibly a T conficuragtion - cam and bat up top monitor bottom (as opposed to the the standard inverted T configuration) now the Gh2 and 14mm auto focus lens... S

That looks perfect, good price certainly acceptable, no weight information, I might be able to re house it in something light and its discontiuned ! Of course using a 5d and 28PC lens only 'buys' me some weight on the total rig, typically I use the vlock batt up top to add mass to the top but I would not want the camera a foot above the gimbal! S

? I have that - not ok ! Seems like this (used) might be cool smallest transvideo I cant see the need for size , res or even colour accuacy when.. it wont be used for focus, I have decent eyes to see the composition, colour temp and exposure will be sorted before rolling using other methods Other brands apart from transvideo ?? Thanks SMM

Ive read that thread, the reason this is in the newb section is the low mass capability of my rig and the lower budget that I may be on also Im happy with a smaller feature set than would be required on a 'pro' rig Maybe there is just not a cheap solution S

Im realising one thing holding back the improvemnt of my operating is my reluctance to practice with a device that may not be usable when I want to use it like outside in the daytime My concern is seeing the screen My rig is 7d/5d/ex1 Pilot and Vlock battery I use the given the stock monitor and also a small HD DP1x both are rubbish in the sun I realise that I dont care about colour or even resolution, those things can be sorted, size doesnt really even matter green screen, black and white, SDef, I dont care Crop marks ? Ive got some tape nothing matters but brightenss and reflection I just need to see composition What monitor should I be hunting down ? SMM

My experiecne with small cameras (DSLR) is that low rotational inertia means I can unintentionally pan the camera of course practice helps but if you are flying a small camera you may want to consider increasing the rotational inertia of your rig for example I fly my 5d with a vlock battery on the rails which spreads out the mass considerably S

As a noob myself Ive got some OK shots with my merlin sitting in the back of my van This is obviously a little dangerous and I done it on private roads, strapped myself in etc In a smaller space you could try your merlin with someone pulling you in a wheel chair Add some stabilising software and you will get very good shots for the price my reel 0.32 seconds, van to car, 2'00 mins van to runner (no additional software BTW) S

Great fun to try a bigger rig as a newb and a lil film of the Tango in action..

Framing - means composition of the image IMO the rig WILL bob less when more loaded, but im a newb, technique is important as for pain that is configuration error or operating error of some nature S

I have the 7d on rails 30cm long I did have a diving weight at the back of the rails and the camera to the front that gives the long mass distribution I have now swapped the weight for a Vlock batt up top, and all the masses from my pilot and merlin at the bottom still playing with that config but it gives me a decent battery instead of the annoying AAs I bought with the rig S

You can and I have - its hard to do neatly - 500g dive weight is my weapon of choice for inertial tinkerings on stabilising devices of all natures, in terms o fhe inertia of the rig its dead weight After infinite fiddling with the BB and Merlin I just got a Pilot I bust the gimbal on my merlin and put jutter in my BB gimbal by over inertialisin them during the experimentations ! Aftermore fiddling with the Pilot (proper straps on the vest, smallHD monitor, Vlock batt, spirit levels ) Im begining to feel that I can begin to begin learning steadicam I agree on future focus technologies - its the reason I have not bought a hocus focus S

I have a BB and a pilot I consider the BB a nice handheld stabiliser 5d and 28mm is my preference I cant see you getting an 80-200 or monitor onboard ---- My opinion is that the Pilot arm doesnt work well until it has a larger load than the BB (or merlin) can provide ---- I also have a pilot which has plenty of options with DSLRs for monitors and heavier lenses ---- On the 80-200 - well im still a newb but that lens requires a high skill level (beyond me) and probably an expensive remote Focus Device ID get the BB and if you get the steady bug get a pilot at a later date SMM

1/4 BSW (whit)- the standard camera thread I think S

A bit worried about the leaning curve - get very worried I would say took me two months to even understand a steadicam at all others will say it takes years to become an operator the merlin is fun - bigger rigs are different completely I dont happen to like the merlin and vest buy a merlin to learn I would rent something bigger IMO a pilot is good to learn properly and rent if you need a bigger rig I dont see you can learn without owning - you need to spend lots of lonely evenings pacing your office or studio S

Fresh DV has a little video with GB.. The speed of booming up is pretty stunning (you see it on a monitor on the rig) FreshDV

Is is a steadicam ? Surely the hand away from the gimbal ruins control ? S

Is there a Tango Thread ? Pics ? S

Remember this is a newb operator with a 'super light' pilot and DSLR or EX1 rig that you cant even see more than a hint of image on the monitor on a sunny day - every little helps S

A further though on the HUD You could program your shot in say you wanted to to a direct track north it could give you directional advice too even add marks for turns and distance change it could even drive your FF ! S

Thank you for that test - useful That stanley app seems to have a display that looks like a level which would seem not more visible than a real display Is there an app that gives more of a heads up display style image That would be big and clear and visible from a distance - sepecially one that flashed green when you had it good ---- On the booming tilting perspective thing our model is rendered pleasantly IMO because if you are not boomed down for such a shot perspective would change the relative sizes of her body parts - in the extreme we all know that shooting someone with a 14mm from head height renders the feet too small - choice of height can also change a power perception between viewer subject - shoot a woman in heels from floor level and she looks domineering powerful and dangerous, shoot from above and she can look weak and available I was shooting a more pedestrian job today - an interview for a mini corporate, the MD was 6'5 - like me - I found the straight on perspective intimidating, which I thought would intimidate my viewer - his potential customers - apple box for me and suddenly he's looking respectfully up at his potential customers from a position of weakness that invites them to help him by buying his stuff S

Absolutely - there is no such thing as a correct aesthetic I love my PC lens and I love a straight vertical in shot A background to that comment is my stills business - which pays me decent money - I have hotel and architect clients - I can offer them a new service with my consistent aesthetic to the still and make some money from Steadicam while learning and importantly not lowballing experienced ops even an image like this.. I have 'boomed down' and shot the subject from its centre and maintain the perspective of the background (note the position of the pool) etc S

I mildly disagree - if lens is pointed straight forward then your verticals are good - my photographic backround seems make me notice this in compositions - I like my 28 shift nikkor ! The URL - indeed a little beyond my budget Thanks everyone for chipping in S

thnak you for the input is there a URL for the $$$ system ? S

which is how good compared to a $5 bubble ? IM not expecting miracles just a little more 'help' with my operating - wussie or not :) S

Thanks One of my 'strategic placements' is on my monitor, the other is on the stage for setup Unless the monitor is level which it is usually not but tilted at 45 degrees only the horizon level is of use And yes is it of use to me for attempting a shot say going straight down a corridor - no panning I think the Itouch sounds interesting and affordable as is probably the stanley I can imagine 'pro solutions' are out of my price game and/or need a monitor that is too (just a guess) In terms of masking the screen readers may be interested in the small HD monitor I have (not on my pilot yet) has sticky a anti reflection screen coatings - I have drawn not only the 169 aspect on mine with a sharpie but also divided the screen into a thirds based grid pattern The nikon D3S has exactly what I want - looks like a fighter cockpit and even goes green when you are level (the horizon bar is red when you are off in two axes and yeallow when you off in one axis) trouble is.. That is not my camera Its 720 so wont ever be my camera It doesnt show when you record ! Still the question is a device that can handle a pan ? S