Charles Papert

well there you go, sounds like a perfect setup for low-mode inversion then! It's an interesting time as seemingly thousands of thirsty DV afficiandos are cobbling together homebrew versions of the Mini35 (perhaps after completing their Steadicams and cranes, they needed another project). One of the bigger issues seems to be ensuring that the lenses won't fall out of the mount, or the mount off the adaptor, or keeping the whole thing from melting into slag on a hot day--there's a lot to be said about that bulletproof German machining on the Mini35. Maybe $10K isn't so outrageous after all. Another interesting factor for the DV gang is that for the first time, they are dealing in an arena where focus is super-critical. When an experienced AC sweats a focus pull such as on 100mm with the actor barging right at the camera, you know it's going to present a challenge for those who are used to a medium with a virtually infinite depth of field! And how to approach focus pulling for Steadicam--I will have to assume that next year's hot basement workshop project will be a remote focus device made for $14...perhaps the rotary volume control assembly from the stereo receiver coupled with the handheld remote??

Afton: I can send you "Hindsight" plus the behind-the-scenes video that also used to be up on the site, if you like.

If you want to read about the Mini being used in a high-end, high-profile situation, there's an earlier article I wrote for that same site--the Mini has progressed since then (as have the cameras) but it may have some interesting nuggets still. http://www.dvinfo.net/canon/articles/article84.php

The Mini does have a remote start port which can be connected to the LANC on the various cameras, it's a 2-pin Lemo. I asked about it once at ZGC, the US distributors, and they said no-one had ever ordered the cable...! The unit does not in fact have voltage regulation onboard; it's designed to run off 7.2v camcorder batteries (so yeah, 14.4v will in fact hurt it quite a bit!). Thus I had to use a voltage regulator with my Anton Bauer mod. P+S Technik is now selling their own version of the breakout box concept. If you have interest in renting my setup (which will accept a 4-pin XLR 12v source from your rig, aka Arri 12v power cable, and thus power both the Mini35 and the camera (or you can add a rear-mounted Anton Bauer battery instead which will improve the flying dynamics and power both all day long), let me know. This setup also includes a video DA which allows for having the camera supply video to the Steadicam and a hardwire to the director/DP's monitor simultaneously, rather than have said video loop through the rig which can occasionally pervert the level of the signal (my PRO rig does this, for instance). There are pictures and more information about all this at: http://www.hdvinfo.net/articles/jvcprohd/h...mini35test1.php Scroll down to about 2/3 way into the article.

Good point David. Some prefer to leave it burning all day (except for obvious periods like lunch) to avoid this. I've got my Mini set up with an Anton Bauer mount so the power drain of the "spinner" is inconsequential.

Yup. I think it's a pretty good package for Steadicam--a comfortable weight, and spread out length-wise to aid with inertia. I'm a bit biased because I own one!

There isn't any way to mount a low mode bracket on the Mini35 as yet, but you can always shoot it with the camera inverted and flip the image later, or use a cage.

I would say the most aggregious are: Taking too long to set up (holding up production) Forgetting to patrol the set for flags and lights etc. that won't be obvious in the monitor, but will show up onscreen Excess tweaking and fiddling between takes Requiring too many takes to get the shot

Actually there are foot pedals on the bottom deck that control steering. Don't believe Tiffen is in possession of one, no. It's a hoot to take for a spin!

Couldn't connect to the Mo-Sys site. As a point of reference, yet another system that has a Lambda interface is Hot Gears (www.hotgears.com) , which allows for simple (1-move built-in) or complex (with PC link) motion control as well as functioning as a well-appointed remote head. The 2nd generation system will have full FIZ recording and expanded mo-co controls. I had them build me a dongle to synchronize my set of Hot Gears with my Preston FIZ and FX unit (which already had the ability to record the three channels of lens control); works nicely.

Cheers Jerry, so glad to hear your property damage was minimal. It must be indescribable to tour the aftermath in the city. Tonight we watch concerned as that massive storm Wilma heads towards my girlfriend's parents in Florida--what an unbelievable season this has been. Look forward to talking to you, Charles

I'd like to give props for super-solid work in "Flightplan" to Andrew Rowlands (credited) and Jacques Jouffret (not credited). The two shots that took Jodie Foster down the stairs between levels of the plane, wow--probably the best stairs work I've ever seen.

Interesting to hear that Pelican is rubberizing their handles, guessing that the Storm cases have had an influence (they changed their latches after the Storms came out also). For those interested in the Storm cases, I'm a dealer for them and can line up a pretty good deal on them for the Steadicam gang. They can do custom foaming as well.

Bob: I hear you, but I wonder if for these 4-6 lb DV cameras, an entirely separate sled might be more appropriate than a scaled down full size rig, since you will be carrying around plenty of stuff that won't be needed for that type of camera (i.e. the HVX100 as you pictured). However, I'm sure we'll all agree that it's HARDER to operate a super-light rig as well as a full-size, and thus I think that DV/HDV/HDPRO (exhausting distinctions these days!) cameras in this class are best suited to having a weight plate added to bring them up to "optimal" Steadicam weight, which is of course debatable but I would weigh in by suggesting a total payload of 15-20 lbs for most types of shooting, and maybe 5 lbs less for run-and-gun, in-the-rig-all-day photography (or, to hell with it, virtually anyone who is hiring us to shoot like that isn't so picky about any individual move, so the lightest possible rig is probably best with that).

VAC (vac-brick.com) makes a nice little 4x1 VDA on a board as well as their multitudes of self-contained bricks with connectors. Markertek should carry it.

Visit the forum at chasecam.com; the product appears to still be vaporware and a lot of disgruntled folks waiting in line for a scrap of news about true availability, sadly.

Yup, trying my best to "hang the vest"...doing less and less of it, but since I'm 10 months into a home renovation, gotta follow the wallet for a while! Indeed, Proformers are on the endangered species list but being Nicads they'll likely be good for at least 3 years; by then this battery thing should be a bit better sorted out. The Proformer/Dionic thing is a good choice for all 24v film setups (I think) as it is a nice balance of weight and power. You can run all day (or more!) with that setup.

Edgar, how are you old friend?! I switched to an A/B system this year but haven't used it much to date for various reasons. I bought 7 Dionics and am collecting a few Proformers with the assumption to run one of each type for the camera and a single Dionic for video. I believe this is the formation that Jim McConkey has been using for quite a while and likes a lot. Certainly there are questions about the ultimate longevity of the Dionics but my feeling is that if you are working enough to wear out your batteries, you can generally afford the re-celling or replacement, and if the daily advantages are worth it... As far as not enough weight with the Dionics, one can always ADD weight to a sled as needed but if you want to go uber-lightweight for one reason or another (the 235, A-Minima, DV cameras, running shots etc), it's great to be able to do this.

4mat, your points are well taken. I was disappointed when I first saw the pix of this camera--I've gone from being a big Canon fan (had an Xl1 and then an XL1s) to a bit disillusioned of late. The form factor and design has a lot to do with this. Canon is determined to keep the shape the same as the camera that (rightly so) made them so big in the DV world, but I feel it's time to move on. It's very hard to accessorize these cameras because of the weird shaped back and rear connectors--having outboard spacers and whatnot hanging off the rear always felt like a hack job to me. I had a vision when the XL2 came out of a "pro back" that was matched in color and material and essentially snapped on to the backside like one of those docking stations for a laptop; relocating the connectors to the side panels and offering a nice flat back end for Anton Bauer or other battery types, perhaps a slot or mounting possibilities for wireless mikes etc. Thus the classic XL form could have been maintained but those looking for more could buy the "pro back" to create a seamless-looking larger camera (and guess what, that would have also made it properly shoulder-mountable AND less front heavy). But no, who listens to me...! The JVC HD100, in comparison, feels much more like a pro camera and has the controls in a fashion dictated more by logic than by a need to be "different" or sexy or whatever Canon is going after. The 24f designation has to do with Canon working a way around the HDV standard which doesn't nominally include 24p (JVC created their own variation with PROHD), so that by flagging frames and reconstructing on output a simulation of 24p is achieved. Early reports feel that it is really 24p by a different name rather than the CF 24 Sony debacle or even the early Canon frame mode 30p simulation. Bop on over to another haunt of Mikko and mine, the DVinfo.net, for all sorts of info on this camera.

"STEADICAM IS DANGEROUS TO YOUR BANK ACCOUNT" We all know that buying gear is bad for our bank accounts, right? So why do we continue doing that in spite of having a package that works? If you can't resist buying one more low-mode bracket or updating that arm or switching to a 2" post, here's a product that might help: "GETAWIFE". If you really try this product, you will be forced to quit those frivolous spending habits immediately (whether you want to or not!) Just by delaying your planned upgrade from a BFD to a Preston, you can pay for a room full of shoes, handbags and kitchen appliances...order today!

Andy: To address a specific point that Will brings up, ARE you using a D, J, or F bracket for low mode? (in other words, is the gimbal hanging upside down from the bottom of the arm, or right side up from the top).From what you describe (camera not that low and hitting the arm) it sounds like you might not be?

Sorry, I wrote "Mikko" instead of "Matt". If you invert the entire rig, you actually don't want to re-invert the monitor, or you will be looking at an upside down image. The beauty of this concept is that when you turn it all upside down, you see a correctly oriented image. The drawback is that everyone else looking at a remote monitor has to invert those as well; not dificult with a little handheld LCD, a bit more comical with a yoke-mounted 8" monitor (and really a pickle with 20" client monitors...) One advantage with this setup, other than the unmatcheable speed, is that you are assured a nice solid tiedown with the camera whereas a handle mount or other clamping bracket may slip or introduce vibration into the shot.

Mikko: The easiest thing is to flip the rig over and shoot upside down, then re-invert in post. Just a few seconds to re-balance the gimbal position and you're good to go, very impressive!

Well, yes no and maybe. It's not about the immediacy of the internet, it's about availability; being paid the rates that we are (or were), there are certain expectations of us and our gear, and as operators and purchasers of very expensive equipment we have the right to expect timely customer service (this is a response to the subject, not aimed at a particular company). Let no manufacturer forget what turned so many operators away from CP. Example: on location in New Orleans a few years back, my Preston FiZ handset was dropped. We were able to keep working using another Preston on the show, but I needed to rectify the situation immediately. One phone call to Preston (who are always reachable during working hours), and I had a backup system in my hands that same day, shipped counter-to-counter. And the repaired unit was back within the same week. Now THAT's service.

I developed a pain in my right hip from a not-so-great vest years ago. Since going to the back-mount Klassen, it's improved substantially. Pressure-point massage and stretches are the ticket for me. What vest are you using?