Carl Wiedemann

The low mode cage has been sold.

I'm selling a complete set of Antlers on Ebay. Opening bid is $700. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Steadicam-Antlers-complete-set-plus-dovetail-/171633783237

I’m selling a well-used PRO docking bracket on Ebay. I’m also throwing in a Cinema Products West dock and a rather minimal, but quite rugged, dock of unknown origin. All three are for 1.5 inch posts. Selling from Chicago, IL. Auction starts at $250. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Three-Steadicam-docking-brackets-PRO-dock-and-West-for-1-5-inch-sled-posts-/171628826420

I’m selling a Cinema Products style low mode cage, with twelve inch rods, on Ebay. This can also be used as a practice weight cage for small cameras if one attaches some ballast to the upper or lower plates. This includes a second base plate with some alternate mounting options. Selling from Chicago, IL. Auction starts at $200. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Steadicam-low-mode-cage-weight-cage-with-extra-base-plate-Cinema-Products-/171625859283

Two of these, joined at ninety degrees, could also work for fine adjustments... with smaller cameras. http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/554343-REG/Manfrotto_454_454_Micrometric_Positioning_Sliding.html

Madhava, Your bigger concern should probably be which camera is most appropriate for the job, rather than your projection of what your client may or may not perceive as professional. Your professionalism will be conveyed by the quality of the footage you deliver. If your client has plenty of useful and engaging footage for their edit session they won't be too concerned with the size and shape of the imaging device used to gather it. Carl

Having experienced the spectacle of the Cat Bounce I feel a bit foolish in doubting the clarity of the Fifth Soto's inquiry. Next time I will be more humble.

Soto Number 5, I'm quite intrigued to learn what information you're seeking and how you meandered into this area of film and video production. I have absolutely no idea what you're requesting and I assume that's because I don't know the jargon of business, sales or investment. I have an aptitude for obscure terms related to film technology, production, history and aesthetics, but investment related phrases are gobbeldygook to me. You'll need to either rephrase your request or wait for someone with a business degree to respond. And, you should probably clarify what type of devices you consider to be stabilizers and whether or not your area of interest is professional or consumer devices, or both. And a heads up: someone may also jump in and let you know that this is strictly a real names forum and ask you to change your user name.

The Marshall Transflective models will give you decent results in daylight relative to the cost, under $2,000. This is what I'm using on my Flyer LE. I think there have been some discussions on these boards regarding people using them on their Zephyrs, so you may want to do a related search. There are several versions of the transflectives with different input and battery options. http://www.lcdracks.com/monitors/model/V-LCD651STX-HDI.php

Seconding Victor: if you're using a DSLR, or other small cameras, then rods and a cheese plate can be helpful. I have a Zacuto base-plate with a nearly identical cheese plate (the Shape CP33 looks like a mimic of the Zacuto Zwiss Plate) that I use with small cameras to mount accessories as well as add, and redistribute, weight. I also have some horizontal plates (Z-balance) that mount between rods that are ideal for attaching accessories (Bartech, signal converters, video transmitter) with adhesive velcro and velcro straps, and bit of gaffers tape, if necessary. http://store.zacuto.com/Z-Balance.html http://store.zacuto.com/Zwiss-Plate.html

I've purchased four cables from this seller in the past month. Two Pro to Decimator (2.1mm) and two Pro to P-tap. Fast shipment and they seem well made. Yet to be field tested, but looking great so far.

The latest entry: the Wondlan LeopardIV comes bundled with a remote focus control and motor. For the price of a low cost remote focus you a get rig that will carry a 33 pound camera thrown in for free. $2,780 and free shipping from China. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Wondlan-6-15kg-Load-Wireless-Steadicam-Steadycam-Camera-Video-Stabilizer-/111047973804?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item19daf99bac

Pascal, I have the same issue on both sides of my Flyer LE abdominal spar (can I call it a spar?). I've left the velcro bound in place as I believe it will keep the fissure from progressing and it will hold the spar together even if the crack some day reaches the other side. You may be able to get a replacement spar from Tiffen (I was able to replace the chest spar on a Pilot that developed an even more egregious fracture and sheared all the way through near the shouder). The conundrum is, if you replace the piece you may develop the the same problem again. I have a 32 inch waist and when I tightly cinch the vest it flexes the material beyond what it can handle without eventually developing fractures. My Flyer vest may not be cosmetically ideal, but there's no loss in function. It's unfortunate that the Flyer and Pilot don't use the same material material as the EFP for the same purpose. I've had an EFP vest for 15 years and there's not a sign of a fracture as the material is much more resilient. Your best bet may be to reapply adhesive velcro in the exposed region and see if the fracture progresses to the point where it's a nuisance However, now that the velcro isn't in one piece you've lost your secondary means of keeping the spar in one piece and functional if there's an eventual break.

Tom, No doubt you had an instructor that told you, with great authority, that it was a Bayonet Nut Connector. I've heard the origins of the term BNC debated several times and no one ever mentioned the names of the inventors.

Tom, I've always been under the impression that the origins or the acronym BNC were shrouded in mystery. My preferred interpretation has been British Naval Connector. Bayonet-Nut makes sense, however Wikipedia states that it's named after the inventors Paul Neill and the Carl Concelman, thus the Bayonet Neill-Concelman (as opposed to the TNC, the Threaded Neill-Concelman). In any case it's definitely BNC and not B and C.

John, The first listing only has the bracket. The second is a kit with the bracket and a low mode clamp. The clamp can be mounted to the topside handle of a camcorder enabling the camera to remain right-side-up when operating in low mode. Whether or not you need the clamp depends the likelihood you'll be flying camcorders in low mode with a need to keep them top side up, rather than shooting with the camera upside-down and flipping the image in post-production.

Omar, I'll make an attempt… pending a more eloquent and experienced operator chiming in with a more concise explanation. When a camera is mounted on a tripod, dolly or track and properly leveled the horizontal frame lines (top and bottom) and the horizon of the landscape (or architectural equivalent) as seen through the lens are nearly parallel through the duration of a shot. As a Steadicam moves there is some degree of misalignment due to the nature of the mechanism. If this imprecision becomes obvious to the viewer (due to poor operating skills, poor balancing of the rig, heavy winds, lack of dynamic balance, etc) the phenomenon is often referred to as Horizon Roll (or as displaying a Rolling Horizon). Minute Horizon Roll is glaringly obvious to experienced Steadicam operators and more or less obvious to directors of photography, depending on experience and preferences. The average film viewer, given the current style of the modern action film, probably won't notice horizon roll until a set appears to be leaning on its side (think of 1966 Batman or The Poseidon Adventure). However, nuanced control of Horizon Roll is a vital skill to be mastered by a professional Steadicam operator, the learning curve of which makes me think of Sisyphus and his boulder.

Janice, The Flyer/Scout/Zephyr vests are compatible with the Pilot arm and are a very pleasing upgrade over the Pilot vest, with more buckles and metal and less velcro and flexible panels. This may be a better long term option over another Pilot vest which will continue to be rather aggravating to work with. Carl

Janice, I believe that the Internet Purchase Tax that you're describing is the same thing as what has been traditionally called a Use Tax. I know that there are people in Illinois making thousands of dollars a year in purchases from out of state businesses (such as B and H) who have never paid the Internet Purchase Tax/Use Tax. The state of Illinois would like to collect that money going back seven years. Whether or not they create a system to audit and collect remains to be seen.

Eric, Are you purchasing most of your gear from within your own state? Perhaps the state of California isn't looking at this as an area worth pursuing. People in the video and photo biz in the flyover states are more likely to find it necessary to make the bulk of their hardware purchases via distant mail order. The State of Illinois has issued many ominous communications regarding enforcement. Good to hear that California isn't going in that direction.

Alan's response confirms what I suspect is common in the freelance community. As an Illinois resident this topic is of particular interest to me. I wonder how many people actually are willing to make a public declaration of their personal practice. In the mid-west it has been common practice for freelance photographers and videographers to purchase gear from out of state businesses (like B and H in New York) and not pay Use Tax. The State of Illinois seems to be gearing up to enforce payments. A year ago they established an Amnesty Program (with a limited window for participation) for the payment of retroactive Use Tax going back to July 2004. I paid in full last year (the retroactive use tax) and am now making the regular payments for current out of state purchases. If the State of Illinois starts auditing Sole Proprietors and small businesses it will be very easy to see who is making large deductions for equipment and to request confirmation of the purchase locations. I haven't heard of any audits yet, but I imagine some people could take a big financial hit with the penalties and interest on top of the actual tax due. The looming enforcement has altered my purchasing behavior. I'm making more purchases at local businesses when possible to eliminate the hassle of tracking the use tax items (although as Chicago has the highest sales tax rates in the country, at close to 11 percent, I'd be saving a bit by paying the use tax instead, which is 6 and a quarter percent). This topic is not my area of expertise. I've had the same wonderful accountant for over a decade and I follow her advice so I can stay in full complacence with the ever changing tax rules. With California being in such a financial crunch I don't see why they wouldn't be taking steps toward enforcing Use Tax payments. Perhaps some business savvy Californian's can describe the current state of affairs in your area.

David, I experienced the same vexation when working with the Canon 7D regarding the necessity to unplug the monitor cable to check exposure and color temperature. I'm now using a Marshall Transflective with an HDMI input on a Pilot and a Flyer LE with the 7D. I run the cable down the front of the rig to get a very clean Hi Def image with rather accurate exposure and color temp' information (providing I'm looking at the monitor at a 90 degree angle). This is particularly beneficial with the 7D as it supplies a hi def' image even when the camera is recording (which I believe the 5D can only do in stand by). This may not be the solution you're seeking but it's worked for me on shoots for which I need to function as both Steadicam Op' and videographer. You could also mount the Marshall on the top of your rig, to confirm the image in hi def', and then go out of Marshall in SD and connect to the BNC at the top of the sled to have an image on the regular monitor at the base of the sled for framing purposes.

George, Regarding the EX cameras. I have used both the EX-1 and EX-3 with some success on the Pilot, but have found it frustrating as there's little room for accessories. After one adds a lite-panel, or a wireless mic receiver, the rig is maxed out and you're using your arm, rather than the springs to boom up. You might want to look into a used Flyer if you're doing a great deal of EX work. They're selling for as low as 5k these days, not much more than a new Pilot. Regarding the Pilot's total payload: It may be possible to add more than 10 pounds on the Pilot sled and balance it, but the arm won't carry it properly. For instance: if you placed a seven pound camera on the Pilot and added three pounds of accessories (or weights) at the bottom of the sled you would be at your ten pound payload limit. In terms of sled payload specifications, the monitor and battery are not included, but anything additional is, whether it's a camera, an accessory or deadweight.

Sam, I completely understand your concerns. I was directing you to a lower budget option as persons with Pilot rigs are frequently not inclined to make major accessory investments. But at $500 the AJA HA5 (HDMI to SD) may be the way to go if your Transvideo is giving you good daylight visibility. Carl

Sam, A video converter box that will do this job will likely cost significantly more than a basic HDMI monitor. You may be better off putting an HDMI monitor on your Pilot for DSLR shooting. You can run the HDMI cable off the front of the top of the rig to connect to the monitor below. I've done this with both Pilot and Flyer rigs. Running cables outside the post may be considered "old school", but if you set it up properly it won't interfere with your operating unless you have a need to shoot self-referential shots with the camera pointing back at yourself. The other benefit is that you'll have a high definition image on your monitor via the HDMI. Regarding the Decimator 2: I believe that it only has HDMI out, not in. So, it wouldn't resolve this particular dilemma. Carl