Mark Schlicher

From what I've read on other forums, the Teradek Bolt has basically built-in the cross-converters to an HDMI TX/RX that is probably very similar to the Paralinx Arrow. FWIW, it's apparently not a native HD-SDI transmission. It also promises the same range as the Arrow, I believe. Having worked with a Paralinx Arrow for a little while, the convenience of built-in cross-conversion to SDI and professional 14.4V power supply and connectors would be very appealing, to avoid the tangle of extra cables, voltage regulator, and converter boxes. That said, the Arrow is inexpensive and works as advertised.

Tiffen offers their "tally upgrade" for $1k that adds another power connection as well as a tally connector. I had received confusing info from Tiffen on whether the wiring harness is actually replaced or if the stock Zephyr harness has extra lines already. There is certainly room on the topstage for an additional power lemo, which I'm sure someone like Terry West could hook you up with. You should definitely be cautious about power overload and on the Zephyr. I've seen a Red Epic shut itself off from the momentary power draw of an analog BFD receiver being switched on. The simplest/cheapest solution would seem to be a lemo to p-tap and a p-tap multi. I keep these in my kit. Tiffen states the Zephyr wire gage as 22 AWG.

Pascal, It sounds like you are maybe confusing the signal type with the connectors? You can't tell the type of video signal by the connector type. SDI pretty much always uses BNC connections, but so do analog connections: composite SD, often labeled "video", and component SD or HD, (YPbPr). RCA video connectors are simply a consumer/prosumer-grade connection for composite or component. Adapters can be put on one or the other end of a cable to adapt to the connection you need. The Flyer's sled has a BNC connector, but it is SD only because of the monitor, which is SD composite only (and because the cable is not rated for the higher demands of digital signals). You need to research the 250 to see if it offers an SD composite output. If so, a short cable with the proper connector to the sled is all you need. Same with the 700. If this explanation doesn't make sense, then I recommend you dig in and do some online research to master a basic understanding of video signals types and connections.

That Betz Tools unit looks nice. Wireless standalone dimmer with manual or DMX protocol dimming up to a 75W fixture.

I was referring to the FLyer vest...the Zephyr vest, by comparison, is much more comfortable. Tiffen has been notorious for vague, inaccurate and incomplete information on arm lift capacities. Numerous threads here on that. Nevertheless, the important difference is total arm lift (including the weight of the camera, sled, monitor, AKS and batteries), and "net camera capacity", which is Tiffen's way of estimating how much mass (including the camera and all other AKS carried ABOVE the gimbal). This number is the "20" on the Flyer page refers to net camera capacity, and earlier Flyers has slightly lighter load limits. The "2" advertised is probably hype...you would need a weight plate to fly a camera that light. Realistically its lower weight limit is more like 5 lb net camera weight.

I measure the Zephyr/Flyer male socket block pin at 1/2" (12.7mm) diameter and roughly 1.65" (42.0mm) long. I have cheap calipers, so YMMV. Hope that helps. That arm looks like a close copy of a Zephyr/Flyer arm...I don't see much that resembles G-series arms. Out of curiousity, what is the rated lift? Be aware that the Flyer vest, at least in my experience, is pretty uncomfortable at the top end of it's range (19lb of camera payload-which probably equates to about 25-28lbs of total lift, I'd guess).

Victor's right. If the unit doesn't power up from your unregulated cable you have a gen 1. From BM's Director of Worldwide Support: "If it says HDMI to SDI 2 on the the serial number it is a Gen 2. If it doesn't have the 2 on it, then it is a Gen 1" The Switronix cable will do the trick. Worth mentioning that it's over 50% of the price of a brand new converter with the wider voltage input. But if you have the converter already and don't mind the extra wiring gak, it's a reasonable way to go.

Yes, it is cheaper to by a Marshall separately. You may have to buy an XLR to lemo power cable (custom or from Tiffen) and SDI cable. The bracket is not the same, but is a standard 1/4-20 threaded hole. I bought a simple neoprene washer to help add a little friction. A "star" lock washer would work too. Maybe not quite as sturdy as the Tiffen bracket but so far no problems here. I "table" the monitor against the horizontal tube most of the time anyway.

Agreed. I tested the longest Freesh Extender (12"?) with a 18lb broadcast camera and didn't feel at all comfortable with the physics. Spoke with Peter and he gave me the same caution as his post. Since then I only use the shorter post extensions, only rarely, and only when the camera is not near the high end of the weight range.

Some BM non-heavy duty mini converters (such as HDMI to SDI) used to be <14V only but have been redesigned with the wider power input, so they exist in the wild in a "gen 1" and "gen 2" flavors. Only way to distinguish is the serial number or by testing.

Adam is in Poland...what currency are we talking about here?

They are probably based on the same chipset but probably have some hardware and/or firmware differences. This is also probably true of the Teradeck product. Obviously the Bolt includes a more robust power connector and the SDI conversion, as well as the ability to use multiple receivers (which is also promised soon for the Paralinx Arrow.)

The G-Zoom Bartech edition does indeed only work with the analog receiver and motor, but it works splendidly.

As it happens, there is not a simple answer re: Blackmagic converter, but I have been recently researching and here's what I have found. 1. The BM converter currently comes in three flavors: original casing, heavy duty casing, and heavy duty casing with battery. According to BM, all three versions of the HDMI to SDI mini converter currently will accept up to 31vdc. They are based on the same electronics inside. 2. Before the heavy duty and battery versions were introduced, the original casing model was designed only to accept 14V or less. BM now calls these units "gen 1". When they introduced the new units, they also put the new electronics into the old-style case and called them "gen 2". They look the same as gen 1, but can be identified by a "2" at the end of the serial number. So there are two versions of the "original" BM HDMI to SDI mini-converter that look the same but accept different voltages. 3. This is the history of the HDMI to SDI converter. Different converters may have a different history...BM states on their message board that they have been migrating all of their mini converters to 12-31V input. 4. I own a gen 1 original BM converter. I have a Canon 60D and it handles the resolution drop just fine (takes a second, but it works.) I have installed the latest firmware. I have heard (but can't confirm from experience) that some BM firmware versions for mini-converters do not handle the resolution drop. 5. I also own a BM Hyperdeck Shuttle (first version). It handles the voltage, but does NOT handle the HDMI resolution drop when recording. I've been told it can't be upgraded to sork. Hope this helps.

About $1200 USD. I wonder where this is actually made and sold. It's priced in South African Rand currency, but other countries in the region use the Rand also. It is impressive what people can do with very few resources by western standards. For instance, life-saving bio-sand water filters in Zambia, hand-built out of sand and concrete by teams of workers who walk up to ten miles to work.

I believe that it is correct that Tiffen offers extended arm posts for the Zephyr (that's what I was told), however it is not a quick-change like big rig arm posts so not so useful on set. I have a set of the "Freesh Extenders " and have found use for them from time to time.

Very unlikely anyone on this forum will have experience with your specific rig, which is not used by professionals. The general answer to your question is that the two arm sections should be adjusted so that the camera sled "floats" roughly level...and that neither arm section has greater tension than the other. To test, you should suit up, with a camera attached and balanced, and lift the sled all the way to the top, then to the bottom, of the range of travel. Both arm sections should hit the limits of their range at roughly the same time. When you let it float using a loose grip on the arm, it should settle at roughly the middle of the range of travel. Rather than trying to figure things out yourself, you should study and practice the general principles by purchasing the Steadicam Operators Handbook, and the Steadicam EFP Training DVD (both available from Tiffen.) You may also download the Steadicam Pilot operating manual from the Tiffen website. Though obviously directed specifically at their rig, it also covers exercises and general operating principles that apply regardless of the rig. Good luck.

Tiffen's latest systems configuration document specifies "net camera weight" for an A2 with G50x arm to be 30lbs. Same arm on a Clipper rig is rated 35lbs. Assuming that the Clipper sled weight is similar to the Archer sled (or probably slightly heavier) it seems safe to infer that the Archer2 gimbal is the limiting factor. It also means that you could probably lift 35lbs of camera/AKS on the A2, at the possible risk of damaging the gimbal. Looks like Tiffen has started using the "net camera weight" method of specifying system capacities up to their pro rigs (they've been doing it in the consumer/prosumer line for awhile). For an apples to apples comparison, the G50x total arm lift capacity is 50lbs, the (discontinued) G40 is 40lbs, and the Zephyr arm is unofficially around 36lb (Tiffen doesn't publish the total arm lift for the Zephyr arm). Just a guess, but I reckon the A2 sled weighs about 4lb more than the Zephyr sled.

Welcome to the forum. Zephyr system is all engineered together so that the arm, vest, and sled all reach their maximum capacities at roughly the same weight limits. No advantage to trying to work around this. If you upgrade the arm, you may max out the sled and/or vest. If you upgrade the vest, it is wasted capacity. Alternate bigger sleds are generally heavier so you lose camera-carrying capacity with the existing arm/vest, etc. It's a system that you sell if you outgrow. Also, you will be asked by a mod to change to your real name, it's the rule here.

A data point: I have a first generation Blackmagic Hyperdeck Shuttle and have tried to use it as a HDMI to HD-SDI converter with the 5D Mk2 and Canon 60D. It does not work...it can't handle the switchover to the downconverted output when recording. My BM HDMI to HD-SDI mini-converter handles it fine. BM support basically shrugged their shoulders...said that the Canon is not sending a handshake signal when the HDMI downshift happens...the mini-converter can recover but the Hyperdeck can't. Both units work fine with the 5Dmk3.

The Mini arm is not a very good arm to begin with. Adding a 3-5 lb weight for lighter cameras will maintain the meager capabilities of the Mini arm. Looking at the picture of the arm, I strongly suspect that any spring-based modification will degrade the arm's operation and waste a lot more time than simply adding a little weight.

Perhaps a bit lost in this discussion is that the Mini is essentially a Flyer (gen 1) sled with a wonky pre-Flyer arm. As I remember, these springs are fairly lightweight, like you might find on an old wooden screen door or a Luxo lamp. Removing a couple of springs might work fine, and considering the arm has almost no market value, what's the harm in experimenting? Don't have firsthand experience, other than having tried on a Mini a couple of times. On the other hand, the advice of adding a small weight plate (when needed) is good for the reasons stated. Two or three pounds is probably all you need (mount up some rods and maybe a mattebox, add a rod-mounted battery plate with a dionic, and you're there). The Mini/Flyer sled -might- be bottom-heavy with a lighter camera, but my guess is that it is within a workable range, as the bottom of that sled is very light by nature.

My Zephyr originally had enough slack to swap the position of the "HD" and "SD" connectors on the top stage, so I did (per a tip from Peter Abraham). Later I sent the sled back to Tiffen for the tally upgrade and when they added the tally connector in the topstage, they swapped the video connectors back to standard position, and now there is not enough room to move them around anymore. I had bought a hirose-to-BNC/power cable from Terry West when I bought my Marshal HD monitor, and I've used the trick of running HD-SDI through the "SD" connection to the monitor via this cable and it works fine. The signal strength indicator isn't as high, but it's still in the 80's and I haven't had a problem with it. Side note: when you buy the tally upgrade this cable is replaced with one that is similar except it has tally signal wired into the hirose and a connector for a tally LED. Other options: ignore the hirose cable and use the supplied Tiffen lemo-to-XLR cable (or buy another one if you need the Tiffen cable for your camera power on the topstage). Or power with a p-tap cable. In either case, use the HD video lines. The advantage of getting a hirose video/power cable: having access to the second video line can be handy for needs like program return, monitor loop-out, or video transmitter.

Yes, buy a spare socket block from Tiffen or just borrow it from your vest in a pinch. The screw hole pattern is the same between standard and Zephyr socket blocks, so any Garfield mount with a standard hole pattern should do.

You should be able to wire up a p-tap to 2.1mm adapter for less than 20 bucks in parts. Use the 5v converter that comes with the Paralinx. Am I missing something about what you are trying to accomplish?