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Santiago Yniguez

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About Santiago Yniguez

  • Birthday 09/11/1974

Profile Information

  • Rig
    Tiffen Film Master
  • Location
    Glendale, CA

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  1. For Sale $6,000.00USD A very well taken care of 3 channel Preston follow focus. Case and pouches are included. Buyer will assume any and all tax/shipping cost. There are 2 cables that I made to power the MDR off of my sled. If you let me know what sled you have (if you have one), I can alter the cable for you before shipping it. Follow this link to see more pics! https://www.facebook.com/groups/forsalecameraassistantaks/permalink/2380915348645899/?sale_post_id=2380915348645899 Includes: MDR2 Handset with TX analog microforce X3 DM1 motors X2 battery Chargers x5 Preston batteries x2 shorty microforce cbls x1 10' microforce cbl x2 4pin XLR to 4 pin lemo mdr pwr cbl x2 2pin lemo to 4 pin lemo mdr pwr cbl x2 ptap to 4 pin xlr mdr pwr cbl x3 coiled mtr cbls x2 mtr cbls x2 command cbls x2 OSHA cbls multiple dog bones for mtrs multiple 15mm/19mm inserts x2 pana iris gears x1 2B lemo connector for s/s cbl extra anttenas
  2. Can anyone help me figure out how to dynamic balance my Christmas tree? The ornaments seem to be coplanar, but I'm sensing some vibration in the Angel topstage. Move the pevy speaker ornament lower and the stratocaster to a longer branch. you should be good after that.
  3. Please, Please buy the weight cage when you can. treat the weight cage like you would if you bought any other piece of accessory for your rig. It may cost you a little bit, but worth it. In the grand scheme of things, probably one of the cheaper accessories you buy. It'll be more than just a practice cage. Like Ron said, it'll come in handy for your DSLR shoots and all the other prosumer cameras that'll be coming down the pike. Can you imagine if you showed up to set with a couple of weights to counter balance your rig? Silk hat on a pig... Good Luck! Santi
  4. If your REALLY desperate, you can get a couple of free-weights (5-10lbs. make sure they're the weights with the small holes), 1 large washer with a 1/4-20 hole, and a long 1/4-20 screw with a button head. The length of the screw is determined by the thickness between the dove-tail and the camera. you lay your weights on top of your dove-tail, the washer on top of the weights and your camera on the washer. Your probably lookin at $30 all in. This my friend, is ghe-tto. It'll tide you over till you save up the cash to get Janice's kick-ass cage. Please, don't use this as a permanent substitute for her weight platform. Janice's are more functional and look nicer :-) Good luck! Santi
  5. Hey Harris, For most of the channels we use, we're in the 400-900MHz channels on UHF. 2.4 is in the GHz. So they're far apart on the wavelength spectrum. As far as interference, in a nut shell, its all environmentally dependent. Honestly its very hard to compare the two. UHF is good for short, line of sight distances. If you know your in an environment that has "heavy microwave", UHF might be the way to go. But how are you gonna know that? There are devices that read whats floating around, but are you really gonna have that in your kit? The other day I was practicing with a friend that had a titan and I had a UHF unit. We were going the same distance and mine was rock solid. His had break up throughout the move. Not to say the Titan sucks, it doesn't. Here in the US, 2.4 is a VERY saturated frequency. On set, even more so. I believe the Titan has 4 channels to switch to. I had 30. I had places to go to, he really didn't. There are so many variables as to why one works and the other doesn't. In this case the house we were in could have had a 2.4 wireless phone or the wireless internet unit was probably on 2.4. Having higher gain antennas to switch to might have done the trick. If you want to see around corners, the UHF cannot compare. Its mostly line of sight. If I'm using UHF, I make sure my unit is on the top of rig. The least amount of obstacles between the antennas, the better. You'll never get interference between UHF and a wireless follow focus thats on 2.4. My only concern would be be if you had a Bartech which lives in the 900MHz range and if your VTR guy has his own TX/RX system that is on the same. If I could afford it, I'd go with a 5.8 microwave. Its safe and legal to use in addition, not as saturated as 2.4...especially on set where it counts. Hope this all helps
  6. Hey there Haris, the first will be FGG.0B.304.CLAD52 if you want a strain relief back nut, add a "Z" at the end of the CLAD52 The second will be FGG.1B.303.CLAD52 http://intra.lemo.ch/PartSearch/SinglePartDisplay/5CsAAACkTxFqenR6SG5pZW1sDwA At the bottom right hand corner of that page, you'll see a thumbnail of a catalog. That has all the info you'll need on lemo connectors. Don't know where in Europe you can buy these. I'm sure the catalog has that info. Good luck! Santi
  7. Hey Eric, You willing to break up the set? Just looking for a fin. Santi
  8. Hello all, Was hoping anyone out there would have a g-zoom or something similar that I can borrow for a one day shoot tomorrow in LA. Thanks in advance, Santiago Yniguez 818-445-8029
  9. Hello Robert, You have the right idea with putting it on top....or at least to where your antenna is poking above the camera body if you have to Velcro on the side of the camera. The idea is to always have "line of sight" with your antenna. If your modulus is at the base of your sled, only one side of the antenna is seeing your receive antenna....granted your body and sled aren't facing the opposite direction. Think of all of your wireless pieces of equipment as "flashlight technology". If you have an object in the way of the flashlight, (transmitter) you won't be able to see where you want to go. A friend of mine just recently had some weird ghosting lines when he attached his modulus on the side of a RED. When he lifted the modulus away from the RED, the lines went away. Since then, he made a riser that keeps the unit away from the camera its mounted to. Basically, its a 4-6" rod with a 38ths thread on one side to thread into the top of the camera and a plate that connects to it to mount the modulus. Since then, I've stolen his idea and made one myself (thanks Scott!). The small swivel bracket can be purchased at modern studio equipment as well as the baby plate. I spent about $40. I also bought a 6" baby pin for some height variance. The better you have your antenna above people's heads, the better your signal will be. Hope all this helps! Santi
  10. Hey Mike, You won't find a screw that will go through both the dove-tail and steel plate. Unfortunately, you'll need two different types of screws. I dunno if you live here in LA, but if you do, you can always got to film tools and pick up the dove-tail screws. A little expensive but a must have for your kit.....both 3/8-16 and 1/4-20. When you have your friend drill your 1/4-20 and 3/8-16 holes, make sure they are counter sunk so that the bolts head ends up flush with the steel plate. You can find these bolt anywhere....lowes/home depot/local hardware store....etc. So, you'll screw your bolt threw the steel plate and into your camera. Then attach your dove-tail plate to your steel plate. Then your off and runnin. Hope this helps! Santi
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