Thomas K. Jensen

The Fawcett vest was really cool. I have bever been a big fan of the Ultra Vest, because it doesn't fit me that well, but this vest was just a blast. On the slow walk, the pivot helped alot, and I also took a run with it, and at te lock off I couldn't see my breathing. I am looking forward to september, when it should be ready for shipping, to see how much better this product will be then. Congrats Chris. Great work.

If you can, then make a cut in the middle of the whip. Then you don't waste the first part of the shot, if you mess up the end og the whip.

A local tv-station I'm working for, has a SK sled (with a new monitor) and they bought a used G-50 arm and Ultra vest. It works fine.

Yes, you can drill a hole in your gimbal handle for the low mode bracket. Jerry mentioned on the workshop, that if you have an older system (or in your case a system without the low mode hole) you should just drill one.

Maybe I'm asking a stupid question, but I have never used gyros, so please bear with me. Where do you mount the gyro below the gimbal? Towards the lens? How much stabilization does one KS-4 give you? And when would, and wouldn't you use it? Sorry if I hijacked your thread, Sandro.

Take a look at The Steadyrig site. http://www.steadyrig.com/prod_Arms.html

Hi Montay. I assume that you have tried to talk to who ever sold you the rig, and he/she is not willing to refund some for the repair? I myself wouldn't try to change something like that in my own arm. Not saying, that you can't do it, but I see my gear as a car. If it's broken i send it to the autoshop, so they can have a look at it. If it's lubrication and other small things, I do it myself, but don't like to experiment with the thing I use for a living. (or drive around with my family in) I would give tiffen US a call, and ask them for a quote and maybe also Luna.

Hey Tomas. It takes a lot of time to learn the skills required to operate steadicam well.As everyone else has said, take your time to get to know your rig - practice the line dance, read the steadicam handbook and watch the EFP video. And just use your eye to judge if its hanging vertical in both side to side and fore and aft. No need to get all crazy about dynamic balance.In almost 90% of the shots you need to do, it doesn't have to be in DB. And if you want, you could fly to denmark, and I'll be glad to give you a day of training. Here is a link to where you can buy the book:Steadicam Operators Handbook The EFP video can be ordered from Tiffen Good luck.Thomas :)

I agree with you all. But some of the best operators in the world operates with odd hand grips... For example, the best op in Denmark, where I live, operates with his index finger above the gimbal. And Larry McConkey operates with a death grip... So I guess what I'm trying to say, is: there is no WRONG hand grip - only normal vs not so normal :)

I'm really sorry for this guy.He obviously bought some gear that doesn't work :-)And with all the effort he has put in to balancing "his shit", I can understand his frustrations.And then to make matters worse. He also got the compact vest. Poor guy :)

Sounds great Peter.I would love to be on the "tester-list"

Hi Sanjay. Funny, I had the same experience with my Titan HD system. The image was fine within 5-10 meters, and then the image became more and more noisy like an old VHS-tape. The setup was the receiver 4 meters up a alu-truss - with one 10dB Rod and four normal antennas. and the transmitter on the back of the camcorder. We narrowed it down to, that it must have been some radar-interference from a nearby military base by the harbour, where we were shooting. I upgraded to the new firmware, and I haven't seen the problem since. I have noticed that there's not as good coverage outside, than inside a building.

I wish I had asked the forum before I just jumped in and bought a low budget rig - but I didn't. So this is why you want to buy a solid rig, that is tested and professionals use all the time. Well, the Tiffen rigs are great quality (there are other brands that are even better, but not in the under 10k segment) 1. When you are adjusting the balance, the tiffen rigs holds the position when locked down. The low budget rig I had, would shift when I locked it down, so it was impossible to get it into static balance. You should be more than lucky to get it near. 2. The Tiffen vest is much better quality, so you can use it for longer periods, without it rotating out of position all the time... 3. Tiffen Arm is Iso elastic, and it performs nearly as the big arms 4. The wirering is professional, with real professional connectors. 5. The build is just much better... I really hope that you take the advise your'e given. If you buy low budget gear, you will waste your money and in a short while you will end up selling it again and upgrading. I know i did and lost the money I spend :(

I would not buy any of the two rigs. Save up some money and buy a Tiffen rig (Pilot or Scout) Or the Zephyr is even better as you can handle more cams.Another advantage is that when you decide to upgrade, you get alot more for the used Steadicam, than you will for a non steadicam brand.

Was just checking your website for pricing on the pro-device, but it's not there yet? When are you shipping HoFoPro's?

AB's are so 80's :) The battery you bought will last a long time, and there's more power on them than the old Anton Bauer ones. We have four of these China-batts (190w) and they will power our two Panny 2000's for a whole day of shooting. For steadicam use, i use four 160, like the ones you posted a link to. I have done a number of jobs with Panasonic 2000, Bartech focus and transvideo Titan HD and just used two batts for a whole day of shooting. The 190w batteries are 5 years old, and works great.. 160w's are 2 years old, and still like new.

You can easily setup Vimeo not to show all the icons when embedding. Also you can costumize the color of the controls and the most important, it plays on all platforms - even iOS (just remember to check the "mobile version" button)

The motorized stage is very handy, but you don't need it. I use mine to balance the sled, holding the remote in one hand, and a cup of coffee in the other :) And sometimes i use the memory buttons, while shooting, to trim the balance if i for example need to shoot downwards and back again to normal. But you could just change the drop time to neutral and the sled is just as easy to operate. If the A2 comes with a G50 arm now, I would go for that. Later you can upgrade the monitor and the batts are less expencive to buy another place.

The differences are Archer 2 comes with the G-40 arm, and there are only few aks in the kit. A2S and A2SE are almost identical. G-50 arm, Motorized stage (S= fore/aft) (SE= side-side and fore/aft) Lowmode kit Stand Archer 2SE also got: Leather LX vest Power Cubes IDX, and Charger Thomas :-)

Vest is sold!

<br /><br /><br /> I have sent you an email.

I'm selling my two year old Ultra 2 Vest. It is in very good condition, and I'm only selling, because I bought a new one Price: €2.200 ($3.000) Its located in europe, and I will ship anywhere.

Can I use the arm with my own Steadicam ultra vest, or is the socket block smaller, like the Flyer/Scout?

What about this one from the German company, Baer-bel http://baer-bel.de/Product%20Highlights.html

Hey, let's do that. I will be there 9. and 10. september. Thomas