Janice Arthur

Matthew I think home built stabilizer website is the place to get this advice. The price point you want is generally below the level of rigs here as u have found. The arms and vests you have found seem to be it, go with them. Everyone (probably ten requests in the last month) wants cheap cost and high value and no manufacturer can do it. As I'm sure u know as you push down price of gear you deliver to your clients the less and less they will pay for your services; Catch 22 and it will finally be an amount that no one can make a living on. Good luck with your career. Janice

Hi all; Except for a helmet on the op and maybe gloves or knee pads I was more worried when he was running with both arms used on the first video. Running, as we know without the use of your arms, is very hard/dangerous. I think running or some vehicle assisted steadicam shot would have been a monster. The roller blades I think are a nice piece and the op can skate well. The lob sidedness of steadicam has always made it a hard device to run with was my opinion over the years at least the lifting here is done evenly. Let's see if anyone else can use the device? Janice

Hi all The first steadicam must have looked funny too back in the day They spent a lot of time and energy to make it work and I see it as another good effort. On my phone it seemed fine but its Friday so maybe I didn't see what u saw? I see device as helping people with limited arm lifting for daily life like veterans? Peace to all Janice

Hi all; Our man Ted Churchill and a couple of other ops (maybe Larry McConkey too in his early days of operating did a couple of days) worked on Ghostbusters and for Ted it was a big deal. They took over a couple of big streets in NYC and half buried cars and for its day was an enormous undertaking. (Many other details, I've forgotten but I'm pretty sure Ted did the library scene.) Identifiable Steadicam shots in movies as whole masters of a scene were rare back then. Others, including Charles Papert, had many awe filled moments hearing the stories. I can only smile when I see the film which is in theaters this weekend. The movie was and is great fun. Remember to take a look. Janice

Hi all; I like all the input. Ive reconsidered many things I do in small ways to do lo-mode better. I find it tedious to go to poor-man's when ACs have their monitors and Panatapes at the absolute highest spot over the camera. Now low mode either requires complete removal and/or repositioning which is a pain and kills time to getting there fast. I do like the idea of the starlite monitor that hides under the lens in high mode, very clever. Janice

William; Its always been said that speed to low-mode was essential and operators had to have a plan to do it efficiently. I've had periods of great success going quickly and periods where it was miserable every time it seemed like. Lately these LCDs and maybe you can move the monitor or not and maybe it was daylight viewable or not made low-mode even worse. Now as I get less patient with crap to do in a day and longer lenses the two don't work well together so I thought I'd see if I could figure out how to make my planning better. I always wondered why with my set ups even with the easy flip monitor brackets I still had to physically move the monitor arm to get an optimal position and that always made me crazy as the directors etc start tapping their feet. I see opportunities with the newbies to figure out stuff and maybe just have fun discussing the subject. I also see that now with even shorter time between shots its important to have a plan. Its always been my little dream to have a flexible arm holding the monitor so that you could just twist it to the right position while wearing the rig but so far monitors have weighed too much; maybe now that could be a new product? I'm always trying to save a 'favor' from the AD when it does take longer than I promised for some reason so the 15 min switches are rare. Lastly I'm trying to buy an LCD monitor and monitor arm and I'm wondering what my choices are. Janice

Frederic Thanks that's exactly what I'd like to fig out. Ill look in detail later Peace!! Janice

Hi all; I always tried to perfect going to low-mode; either by conventional mode of actually flipping the camera or by 'poor-man's' low mode and just flipping rig with camera upside down and it was never perfect. The best, most seamless was a TV movie and the ACs were great help and it would get done in 1.5 min and I'd be putting on the vest. I'd love to see what people have thought of to make it both seamless and fast. I get the flip it mode but you still have to reset the gimbal and LCDs are never in the right spot when I just flip the rig and that readjusting always was a pain and took more time than I wanted. The results were always iffy on viewing the monitor too when I got the vest and arm on and in the spot where the shot was to take place. Please post videos and lets see. Thanks. Janice

Michael If you can keep up the same batts and all 100% charged etc. that's great but just normal details. 1) batteries don't age the same and you can have the same age etc and still have one that has cells that go bad at different rates. 2) normal shooting frenzy will invariably throw an odd different battery in the mix and could cause you problems 3) how much energy and attention are you going to spend making sure all this stuff gets done when it distracts you from your real job of shooting? I've certainly got perspective on lots of things and I see how I spent lots of energy on stuff that was a distraction and not where I should have been spending that time and energy. Those are the foils of youth and make us learn the most, so you have the advantage of the internet and all of our 40 years of experience to get smarter quicker. That's my input. Use it however make sense. Good luck and try everything. Janice

Michael If screw is 'bound up' its obviously not holding clamp device tightly any longer right? Figure out how to back it out without ruining the threads and replace the 5/32. If the clamp is not moving a drop of oil on the clamp could solve your simple maintenance problem that has finally shown up as slippage of your dovetail. Make sense? Janice

Quad; Legally I don't know much but clearly the bad guys have a lot of leverage as I've said before Personally. I'd try calling the film office where he is and registering a compliant and I'd call the states attorney general where he is. Posting here is as good anything to keep others from falling victim You may not get your motors back but maybe you could get his attention Again only legal is the way to go. Janice Have a great weekend

Hi all; While not about weighted vests it is about physical fitness. What this training does for you is also give the operator a mental toughness. Now a screaming AD or equipment problem or a long stretch are easier to take mentally too. Additionally, all exercise just gets the blood flowing more and makes you mentally sharper. All those people that work out look brighter eyed and sharper and they are. So I continue to be impressed by these workouts and William's weighted vest is neat. I'm almost curious enough to buy one; I experimented with leg weights as a kid back in the late 70s and still have them! Janice Have a great summer.

Alexander I always tell ops to start with reg cam op rate in your area. Now, how much skill or equipment can u add to that? Those are difficult to answer but at least a starting point. Are u shooting one shot for a resume or the entire day of a music video? Good luck Janice

Felipe I'm sure you have fixed your problem by now but it is a simple fix for the future to have a small pact of replacement screws available to u in your case. Www.mcmaster.com or your hardware store will sell single pieces. A screw checker (a piece of metal that lets you fig out exactly the size screw/bolt that u have) is a $6. Purchase. Hardened screws are black in color and don't give like the softer silver ones but even they're very cheap. Why loose a days' pay over a simple fix that would be stupid not to have for a few pennies and make u better prepared Over time u can come up w a small pack of typical replacement screws This will make you more prepared for any job. Janice

Alesandro; I doubt you'd be doing the 240fps because it takes so long for the action takes to culminate. I also think at that frame rate a steadicam is kind of a tripod. You aren't as needed to move because your move is lost in the time it takes to see the action. I think of those frame rates as water drops slowed or stopped but who knows what they have in mind. All that being said if u end up at 30-150 fps you'll look like a genius at whatever u shoot because it all looks good. Closeups of faces and med shots really show your skill well. Fill the frame too and you'll see great stuff. Full frame face and water splashing on the face is amazing. Particulates like dust show up well too, assuming they are lit. Good luck. Janice

Elliott I think most rigs have component that are at least 10-15% more than rated but that's only an educated guess. The longer term question is day in and day out your rig will suffer more wear and tear damage when using more than the rated norm. Top stages will flex more and gimbal yolks etc and over time that's the stuff that kind of gets torn up. So because these small rigs don't cost much I get my value out of them and make a profit of whatever I think is good then sell them pretty cheap and then buy a new one. As with you I just know they probably have a limited lifespan. I had a pilot from 2008 that I got a really return on that I just sold very cheap to a young beginner and he was thrilled and I threw in some extra stuff and cleaned out an area too Have a good week Janice

Thomas I just didn't see any sled under 500 pounds worth buying and u didn't want to spend even that much so a "platform " that would even hold that camera I saw as a mono pod. I guess I just misunderstood how basic u wanted to go. At least my way you could get some shots and spend very little and see if it was worth buying anything more involved for a few times use. I'm all about practical. Good luck. Janice

Thomas A truely cheap alternative is a simple monopod attached to the camera. No gimbal no weights and you can get a fair amount of experimenting stability Its a $40. Solution u could return to the store at the end even. Good luck Janice

Hi all; I've got some extra sets and wanted to make them available to anyone who needed them. 8) camera screws used in the weight plates 8) cage screws $15. for one set $20. for 2 sets In the USA in the rest of the world $28.00 for one set $33.00 for two sets Obviously its the shipping that costs the most, so once you buy one set the second set is easy to include. I need to know what plates your ordered, 2, 6.5, 11 or 15lb plate to send you the right ones so have that info available. I've got to experiment with the overseas shipping costs and see what works best. Thanks again for any who have ever ordered a weight plate from me. Janice

Dear word We need your name here Good luck. I'm sure someone can help Janice

Hi all; I get asked for advice on used gear and once the buyer starts to talk shipping/getting the gear I tell them this. 1) If you live in the US buy it from someone in US. Other parts of world sellers can make their own rules too. 2) If its a Steadicam and its going to cost you 4k or higher buy yourself a plane ticket and go check it out. A) its probably as cheap to buy a $400. plane ticket as to ship one or two cases via fed ex. 3) It takes away the guesswork of what you are getting. You can check out the monitor and rig and accessories first hand and I mean put the rig together and try it on, test out the chargers and batteries. 4) take your own DSLR, if you have to just to make sure it all works as you were told. 5) Get the insurance before you leave on the trip, get the serial numbers from the owner so that when you walk out the door with the gear and on the flight home its covered. 6) take a certified check, yes go to the bank and get one. Whatever you guys agree on. But don't expect to show up with a personal check for $15k and walk away with equipment. 7) if you want to be cautious get the check for $9k on a 10k purchase and take the rest in cash or personal checks (for a small amount) just so that if something is not as you thought you can discuss it with the owner but that's up to you. 8) There is no shame in making sure you check out the gear thoroughly, make sure you're not rushed into, "oh that works just fine, I don't have the cable for it to show you." 9) Owners should make a bill of sale and list what you are getting and both of you sign two copies and you each keep one. Take a picture of your check(s). 10) Bill of sale should state if you have a check out period with the rig? Can you take it home for 3 days and if you don't like it return it? Do you pay the shipping or does the seller? 11) spelling out stuff makes for fewer arguments not more. 12) sounds stupid but ask, if I return the rig are you going to be in town next Tuesday or not? You ship it back, it sits on the guy's porch and he's now on a job in Bolivia and the gear gets stolen now everyone is pissed!!. 13) If you are buying really expensive stuff, get a reference on the guy, who knows him/her? 14) Its your money so ask, I've been both taken and had people never think of this stuff and I don't want to have the uncomfortable moment when something goes wrong and now its all crap to figure it out. Hey these are all ideas I bring up to buyers and sellers. Have a good week. Janice

Hi all; I have an never worn Pilot vest in its original box. $700. which is what I paid for it. I just sold my Pilot with its original vest so this one just never got used. You pay shipping. These vests are hard to get separately and they take a beating so if you need a new one here it is. I'll post pictures Tuesday, just haven't gotten them to my laptop yet. Have a good week. Janice steadijan(at)Hotmail.com

Hi all; I've done every version of what you all describe above and I'm not always good about care and maintenance but I did try to leave them on charge as John shows I've had my charging station for decades I'm just vocalizing what I've thought of more and more over the years. The new chemistries, that I have not kept up on, started me wondering too. To answer Jerry's point the websites never say what 'long term' storage is. Is it a three day weekend or two weeks or more? I also know why as with John's point the legal disclaimer is why they don't. Even Nathan's company turns off power when the building is unoccupied for a week or so. So yes I'm going to turn them off when gone for even a few days and on a daily basis probably leave the "newest/best" on. Thanks. Janice

Hi all; I have and love Anton-Bauers so that's my battery system of choice. Here's the question charging when I'm gone for long periods and of course I'm talking about times when not working and I leave all the batteries to simmer. I've never had a problem in the past but I chased the qualities of my batteries closer then I have old and new batteries and some are obviously less good than others and a charger or two that would set records for age. As I leave for a week or two trips and even for a few days the thought of them cooking along has started to concern me. They charge on shelves under my stairs and where if heat built up there would be plenty of fuel to encourage them So; 1) does anyone set up their charging stations away from other flammable stuff? Like the middle of their garages on cement floors? 2) does anyone else think about this? 3) no I do not have lithium batteries 4) precautions you take? 5) recently I did take them all off charge when I left; I just can't take the stress.

Charles; We all know Overseas physics are different than western physics . . . Have a great week. Jan