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Janice Arthur

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Everything posted by Janice Arthur

  1. Hi all; I have two Easy Rigs for sale; 1) Heavy, holds Alexa and heavy set ups. Used but works fine, bag included $1200. 2) Lighter, I think the model is 200 but have to look, easily holds 15-20lbs. Original bag included. $1200. Let me know, if you're interested. Buyer pays shipping and insurance. (Pictures to follow, but putting it here will make me go get those pictures done!) Janice Love to sell them, asap. PM me here
  2. Part of a bigger discussion but some relevant points; 1) Everyone has a fixed amount they can spend. They aren't suddenly going to get an elf to drop 10k more on them so make a choice. Here are the variables.. I need to start making money and in my market I'm going to outgrow this rig in 18 months or three years? Over 18 months or three years can I get established and have some clients? At the end of that time; I might have more money saved up and I can start to look for a bigger rig for my needs? Do I need to buy other things like a Follow focus or transmitter or not? Am I committed to this as a career path or am I bored and want to move on? What the resale on my current stuff, do I just need a sled or is my vest ok? If you're looking at used it means you can't buy new, question answered. If used is where you are, are these available rigs any good? Do I have to buy the pieces separately? Vest from one and sled and arm from another and another? Is the master series sled ok? SD and really you're buying the post and top stage. Someone modified it for HD, do you trust their mod and is it OK? The arm and vest probably fine, but how do you judge? Everyone used to want (still do) a PRO 1 they can modify but they are mostly gone and hard to find so now everyone is modifying Master Series. That's a good start on your decision process. It's always, how long can I use this sled (you answer, 1-3 yrs) before I outgrow it? Does it fit what I need and my clients for now? What might I have to "adapt" if I put an HD camera on it? Good luck and keep asking. Janice
  3. Hi all; This is a very little used arm. Its just an old model 1 with a single hinge. It works fine and you don't need a double hinge. (You can send it to Robert Luna, at some point and have that installed.) Soooooo, if you want a super cheap heavy duty arm to get started with let me know. $1500.00 or reasonable offers. 30-55lb range. Probably more on the high end but I'm just being understated. All of you newbies who want high end gear for cheap this is perfect. Heck you could use it for a year or three then sell it and loose almost nothing on the deal. (yes I have the covers and the arm is in good shape.) Thank you and buyer pays shipping and insurance. Janice
  4. Julian; Any two plates and any four posts, $360.00 Shipping in USA $35.00. I include camera screws and post screws and extra sets for your cage and/or plates. I ship in a day or less and you usually have it in fast. I ship from midwest. Janice Let me know questions. Thanks.
  5. Hi all; Yes I still have them and will post pictures soon. PM me here and let me know questions. 2, 6.5, 11, 15lb plates and 7", 8.5", 9.5" posts. I sometimes have scratched up ones I've used once or twice too. I'm around so let me know. (You only need three posts to make a cage so if you every have an instance where a lens won't fit through the front posts, remove one of the posts and it works fine.) Thank you as always and a pretty cheap way to add weight that is versatile, by using just one plate even. Janice pictures to follow
  6. Jason; Whether you have extraordinary amount of sweat or not is really hard to judge. Over the history quite a few ops have thought they sweated more than most, who knows. Most people do what you do and learn to just change their shirts often. Other tips; At some point work up to an EXOvest which has fewer contact points and would allow you to wick away water more easily. Wrist bands (terry cloth) that soak up sweat running down your arms that keep your hands dry/dryer. Towels, around your neck to soak up sweat that you change often (usually a pain that you forget about or just wipe off when you get back to the stand. Towels at the stand are always a good idea.) Air drying the vest overnight so that you get a dry vest every day. (Don't put away a wet vest, lots of bad when you open it up again.) You can do all the silica in the vest bag, etc. but frankly after a busy week or two and you're tired most ops forget about the silica and it looses its value. Also silica in a high humidity environment may take more moisture from the air than your vest. Try everything and see what works, mainly its learn to love the sweat and have fun with it and a towel. As for cooling, on really hot days, when you're just hot in the suit, pouring ice water down your back with the vest on, is great and it kind of rinses out some nasty stuff. The foam will dry out and its already soaked with sweat, not a problem. Its fun to tell your AC and see their expression, "you want me to pour this down your back?" Good luck. Janice
  7. Kevin; Finally, a question I've thought about for decades, and raised with camera department members who looked at me in disbelief and never responded. I never carried a purse because it signaled to the bad guys "Here are the valuables, all nicely ready for you to take." I would stash a wallet or small bag in my vest bag, hidden compartment; maybe even under a back up t-shirt. In recent times, cargo shorts could carry a wallet in a pants pocket and not as a "wallet" guys would carry. I would always go in a hidden compartment that seemed, unlikely for valuables; cable cases, unlikely to be needed that day, but not easily found in a case or picked up from the top of a cart. Seldom in a car in the parking lot, under the seat, because in the event of an emergency you'll need it and your insurance info,, so nearby on set. For those who had my back, I'd let them know where it was if I an accident might happen. ICE (in case of emergency) phone numbers on your phone and readily available was also in there or available on the phone. Janice
  8. Emidio; Start with a rig and a workshop. Show those in your market you're serious. Get some practice time in and start talking to those in your market. Assuming you're reasonable, intelligent operator, who shows a desire and aptitude for the device, you'll make friends. Once you've "stuck with the process" of getting into Steadicam others will see that and you'll gain their confidence. Now, at some point they'll be busy or have some lo-budget project and your name will come up. Your marketing yourself will also help. They'll suggest you. Now begins the process of growing in the market. Its not predictable nor specific, but if you stick with it as you get better and better the jobs will begin. Good luck and its the same process you went through to get to be a camera operator in your market. janice
  9. Ian; I'm no engineer so I am not an expert but a round headlight is round on all sides so I see that it what you want is a headlight that leans with you as you corner. A simple gimbal, forgive the analogy but it works, that levels your coffee cup in the the axis you discuss is what you are aiming at. A $10 gimbal that finds the horizon makes sense to me. I'm not trying to insult you but to spend $500 (or whatever you estimate) would just be "difficult" to justify. I simple gimbal, that holds your headlight and finds level, whereever the bike is how I see your project. You're young and enthusiastic so go for it but to put electronics and devices into this, I'm not sure is the way to go. I wish you good luck. Janice
  10. Hi all; Misc. and I know it goes better in Cinematography.com but issues made posting it here possible. Taking offers. I also have a Canatrans transmitter and an older Modulus 3000 which both work and have lots of cables. If anyone wants those, make me an offer; I'd really like to get rid of all of this asap. Transmitter pictures are easy to send. Summer clean out and more to come. Janice
  11. Hi all; Misc. and I know it goes better in Cinematography.com but issues made posting it here possible. Taking offers. I also have a Canatrans transmitter and an older Modulus 3000 which both work and have lots of cables. If anyone wants those, make me an offer; I'd really like to get rid of all of this asap. Transmitter pictures are easy to send. Summer clean out and more to come. Janice
  12. Here are the two size bushings I have. The larger one is also pictured above. Thanks. Janice
  13. Hi all; My stainless steel screws and bushings are available. $10 each 2) 1/4-20 longer baseplate screws. 1) 3/8" longer baseplate screw 2) 3/8" to 1/4-20" bushings (only one pictured) All high quality stainless steel. Shipping is $8.00 in USA.
  14. Omar; I'll check my supply or ratchet straps and see if I have any. Check with Tiffen or google them, pretty easy to fix. The plastic should straighten if you can warm it up some, maybe even a heating pad and then just flex it back. The even more basic way is to just put on the vest and see if you can make it contour to your body. It should morph back to a workable shape with a few wearings. Janice.
  15. Hi all; The arm has a single hinge and works fine. It's weight range is 33-54lbs which makes it a good spring arm. It's seen very little use over the years and is in very good shape. Yes I have the covers I just took them off to show you the insides. Robert Luna can put on the double hinge if you want for $1900. He estimates the arm is worth $3500. now and $6500. with a double hinge. My price as you see it $2,000.00 plus shipping. So a huge deal for someone who needs a heavy duty arm. Email or PM me to discuss. I'd love to see it get some use and go onto many more shoots. (It's not my personal, just one I picked up recently.) Janice
  16. Hi all; I can take care of sewing any leather and vest plastics. Often times the Velcro is either worn out on the vest material or its come unsewn; I can fix that. After many years the thread has just dry rotted and need replaced. Let me know, to keep it cheaper; you can just send me the parts that need the work. As always I can replace pads/foam/Velcro. This is an improved option. Thanks all. Janice
  17. Hi all; I'm finishing a Model 2 (3A Type) vest and will have pictures and it available in a short time. Estimated price $1500.00 Arm, model 2, single hinge style available soon also. Heavy weight range but more detail on that soon too. Taking offers on it. Sorry no pictures, just haven't gotten them done. Janice. PM if you have any interest and I'll get motivated to finish them. More this week.
  18. Hi all; I think a "minder", would have been the way to go. There are so many variables here and potential problems (in a live environment) that a Minder could help, in so many ways.
  19. Taylor; Call Tiffen and ask about complete factory fix. You talk about gear 100% and cost effective fix, that's the big question. Up to you what that means; do you go to the Jiffy Lube or change your own Oil? Are you paying for someone else's labor and parts or can you do it? Welcome to what makes your business work most profitably. As for the wiring harness, rigs are built for specific niche and price point and when that was made what you want it to do now is different. You're aftermarket adding substantial extra money to make it a higher end rig. Thats just an observation and what many people do. Janice
  20. Taylor; The break needs something to span it on both sides. Whether that's 2" black gaffers tape or something more permanent fix that depends on your skills or budget. Replacing the entire bottom requires finding the plastic and then reattaching it to the spar with hardware. Do you want to go that far or pay for it? A flexible plastic that spans the break and you bolt on with small screws/nuts and washers is also doable but now you get to find the right flexible material and drill the holes and make the spanned gap secure. What do you want to do? Let me know and sorry for the delay, didn't see post. Janice
  21. I got a call from someone associated with Humvee, and they had some strange projection set up which required the Humvee to be extremely close to me on the back of the camera car. The course was some extreme all-terrain course which meant slipping, falling movements; gunning one or both vehicles over obstacles had just too many unknowns with me in the open on the back of a camera vehicle it seemed crazy. I said no and the person who called understood the dangers too as we talked it through. The other part was I didn't want to promise I could get all the footage they wanted, the way they wanted it. I was not sure Steadicam was the best mount to use get what they wanted with this strange projection set up that needed extremely close moving vehicle footage. Glad I said no. Janice
  22. Edmundo; Start by turning your camera on the dovetail to point the long direction of the top plate. Part of this issue you're having is that things in are in funny orientation. This makes you how hold gear in now odd and then all this stuff is making operating harder. Start there and see what other pieces might fall into place. Janice
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