Janice Arthur

Lawerance; Cramped Attic seems to have this "little module" replacement down for $175 a button and they don't come off. They also tweek the units to fix any other issues. I've got a lead on one other guy but haven't had a chance to call him. Janice

Hi all; I have been looking for those little channel buttons on Modulus forever! Modulus repair said I needed to buy the whole thing that they attach too for $300. (plus shipping, etc.) I kept saying I just need the little buttons and kept getting the same answer, pay $300! I've done some searching on the Internet but have yet to find them. Any ideas? Thanks. JA

Guys; I've been using those chemical Ice bags in heat lately and they work well. If you don't know what I referring to they are the plastic bags with two chemicals in them; you break the inner bag and they are instantly cold. You can put them on yourself or the gear, when you wrap them in a towel. They fit inside the front of my vest and also on the neck when you take a break. I've recently found them at a dollar store so they're cheap too. Janice

Hi all; I too own both. I have one of the orginal Prestons. It has worked flawlessly for probably 15-17 years, with maybe one or two minor services in that time. (Hundreds of shoots, maybe a thousand.) The Preston is one of the few pieces of gear that has managed to stay "state of the art" for 20 years, quiet a statement. I also own a rental Preston and a rental BFD system. The BFD works great too. The difference is you have to set the limits of a BFD and that little detail makes some ACs nervous and you don't just snap on a new ring while the lens finds the limits. Everytime my BFD goes out I have to make sure they know how to set it up, because they forget. (I started out with a Seitz and you had to set the limits of that one too. I got really good with the Seitz and I could reset it on the way to the shot. ) The only reason I bought a Preston way back when was that, as someone described, it would make the difference between who was hired and who wasn't. The world is different now. What you do need is a Follow Focus that works and that you can sell to your AC. If you can sell them the virtues of a BFD you're golden because it will do the job well. If you run up against a wall REPEATEDLY then maybe you'll need a Preston. It has to do with jobs, market, your skills, dollar value of the shoots, etc. You can't pay off a Preston in Montana. I always use a follow focus on the smallest of jobs, video or film and without a "professional" AC lots of the time. I set it up and hand the controller to my guy (either unit) and explain it to them and they get it. I have said for a long time "If my FF isn't working then I'm not working." Its not an option. No one does "laundromat" lighting these days and you need lens control. (one more bit of info. to support that which you've already heard.) Janice

Mark; Its easy to ask lots of questions here an generally everyone is very helpful. I am going to say you have do so some more research before you start asking these really general questions like "what would be a good camera that will fly comfortably on the Provid arm?" Your learning curve and confidence will soar when you know the info not just the answers to stuff you've posed here. I'm sure you know the weight range of your provid arm. I'm sure you've checked the weights of the various 35mm cameras available. How are you going to power a follow focus? You seem like a smart guy so I'm sure you know this stuff. (I'm not really trying to beat you up.) Janice

The handle bar thing refers to three things; 1) you are operating with only one hand on the center post and therefore the handlebar on that side is never used. 2) the handlebar on the side the gear hangs on has a chance of being seen in the shot or hitting the rig. 3) So what Jeff Mart has done is simply cut off the handlebar on that side. It is really just in the way. (I guess you could leave it but it is going to be annoying.) (Don't lower the seat too much, being able to use your thighs to pedal properly is essential. Once you're using some training wheels idea you won't feel so "tippy" when going slow and starting and stopping. (i.e. you won't need to lower seat so much)) Also don't assume you'll need upgraded tires. A regular bike tire will hold at least 200-225 lbs and unless you're huge even the rig won't overwhelm them. Lastly remember you may end up with an expensive "experiment" that may not get used much. Try the existing ones first. (Companies make "industrial" bikes for running around companies. They are very heavy duty etc but they weight a lot and cost more. Transporting them to the shoot can also be a drama. I've thought of buying one in the past but for the times I'd actually use one they weren't worth it in hassle and cost.) JA

To all; I know you guys will laugh but a bike with some "Training wheels" wouldn't be too bad. Beefing up the training wheels would also be good. I think you'd have to have a "girl's" bike and a vest you could make really short but it would work. Jeff's idea of cutting off the hand bar would be necessary too. Controlling the bike would be much easier as well as stopping and starting. JA

Brad; I agree, it makes me crazy to think of it. Imagine . . . he gets home, and the little missus says "How was your day Honey?". "Oh, same old, same old." Janice

Nathan; My 2 cents; 1) take a workshop. Learn lots. 2) don't rush to buy anything, keep getting more info about your choices. 3) figure out what your market. If you're in Idaho, you'll never pay off a $60k rig. If you're in LA can you afford the payments on an expensive rig while you get started? 3) Buy a vest and arm and a sled, a practice cage and a cheap home camera. Don't buy anything else. 4) Start practicing and getting free jobs, along the way you'll figure out the "accessories" that you really need. (Go get dirty.) Every guy/gal's needs are different and this will keep you from buying stuff that you'll never use. (Everyone of us has stuff we bought and never used.) I can also promise you that its easy spend all your money and you'll look up and still need something; so don't spend all your money. The list grows forever. Janice

The video was shot in 1984 on the set of "The Man with One Red Shoe" in Washington, DC, by Erich Roland. It is preceded by a short clip that probably was a warm-up for the "Day in the Life" video (does anyone know what movie this was from?) Charles; The "Day in the Life" film was "Lucas" a small/med film shot in chicago, late 80s vintage I think. (I'm not sure who shot it for Ted.) JA

Hi all; This is something I've been looking for for a while. http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/sto...11029_200311029 A cart "case" that can have lots of things available when I arrive on the set and I don't have to "uncase" everytime I set up. (like batteries, tools, accessories, cables.) I haven't checked all the dimensions for a magliner cart but it seams to be a perfect size. (good that you can lock it too). JA just an idea, I haven't bought it yet but I'm tempted.

Imran; Yes you're giving it a small skirt!!! Charles; The settling of the material has a small effect on whip pans but if you know you're doing one you shorten the material (or remove it) until its effect is manageable. The same with wind. The key here is to use a moderate weight material that kind of "luffs" (to use a sailing term); instead of waves or blows. Obviously weighting the bottom of the material would be the exact wrong thing to do. JA

Rob; Not sure what your question is but if you've ever tryed the lightweight rigs they are very hard to control because they have little mass. I was just proposing a solution that works for me. Its just a piece of cloth, no big deal. The cloth strip adds some resistance and therefore makes the rigs less "flighty" without adding weight. Obviously not an idea for you. Janice

Hi all; I'll work on photos but it could take a while so here is a better description. Measure a piece of fabric the length of the bottom of your sled. So the length is say 15" Cut the fabric to be 6" long (this is the part that will hang down). Stick on some velcro or elastic straps at the front of the material and the back of the material to hold it on your rig. Let the 6" part hang down. That's it. You can make it in about 20 min. Think of a teaser on a lighting rig that just hangs down and blocks out the light. That's what you're making for the bottom of your rig (obviously not for the same useage) but the same look. Janice (thrilled you're all interested) I suppose it would work on all our big rigs too.

I forgot mention that I used a med to heavy weight fabric like Duvatine or Felt which is slightly stiff and doesn't move much. It works great for me.

To all; I've put a small length of fabric (6") or less along the sled bottom. The fabric "dampens" the lightweight rigs. If I feel too much "dampening" I simply shorten the material. Obviously, too much wind is bad but even in modest wind it works. Let me know what you think. Janice

Robert; 3.) Do not separate out your equipment as a rental item so that it is covered under your own policy as it would be if you were using it personally (which I assume in most cases we are). You'd have to sort out how to roll it into some other category or into your fee to avoid calling it a rental as we all traditionally do. You can "rent" your gear to the shoot as long as you're the one using it. On the second issue; "if you get a Cert. from a renter and they skip with your gear the company will not pay off" This is one where I'd like to have more clarification because my understanding is that as long as the Rentor has Rented Equipment Coverage and their Cert lists "Miscellaneous Rented Equipment" in a sufficient amount in the "Other" section of "Coverages" you are covered by THEIR policy against Theft, Loss or Damage. Certainly we're all responsible to some degree to do our Due Deligence; that is to say take reasonable measures (whatever that would be) to make sure we know who we're renting to. This one seemed strange to me too, which is why I posted this stuff. Gear is clearly covered on their rental policy as a loss due to damage, theft etc. What seems to be the "loophole" is that if the client simply runs off with the equipment. Your insurance won't pay because you didn't do diligence in checking out your client. (It seems that now we'd have to ask whether their policy would kick in, as it should and cover the stolen gear.) (I will ask this point again.) (Another point here, get a credit card for the amount of the deductable, so you're not holding the bag for that. One recent rental policy had a $2500 deductable, which I didn't want to pay out just in case.) I have rentors insurance to cover outbound rentals on the camera packages and other equipment I own but I also require the Rentor to issue a certificate showing my company as not just the Additionally Insured but also the Loss Payee so if there is a loss the check is cut to us not the Rentor. For instances where I'm the one renting equipment that is where my Miscellaneous Rented Equipment coverage covers the other company/person. (We're the reputable renters and we have insurance for the gear we rent and we don't leave town.) Janice (now I have a headache)

Fabrice; I have Liability through Walter P. also. Maybe mine is just an exception because I've been with them a long time. Janice

Hi all; To my surprise I found out that my Walter P. Dolle policy does not cover anything that is "out of your care and control", namely any gear you rent/loan. So you need really make sure you get a Cert. from your renter. Also in discussing this with another Insurance person (not Walter P.) if you get a Cert. from a renter and they skip with your gear the company will not pay off!!!! It shows that you didn't didn't check out your client well enough and you're then guilty of letting the gear out of your control. This seems like a huge gap but apparently every Insurance does this. (A couple of years ago a guy here rented a camera and the Cert. of Ins was bogus and his own insurance would not pay off when the camera never returned. I'd heard the story but I was unsure of the logic of it now I know.) Walter P. is a great company and I've only had good experiences with them so this is no slam at them, just an FYI kind of post. (Maybe you guys already know this, I didn't.) Janice

Hi all; I, like most of you, will do a few low budget jobs a year. (payment at the end of the job thing.) Well this being tax season you realize that you may have to give out your SS number to a bunch of people who you know are not trust worthly enough to protect it. I give them a company Fed ID number and if I didn't get over $600 for the year from them I don't even give out that. (min. amount that you must receive before they must report it to the IRS.) The check was long ago cashed, what are they going to do to you. I really don't like giving out the Fed ID # unless I have to either but at least its not a SS #. One more thing to cloud our brains with. JA

David; Thanks for finding me a Muppet. Love the Muppet Forum. I've been doing the wacca, wacca, at random times and it will get you stared at, let me tell you. More later. I always wanted to be in a band!! JA

Hi all; Several Ops in the area have talked about a Midwest get together. If you're interested e-mail me. jarthur@janicearthur.com This is tentative but I was thinking the weekend of July 21-22. Meet Friday night for dinner, if you arrive in time. (everyone pays individually) Saturday, show and tell your gear, etc. Discuss stuff like rates, jobs etc. Lunch and stuff like food included; dinner included. Sunday more of above if wanted or show reels and discuss. A couple of shot challenges if want to participate. (Maybe $5-10. in the pot for some determination of a winner.) Break up sometime around mid day. Pay your travel and hotel etc. The cost right now seems to be $200. Bring your rig, bring the stuff you want to sell but just come. Exact location to be determined; but we'll use Chicago just because its my idea and I live here and its central. Janice

To all; Please keep this thread going its the best thing to read and reread! I am having a great time with it; I AM sorry for those who've lost out in one way or another. If it wasn't for this we wouldn't have anything to read. Janice (Don't worry about the newbies, they understand verbal jousting.) (I hope there is security at the booths during the trade shows.)

Adam; The last time I used an AJA the AC reminded me that it doesn't power up (light go on) until you connect video. So, if this is true, it seems to me that you are drawing too much power or there is a short somewhere. My solution with these things (AJAs) has been to run them off the P-tap on the Anton-bauer adapter plate, then the camera has to deal with this power not my sled. Hope this helps as an option. Janice