Evan Barthelman

IDX adapter plates have been SOLD. (4) DionicHC batts and 4-spot charger STILL AVAILABLE @ $175/batt and $350 for the quad charger.

Pelican 1560 case has been SOLD

For those looking for more info on the Alexa/ENG anti-vibration plate from Cam-Jam, here is the link to their website with a full description. My kit includes an additional little tiedown screw and odd little nut which I never use... maybe you can remember where it goes? https://shop.cam-jam.de/product/alexa-eng-steadicam-anti-vibration-bracket/

Weight cage has been SOLD and shipped to NYC.

BlackMagic monitor/recorder kit has been SOLD and shipped to NYC.

Sales pending on batteries, charger and IDX adaptor plates. Thanks everyone!

Sale pending on the BlackMagic video assist kit. Thanks everyone!

Good question, Kevin. The Wooden Camera dovetail I'm selling is a small, lightweight version of an Arri baseplate. It's the tripod (or Steadi) side which accepts the camera QR. https://woodencamera.com/products/safety-dovetail-8

Sales pending on the weight cage, Pelican 1560 case, and LX vest bracket. Thanks everyone!

Clearing out the shelves before I move. Check my other posts for stuff you might need. Most of it is backup gear/aks, lightly used over the last 5yrs. Make me offers! Everything available separately. Most of these cables have the smaller 3-pin LEMO FGG.0B for the sled side, like on Archer2, Clipper, Shadow, Ultra2, M-1, etc. Happy to send you a closeup image of the pins on both ends, if you have any doubt before buying. Half are Tiffen cables, the other half are from MediaBlackout or TerryWest. Some are "legacy" cables that might still have an application, otherwise we'll just have to laugh about planned obsolescence. If you know about cross compatibility of the camera cables, please comment below. Here they are in no particular order: LEMO 3-pin "Ultra to Alexa 24V" with 90˚ connector at the camera, 24" length. LEMO 3-pin to Alexa 24V power with straight connector at the camera, 36" length. LEMO 3-pin to Paralynx LEMO 2-pin, 24" length. IIRC, this can also be used for other TX like Teradek, etc. but we'll want to check polarity. LEMO-3 to XLR-4 ENG camera power, 24" length. LEMO-3 to "RED epic/scarlet" 12V LEMO-6, 24" length. LEMO-3 to "REDcam 12V" LEMO-6, 20" length. I think this is for the original RED ONE! Came with my Archer2, and has only been used with Tiffen's in-house RED body for demos. LEMO-3 to LEMO-2 BFD receiver power, 7" super-shortie for mounting the receiver under the nosebox. LEMO-3 to AB p-tap quad, 18" length. So useful for all those aks. LEMO-3 custom LED voltmeter. Add voltage readout to your 12V line and stash the display anywhere with velcro. Made this myself after wrapping a sled for rain and couldn't see power meter. P-tap 12V input to TVlogic mini-XLR-4 36" length. Old backup cable for my TVlogic monitor, in case monitor cable failed. If anyone is interested, make reasonable offers. Everything works great, I just don't use this stuff. Located in Los Angeles, local preferred, or buyer pays shipping. PM me on the site, or for faster response, email: red288GTO@gmail.com -Evan

Clearing out the shelves before I move. Check my other posts for stuff you might need. Most of it is backup gear/aks, lightly used over the last 5yrs. Make me offers! BlackMagic Video Assist 5" onboard recorder complete. Also great as a studio return monitor. Custom AB battery mount for your sled, short and long p-tap power and signal cables. One Archer2 cable for those little SMB HDSDI connectors. HDSDI loop thru. Great as a field recorder to check your work even if the camera walks away, or retain a copy for *ahem* posterity. Touchscreen is immaculate, latest firmware, includes everything, including custom screen protector. Hoping to sell the whole kit, but no SD cards included. Backup Libec ZC9-pro clamp-on ENG zoom controller, barely used. Includes 8-pin to Fujinon 12-pin adaptor. Decent little backup, I just had it in case the Stanton or G-zoom went away. If anyone is interested, make reasonable offers. Everything works great, I just don't use this stuff. Located in Los Angeles, local preferred, or buyer pays shipping. PM me on the site, or for faster response, email: red288GTO@gmail.com -Evan

Clearing out the shelves before I move. Check my other posts for stuff you might need. Most of it is backup gear/aks, lightly used over the last 5yrs. Make me an offer! Everything available separately. Janice Arthur 23Lb weight cage with 6.5Lb and 16Lb plates. Long 9" rods make it tall. Dozens of threaded 3/8"-16's and countersunk 1/4" holes for a variety of users. Excellent condition, but it's basically two chunks of steel. No extra charge for the little bubble level and velcro strips ;-) Original Cam-Jam Alexa/ENG plate. Skinny and lightweight method to avoid using VCT-14 plates on your rig. Was my go-to method for broadcast cam's with VCT mounting. Includes the then-optional ENG rear tiedown to work on Sony or other cams. Wooden Camera lightweight "safety" 8" ARRI dovetail. Handy to allow quick changes to and from Steadi. Has a little safety screw on one side and lever on the other. LX vest bracket for socket block. NO SOCKET. Spare connector, might fit other Tiffen vests with the same front spar width. Still has the little spring plunger and wedge hardware. Pelican 1560 case with wheels and padded dividers. Great condition. Wheels, latches and handles are in great shape. This case handled backup stuff and is lightly used. I'll try to get that sticker off. If anyone is interested, make reasonable offers. Everything works great, I just don't use this stuff. Located in Los Angeles, local preferred, or buyer pays shipping. PM me on the site, or for faster response, email: red288GTO@gmail.com -Evan

Clearing out the shelves before I move. Check my other posts for stuff you might need. Most of it is backup gear/aks, lightly used over the last 5yrs. Make me an offer! Everything available separately. FOUR re-celled AntonBauer Dionic HCs only used for monitors, RX, small aks. Re-celled by J Ritter in FLA between 10-2017 and 05-2018, parked on charger most of the time, never depleted, very few cycles since re-cell. Recent test results: Batt1 = 13.1AmpHrs, Batt3 = 13.7AmpHrs, Batt4 = 13.4AmpHrs, Batt5 = 13.3AmpHrs AntonBauer intelligent quad charger with DionicHC upgrade chip from a thousand years ago. Able to test batt's. Sequential charging, 4pin 12V power supply. Not my field charger, sits on a shelf 24/7. TWO completely DEAD Dionic HCs of the same vintage, if you have any use for them. Sadly, these two were forgotten and discharged beyond help. Re-cell costs $175 each, IIRC. TWO IDX V-lock batt to AB gold mount plates, like new. Super handy when the client/rental house has V-locks. Don't leave home without them. If anyone is interested, make reasonable offers. Everything works great, I just don't use this stuff. Located in Los Angeles, local preferred, or buyer pays shipping. PM me on the site, or for faster response, email: red288GTO@gmail.com -Evan

Sled/arm/vest were thoroughly inspected and fine tuned by the techs at Tiffen, last week, July 26th. Condition confirmed: everything works, needs nothing, excellent condition. Still hoping to sell as a complete kit, but I might be breaking up the system. If you see something on the list that excites you, reach out with an offer and I'll put you on the list. -Evan

Hi guys and gals, Selling my Archer2 SE system. It's the only Archer with factory-added Lemo3 power ports at the top stage, factory-deleted docking ring with Hill dock, and small custom sled-only case. This is the most compact, lightest weight, and most affordable VOLT-compatible rig available. SE sled with remote control stage motors, super-clean G50x arm, and lightly modified LX vest. Offered with a cache of cables, a bunch of brackets & backups, plus cases for the whole lot. Ready to go on a shoot today. One fastidious owner, check out the 65+ detail images on dropbox: https://bit.ly/2SoJA5j Here's a PDF list of what's included, PLUS a bunch of other accessories that I'll sell separately if the system buyer doesn't need them: https://bit.ly/2XXYPY3 Hoping to sell the full kit to someone looking for everything, but willing to go ala carte if the sled goes first. Located in Los Angeles, willing to show anytime, or it can be set up at Tiffen, Burbank for all to scrutinize at your convenience. Buyer pays necessary shipping. Asking $32,000 for the complete system, competitive offers considered. Email me at Steadicam@EBcamera.com with any questions or for more info. Good luck to everyone shopping for their next rig! -Evan

I had the same question two years ago: Why can't I get a "Hybrid" Sony LCD (transflective) for my Steadicam? I forget who I talked to at Sony, but their explaination was that the light tubes behind the transflective layers will begin to show when sized any larger than 2-3 inches. Basically you'd end up with uneven back lighting in non-sunlit scenarios. Still, if I find a wrecked Z1-U or FX-1 on eBay I'm buying it and attempting an LCD-ectomy. Even at 2 1/2" it's an amazing screen. Having used those cameras since they came out, that screen is one of the biggest advantages they have over the competition. Try shooting in full-sun with a DVX, PD or anything else and you'll see how spoiled the Z1-U can make you. I hope that Sony guy was wrong and we can get a 5-7" multiformat transflective monitor for Steadicam use. Fingers crossed, Evan

Bryan- My EFP monitor suffered from the same foggy layer. It's a clear plastic layer designed to transmit picture from the curved face of the little CRT to the back of the flat anti-reflective green filter. Think of it as a sliver of a giant fiber-optic cable. Only problem is that it degrades over time, causing a foggy appearance and rendering the monitor less-than-perfect. I was actually able to polish the soft plastic on mine and have gained a useable monitor once again. I hadn't thought of actually REMOVING the soft layer. I imagine the only problem you'll have with it is in direct sunlight where the inside surface of the AR green plastic might cause additional reflections. In your other posts I noticed you're interested in making the mod for 16:9 viewing. I drilled a hole in the left side of the case and use a small screwdriver to turn the "Height" pot from one end to the other. One seems to be 4:3 the other 16:9 or close enough. It just makes for a TINY screen, but without the funhouse mirror effect. Best of luck, Evan

Rob- Yeah, I was just joking, I heard you loud and clear. I always have the ol' multimeter on hand if I have any questions. I just want a half a chance to get it right, but I'll make one of Paul's adaptor cables to have on hand just in case. Great idea. It all worked out great, looks clean and should get me through the next year or so while working on my form and building my resume. When testing the final result, however, I was a bit surprised to see over 33 volts coming from my paired Anton Bauer batteries! Is this going to be okay, or do I need to figure out how to build a voltage regulator? Always one thing after the other, isn't it? -Evan

Thanks Rob, I'm not quite sure what you're message is, though... maybe I'll just do a few tests before plugging things in. ;) I'll be making cables and having them made for me, but I just thought I'd give myself the best possible chance of using available cables in a pinch. I do mostly HD and video but have been getting more and more calls to fly film cameras. I'll wire it the "US" way since I live in LA and work here most of the time. And I'll always test first. Multimeter at the ready, Evan

I am re-wiring my 24volt EFP so that the power is available at the top of the sled, as it should have been when the 24volt mod was done originally. I have installed a 3-pin XLR and will be making (or will have made) custom cables for specific cameras as needed. Here's the question: On those big "block" batteries, there is a 3-pin output for 24 volts and I would like to know what the wiring is to which pins. My thought is that I can use power cables designed for those external batteries, even if they are a bit long. So is it pin ONE = negative and TWO = positive? or the other way around? Any insight would be appreciated, and will get my rig back in one piece sooner. Always learning, -Evan

"aside from that, it worked great. I might try to drill some more holes in the top, and bottom of the cage, hopefully to reduce the weight just a tad. It's 18lbs now, and I'd like it to be 15." Just don't go too light as the arm has a minimum around 15 lbs... My practice cage is 22lbs and when you add an XL-1 it's about 29lbs total. Also, the EFP/3a arms are reported to behave more neutral when in the middle of their adjustment range, so the heavier the camera (to a certain extent) the less "springy" the arm feels. Besides, I'd always rather be on set and have my rig LIGHTER than I practice with... Helps build confidence and stamina, and when on set you'll be able to concentrate on everything else instead of the heavy rig. -Evan

That's what I did on my EFP. Works great when you need to get through tight doors and such. I am, however, a bit concerned that the latteral stresses on the top of the arm might snap the thin piece that holds the top of the post. I tend to use it only when necessary, and clamp it most of the time. Has anyone been running this type of setup and have "years of use" to prove that I'm just too cautious? -Evan

You're on, Chad. You've made a generous offer, don't be surprised if we ALL show up on your doorstep for a glimpse of the AR in action. I can't wait to see it. -Evan

I have an el-cheapo video transmitter that works quite well when connected directly to a video camera, but becomes almost un-receivable when gettng video from the sled. I have an EFP and I've found that switching the 75ohm switch (I guess un-terminating the video outs) allows the transmission to be received, but this makes my rig monitor over-bright. Any ideas as to why running the video through the sled would make for a weaker signal? -Evan

Would people prefer it if Classifieds were only listed until sold, then the post would be removed? It seems like a chore to wade through posts only to find an item you want is sold. Do people like having the sold items remain up to help stabilize prices for other gear? In other words, is it good to be able to see that two months ago, someone sold a BFD for $1500, so you can price yours at $1500? Just a thought.