Tommy Stork

This gimbal is in perfect working condition. It was completely disassembled, thoroughly cleaned, lubricated and reassembled. Even the  bearings in the handle.

The PRO female socket block is right around $1,000.00.

Hi Hugo, those pins are pressed in there so you can also trying pressing them out as well. You will have to make obvious allowances for the threads on the inner and outer post receivers so they don't get crushed. Just make sure the post is supported, the threads are elevated off the mounting plate surface, and the post is level to the press.

When I was growing up I played baseball competitively and had a private coach I went to every week to work on mechanics drills and skills. I kind of look at Greg like that, like a coach; he figures out where you need the most help and tailors the coaching around that. Greg's many years as an operator makes his advice indispensable and worth every penny. I was getting my ass handed to me on a particular shot in a movie I did a few weeks ago. I got together with Greg and told him where I was getting hung up and he had me straightened out in no time. Greg is a great teacher and I recommend his services highly to anyone wanting improve any aspect of their operating.

Brooks,

Thanks for sharing with us heartfelt decisions and some epic stories. It was always fun to see you when you came into the shop at PRO, when we were in Santa Clarita, that is. I wish you the same success from here that you've always enjoyed.

Hi Damien, the serial number for all PRO arms is located on an engraved nameplate that is then affixed to the "wiggler" link of the arm, (that's the link that connects the front section to the rear section of the arm). They can sometimes get knocked off, so If it's not there, give Michelle a call and she can look your serial number up and issue you a new nameplate. When you get the new nameplate, attach it to the wiggler by using the shop approved method of using a thin layer of household contact adhesive like this:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Amazing-Goop-3-7-fl-oz-Household-Contact-Adhesive-and-Sealant-130011/100372166

Vitaya, there is no price listed because the post indicates that you should submit your offer to him through the email he has listed.

Hi Bruce,

I've done the wiring for PRO since 2012 and understand the iterations of PRO sled wiring. I'd be happy to help you out if you'd like, it's really not too difficult especially if you have a soldapullt!

I have 8 canisters, yet, I've had 4 blues in my arm for as long as I can remember. I've had to do a little lifting with some heavier lenses on a fully built Alexa, though. As Jens stated above, flying 2 canisters in a Titan is fine. It was designed with that in mind.

Victor, Jack didn't change the prints on the socket block.

Back when I bought my 3A arm the socket block was .008 ( keep in mind a human hair is roughly .003 to .004, so we're not talking about a whole hell of a lot extra metal here) over the size of the PRO female socket block. I took some 220 grit cloth to the boss on the male socket block to get it to the PRO socket block ID. When I got it so it fit very snugly I hit it with some 600 grit cloth for the final passes to clean up any marks left by the heavier grit. Took about ten minutes. Cut the cloth in a 1" x 12" strip wrap it around the boss on the male socket block and pull it back and forth continuously in a clockwise fashion until you have gone 360 degrees, then go back the other way 360 degrees (i know, there are many jokes in here for Ron to capitalize on). We do this at the shop, (at least when we were in Valencia) for customers who bought our vest and still had Tiffen arms. Keep a dial vermeer caliper nearby when doing this and test the boss frequently while sanding so you know when you are getting close to matching the ID of the PRO female socket block. When the two parts almost mate ditch the calipers and take a couple more passes with the sandpaper and try another test fit or two, until you get the fit you desire.

A heartfelt thank you to those service men and women who are a part of our community, for their sacrifices while serving the country. I know Jack and Chris at PRO are veterans. David Baldwin is a veteran as well as Michael Johnson and George Paddock. It would be fun to see who else amongst us has served so we can honor them today as well.

Anyone know how far back this board recall goes? Got my MDR3 a few months ago, and haven't had any issues so far, but would love to know what I should be looking out for to not have it go down on a shoot. And I've since sold my MDR2..

What up Stew! This has happened to me twice and both times the MDR stops sending a signal to the motors. One minute things are honky dory and the next nothing is happening. My first came to me and said he didn't have control of focus for the last half of the shot we were doing. We did some trouble shooting and obviously were perplexed. have know idea what is going on technically but the power light and the channel light are on but the reset button doesn't trigger the usual motor calibration and there is no response from the HU either. I'm sure this has been talked about before but someone with more technical awareness could shed more light on the subject than I can.

Alec, No one picked up the phone for me on a Saturday, but Brian Freesh did and saved my butt for Saturday and Sunday by lending me his MDR3. On Monday I took my MDR in to Preston and they are replacing something that is a "known problem" in the MDR. Does a booster board sound right? Although, it is extremely frustrating and embarrassing when your gear goes down I'm very happy with Preston's commitment to their customers and their customer service. I was given a loaner MDR 3 on Monday and the repair will be done this week. Iv'e always believed that a company's true colors are shown by how they deal with the problems that can come up from time to time. My issue was taken care of promptly and with courtesy by Alanna, Leticia and Dan. Your friends' true colors come out when your tits are in a ringer, too and Brian's customer service was mucho excellente, tambien!

Anyone have a G4 blue dot MDR for rent in LA? I think a board in my MDR3 went out because there is power going to the MDR but it doesn't respond to HU commands or reset when using the reset button. Nor does unplugging and plugging back in the power cable. All the lights and channel indicators are on but no one's home. Thanks.

I've heard cramped attic does a good job on these modifications and I would give Terry West a shout as well. We definitely don't do any SD to HD modifications at PRO. The best bet would be to buy a new Cinelive upper and lower and then plug it in and go to work.

The guy "behind" Ron looks as if he is currently in need of some of that stuff, ergo the look in Ron's eyes.

Hey Jens, Didn't you tell me that you used that stuff to whiten your teeth, too?! A big plus is your product is half the price of the Contact ReNu. Hope you're well, buddy.

Hi Dennis,

Although you could probably get away with using carb cleaner we don't recommend it. We use a Miller-Stephenson product called Contact ReNu WITHOUT LUBRICATION!! Make sure you specify that it is without lubrication if you decide to order it. Pacific Radio in Burbank carries it and one can will last you quite a long time.

http://www.pacrad.com/contact-renu-miller-stephenson-ms-530.html

The shop uses Renolit ST-80 white lithium grease. What Jens recommended is just fine as well. I included the link of the product the shop uses but white grease is white grease. There is a guy on the forum named John Stout who has just purchased a case of this stuff and is offering the extra tubs for sale. One tub of this stuff will probably last you for your entire career.

http://www.powerlubeind.com/sites/default/files/default_images/downloads/LubeSpec2014/TDS/Fuchs/Renolit_ST_80_tds.pdf

The shop recommends using Arri oil on your gimbal and tilt bearing, but a good 3in1 oil, or light turbine oil will suffice as well. You can order the Arri oil directly through Arri in Burbank. They may even have it in stock.

http://www.arrirentalstore.com/product_p/129994.htm

Hope this is useful to you.

If you buy a tub of this it will last you your entire career. This is the brand we use at the shop.

bump

I agree with Louis, the Mantis is the bomb! We had it in the shop at PRO for about six months and I was thoroughly impressed with it. Very versatile. Those that rented it all expressed their approval of it and how well it handled.

Quincy, they are the PRO MDR2 and MDR3 mounts. They mount the MDR2 and MDR3 to the PRO dovetail T bracket that is attached to the donkey box.

I think it's steadyg@mac.com, Ozzy.

PM me with your email address if you want photos

PRO Donkey Box 2 in excellent condition

PRO Gen 2 battery rack

PRO HD electronics NOT Cinelive, the old style with one line of HD and one line of SD

PRO SD electronics

Preston MDR2 and 3 brackets

Sam, I couldn't disagree with you more about his comments being misconstrued. I can't imagine anyone, who was well intentioned, giving the crew such short shrift and basically overlooking them as non-sequitur baggage to creating a vision. I would welcome his comments here.