mattmarek

thomas, lets start our company. i was on set last year (an extremely sunny day) and myself and the key grip rigged some clamps to my harness, and we fashioned an umbrella on top of me :) should dig around for a photo

thomas...love you like brothuh from a different mothuh, but that is a crazy messed up idea. :D and steve has a nexus sled i believe. easier to just to a slight trim with the top stage. i still think a 10 min shot with a few takes and 1000' mag will stress your arm in ways it shouldn't. good luck though. post the shot on line.

other idea that comes to mind is if there's any whip pans in the segment to do an actual cut and edit during a whip, or if there's many ramps up and down with speed, to find a natural cut in there...maybe some 8 fps fast motion stuff??? if it's gotta be 1 continuous 10 min shot, you already know you dont wanna consider going with 35mm and a 1000' mag. 16mm or alte cine or varicam with 35mm transfer maybe?

hey steve, i mistakenly flew a 1000' mag on a panastar years ago. my masters arm was maxed out and i was doing some lifting with my own strenght. i'd think the 435 with 1000' would be lighter no? hmm, have to look that one up i guess. if i were you, i'd suggest super 16mm. cant help you with the preston question, but i would not recommend doing 1000' 35mm mags for a ten minute shot that may need to be repeated, again and again :D cheers ...on 2nd thought, what about the new arri 235 or an older 2c, can those take 1000 footers? hmmmm

cheers iain :)

ian, dont think i mentioned 'low end' sleds here. :) sure the bassons and the bottom feeders wont compete, but look at mcConkey using his mod'd 3A up until 2001 was it? this was my point, the ms and 3a is fine. sure there's updates and newer things, but there always will be in this field. a bl4 delivers just as good a picture as a 535 does. i think that was my point. i hope i'm not 'dumb' :D MM - toronto

' Kevin "doesn't want to be a part of that elitist negativity club" Andersen ' ok. good luck with your decisions. fly safe :)

i've added an anton bauer mount to the bottom of my masters sled for 24V, so power wise, i'd say the masters can be modified easily enough for any camera. the dirty image with some taps is solved by powering the tap separately with the 4 pin hirose 12v/video connector. usually found with the arri 3. other than that, you may want to replace the monitor mount with an xcs or mkv bracket. sure different sleds offer different bells and whistles, but they're all sticks with a gimbal and monitor. it's the operator

'...unlike all you owner.operators ' this is a bit of a generalisation...no??? thomas was being tongue in cheek with you. lighten up :D

thomas...you cheeky tosser :) how you been?

when you start walking with the rig, it appears as though you are not 'feathering' just just start walking. this will cause a bit of a jar in the shot. try pushing the sled out a beat before you start your hip movement. keep practicing. hours a day man :D

of course you'll get answers that will sell their gear the most. i have the utmost respect for tiffen, but i was not so impressed with their ultrabrite. from what i hear, the hummingbird monitor sold by mk-v.com is the way to go if you're to go to an lcd monitor. i have not seen one in the flesh. i'm way to happy with my green crt to consider anything else at the moment. an all HD feature or series would probably have me seriously considering though :D

'For the price, they're a fairly decent rig' man, if it's common to just have the elbow snap in the arm, this one sentence of yours makes no sense. how can you get anywhere if you wreck your rig and a productions' camera while starting off??? avoid!

in norway, you may be able to get by with one of the lesser known rigs, and for starters, you cant really go wrong with glidecam if that's the system you can afford. i know in areas like canada and usa, and parts of europe, a lot of weight is placed on the gear you own. a producer may not want to spend the big bucks on you if you have an old rig or a rig he's not familiar with. they'll want the guys with the so called 'real deal' what's sad about this, is again, it's the operator in that rig that is delivering the goods. the fanciest gear in the world wont save your shot if you dont know what you're doing. what are you getting into? film, video? tv, movies, music vid's??? i know a few guys that can get by easily on a provid as all they do is betacam type work.

for the philly workshop i did, you were allowed to bring your own rig, i think you may have heard wrong. what rig do you own?

if you can get your hands on a vest, that will give your group more 'in the rig' time and save the constant turnovers. also make friends. i met stephen at the course and we are good friends to this day, and i'll be going down south next week to work with one of the teachers of the course. have fun. :rolleyes:

with experience you will learn to trust that you have the camera pointed in the right direction this will enable you to monitor your monitor as well as keep your eyes on the terrain in front of you. practice turning your head and not moving your gimbal hand even the slightest. this can be done around the house with a full glass of water. when you turn your head, and you feel some water spill onto your fingers, this means that the act of turning your head is creating force on your gimbal, thus leading to major horizon and or framining issues. it's heartening to know, that in rough terrains and near running shots, the frame will never always be perfect. but it's your job to make it as perfect as it can be. if you have a dv camera, practice framing on objects without your monitor turned on. 'zen it' i was once given a bum arri3 w/video tap and shot the entire steadicam sequence with no monintor. :angry: granted we were on really wide lenses, but knowing my space really saved the day there. oh and to counter thomas' advice about making the sled more bottom heavy, think of the control issues and fighting you will have to do when there is an error. i tend to keep my drop time as usual or slightly more neutral and really relax on the gimbal. (thomas, how you been man? chiang mai work out ok for you and the girlfriend? we're finishing up the doc in the next month or so and i'll have some stuff online at that time. cheers mate!)

it will be worth your time if it stops assholes like this from working in the business successfuly. same thing happened to me with a company in india. i really hate that. go get em' :angry:

hmm. hit your marks. your 1st will thank you. other than that...film is more expensive than tape, so just make sure you are up to your chops and you DON'T SCREW UP!!!! relax and have fun :D

sometimes an ice towel or cold damp towel in the heat. gotta keep the system cool any way you can B)

good and cheap and steadicam cannot be put into the same sentence :D well, actually they can : 'you cannot get a good steadicam for too cheap ' :D if you're on a super tight budget, you may want to look at a do it yourself approach.

"With huge investments in time, effort, money and physical strain on our bodies, aren't we worth a little more than my plumber friend?" i'll play devils advocate on that one and say that a plumber doesn't just go out and get a 12 hour day with that kind of rate. and you're not paying his travel time either i'd imagine. and his job is more important than ours...so... :D

namaste verma, after india went over to russia to finish the film, then to new zealand for some bollywood film - 'godumba shanka' ??? glad to hear you're keeping cool. beats the 45 degrees celcius happening most everywhere else i guess :D cheers

c'mon :D this day and age of computers? would have been just as easy for us to download a 30 second clip of the thing in action or some basic, low to high mode shot. those stills were ok, but i think howard could have done a lot better with some actual footage cheers

am i looking at a wrong link or something? all i saw was a series of stills. no actual footage of the thing in action?