Peter Milanov

Just wondering how you get to this amount? When importing steadicam gear to EU there is a 3,7% duty and our VAT in Sweden is 25%, but the VAT is refundable for a company.

I´ve been looking for the perfect cart for a while and this might be it. What´s the total hight of the cart when the topshelf is in its lowest position? Thanks.

Feel sorry for you Tomas. Good thing this thread is pinned, I hope it will stay that way. I made up my mind of never dealing with MK-V last year on Cinegear after being ignored by Howard for about half an hour while receiving numerous apologies from the rest of the staff. Howard, you missed an AR sale there... I would return the rig if I were you.

Exactly my reaction. Cabled on a show like this is just crazy.

Thank you Tomas, I´m trying to make up my mind if I should go with Boxx or Transvideo. Jordan, I´m on a show right now with the Alexa and the only option I found for the monitor out was framerate (24, 25, 30), not resolution. Maybe in a later firmware...

How does the Boxx work with the Alexa? According to the specs it accepts up to 1080i while the Alexa monitor output is, I believe, 1080p.

Thank you Charles. Used that the other day. Worked like a charm, safe and easy.

Looks like it´s the operator that hits the player. Way too close, he had it coming.

Also, don´t forget to change your username to your real name... :rolleyes:

Good work. Looks like a Steadicam Pilot or a Flyer.

Put it up on Ebay, then you will know what it´s worth. You may get more than you hope for.

Yes, I have the same problem with some cameras (once an Arri LT too). I have talked to Tiffen about the problem and they are working on a solution. Contact them and let them know you have a problem.

So, basicly, it´s a downconverter and analog transmitter in one?

Hi Mikael, had the same issue with my Ultra2. In my case it was the internal cables in the ultrabright monitor that had to be replaced or shortened. It´s a known issue with these monitors and Hofmann here in Sweden took care of it for me.

Nitin, the Ultra2 handles the powerdraw from the RED one without any problems. But you should put the batteries in parallel and exclude the 24-12 V downconverter otherwise the downconverter gets really hot. First time I used the RED on my Ultra2 I actually melted the plastic cover on one of the 15A fuses because of the heat generated from the downconverter.

Hey Juan, probably something distracted him.... :lol: Anyway, he should have been hardmounted on this shot, prabably would have been better executed, it´s definitely not bad but not perfect. Who did the shot? Anybody knows?

It´s "just" a composite link, but as it is a COFDM link it should be as close to 100% stable as it´s ever going to be. Specs here Good price as well, £ 2500. 100ms latency (about 2,5 frames) Anybody used it?

If you don´t have an HD monitor you need a downconverter (You might need it anyway if you have a non HD transmitter). Powercables are not that expensive, a couple for each camera you work with is a good investment, even on a RED the weight starts to build up when you add everything. Last time I flew one it was about the same weight as an ARRI LT (recorded on harddrive and using an IDX HD transmitter.)

Hi Dan, where in Sweden? In Stockholm you have www.ljud-bildmedia.se +46 8 540 279 26 They have an MK-V at a nice price and also Scorpio and Preston FIZ. They also rent the RED and should have any accessories you might need for flying a RED. If you are in Stockholm and need help you can reach me at +46 (0)707 411808 /Peter Oh, and bring warm clothes...

Thank you Koen, but that didn´t really help as it was the controller side that was ripped. Anyway, I got the attached picture from Hans at Bebop if anyone else need it. This is for the Zoe III 8C and 12F. For Zoe 8F flip white and brown.

Jason, or anybody else... did you get the wirediagram for the Bebob remote? I kind of ripped out most of the cables from my Zoe III today. If I open up the controller this is what still attached: from left to right: Rec: 1:yellow 2:grey Ret: 1:xx 2:xx zoom: 1:blue 2:xx 3:xx Cables unatached (to go to the xx): green, white, brown, pink. Or maybe if somebody have the pinout for a Canon videolens zoom connector, I can go from there. Thanks in advance.

Thanks all for your input. Now all I have to do is decide... Still waiting for a price quote from Preston. I did get a very good offer from Hedén as you might have guessed and I am a little over budget with investments this year as it is. On the other hand, I won´t get the Preston until well into next year, sometimes long lead time is a good thing :rolleyes:

auch, that´s harsh... :lol: actually I believe the Heden is up to par with the DM-2, after all the C-motion system is delivered with the M26VE. I´m under the impression that the M26VE will work with the Preston without any modification, otherwise I wouldn´t even consider using it. I´ll have to check up on that. I´ve been using a Heden M28VPT with my BFD for the last five years and never had a problem so I´m not familiar with Hedens service. Anybody else had any experience with that, good or bad? I like the integrated "bracket" that the Heden has, very simple to attach and adjust to perfect position, very handy when using the Pro35 adapters where motor placement is very important for not having the motor to bind. Actually, the only bracket I carry is a dogbone for offset and I have only had to use it once. They also have a damn good gear system as well. That brings me to another question for all you Preston users, what type of motor brackets would I need for the DM motors? Do I need all the different brackets Preston have (3 I believe) for each motor, or is the one Jerry Hill makes (PAM) a good substitute? I have no doubt in the service from Preston, but the shipping alone is 24 hours at best, one way. So in reallity it would take about a week to get anything fixed regardless how fast they are at Preston...

About to upgrade to a Preston, but thinking of maybe using Hedéns digital motor M26VE, (nice to have next door service on the motors at least....) Anybody have any experience with this motor together with the Preston?

Had the same problem with my G-70. A drop of fine oil or teflon spray at the spring ends takes care of it. see this post for the G-50 arm: here!