Aaron King

As you have seen, Tiffen doesn't update their page too often. The G40 arm was what was originally sold with the Archer rig, but after most buyers preferred to pair it with the G50, they discontinued the G40 arm all together. Now that they have improved on the G50 and G70 arms, the new X series is what are being sold with their rigs. What you see on the price list page is the correct information on what you are buying. The G50 and G50X have the same lift capacity, the only difference is in the improved performance of the arms movements.

Thanks Eric and Peter, for the advice. I will try the chapstick method first since I have that readily available. Eric, I will PM you with my info to try out that Froglube sample. Again, thanks.

It's definitely metal on metal, happening in the socket block spar adjustment area where it meets the center spar. I'm located in Nashville, and they don't have Froglube listed in the area on their page, but I will call up some places close by and double check. Is Froglube similar to teflon?

I have been getting quite a bit of creeks and pops in my LX Vest here lately, probably the same thing that was being experienced with the Ultra vest. It's very frustrating. I have tried to isolate and solve the problem on my own with temporary results. Was anything ever achieved by anyone? This thread just comes to an abrupt stop with no solution. Just thought I would ask everyone first before I give someone a call.

One job I was using a RED 17-75 zoom, and the other job was a set of Zeiss Primes using the 18mm and 25mm.

I own the Digital Bartech with an M-One motor and was wondering if others have had this issue. The past two jobs I have been on, the 1st AC's pointed out to me that when turning the knob one direction the focus marks lined up, but when then going the opposite direction the marks where just slightly off. They both weren't concerned since it was just off by a fraction, but it concerned me. I myself hadn't noticed it before, but examining it closer it appeared there is a hair delay in one direction with the response time from turning the knob to the motor. Anyone else have this issue? I figured I would check with other owners before contacting Jim.

A good question to ask your self would be "Is the F3 the only camera you ever plan to work with". Will there ever be a time when you might get called for a job that requires a larger camera or payload? Don't limit your choice to just one camera, but to where you would like to go further down the road. Find a rig that will not only work great for an F3 but for many more camera options and build configurations. An F3 can be a dream weight and can quickly become very heavy depending on the job.

I operate with an Archer 2 and have it with the SD monitor. When I purchased a year ago I decided against HD because I needed that extra money for others things like batteries and cables. I use a downconverter with it and haven't had any problems. The wiring in the post is HD ready, so if you go the SD monitor route you can upgrade one day with no problems.

I work with the Archer 2 set up and the heaviest payload I have carried was pushing 40lbs and I as well had the post near fully extended. It was an ungodly camera setup for a student project, so they did not have access to proper gear for steadicam use. I used one Power Cube, and a heavier off brand batt to give more bottom weight. My post wasn't fully extended, but close, with the battery stage angled down. I did find once during that day that a couple of the hex screws in the gimbal handle came loose and created friction. Quick fix and all was well. It very well could have been caused by me during docking over time not coming in at proper angles and working it loose. Beyond that, I felt no issues and haven't had any since, and I have worked with payloads close that a time or two since but I have been better prepared. I think your issue is using the antlers and getting to much of your weight up top and not close to the gimbal. That is why you have to fully extend your post and add bottom weight to compensate for all the top weight. Try it without the antlers and use a weight plate instead under the camera keeping the weight near the gimbal. This will allow you shorten your post and get rid of the extra weight on the bottom. With 20+ pounds, your post shouldn't have to be extended that much at all and no where near damaging your gimbal. For more reference, check out this thread from Chris Fawcett. http://www.steadicamforum.com/index.php?showtopic=10358

Have you even tried looking on the Steadicam website? I just looked and they sell the sled to Alexa cable you need. Also, check East Coast Cables because he makes it too. Also, I'm not going to say it won't work, but isn't an Alexa with all accessories kind of pushing the boundaries of the Zephyr and it's arm?

Around this time last year I was working on a small feature and we were doing a full week of night shoots. For some reason, I was never able to get my body and internal clock to adjust to sleeping during the day, which resulted in a major loss of sleep. Even sleeping pills weren't keeping me asleep for a full rest. By Thursday that week I was exhausted and on my drive home, 45min away, sleep got the better of me and I ran off the road head on into a telephone pole. Destroyed my car and a lot of tools and things in there. I was super lucky to be able to walk away from that accident with some assistance and had severe pain and bruising for a good two months. It shook me up for days after that. Everyone knows it, but you have got to be careful when working long odd hours. I learned it the hard way.

I as well had been in the same boat with ordering one back a few months ago. I seemed to place the order just days after his move began and he shut down shop. Once I got into the second month of waiting I began calling on a weekly basis always checking in on the status of my order. It was becoming tiring knowing that I had a brand new Digital Bartech just sitting in my office that I couldn't use without the digital motor (which no one in Nashville at the time has a digital setup that I know of) so I was still having to rent a full system when jobs came about. I was losing money. Finally, I was called for a really great job and I was bound and determined to use my own focus. As soon as I got off the phone with the producers for this job, I called up Don to again check on my order and he said it was being worked on and would ship out in the next few days. I flat out said that I needed it that Friday in time to prep on Saturday. Don said okay, and it came in the mail Thursday. Don knows he is backed up and that several people are waiting on a their products. Do not email, call him directly - (406)837-1370 - during the middle of the day when you know he will be working, and just lay it out for him. He has your money and you now need your motor. You don't have to be rude, just tell him you need what you rightfully paid for and give a deadline. It worked for me and this was only two weeks ago.

Well I guess now it's obvious what tool I haven't really used before. Thanks Richard, I just looked it up after your response and saw the specs. I guess I should have done that first, but thanks again.

I am operating an Archer 2 rig with a 7" SD Tiffen Monitor. Today at a prep I came across an odd glitch where I was receiving video to my monitor without any video cables attached to it. It was a RED camera using a Downconverter & Modulus 3000. From the Camera video out I went into the Decimator and then Composite Out to the Modulus. I then went Active Loop out to run video through the sled to my monitor. Once the Modulus was up and running, my monitor image got a lot of static and while attempting to figure it out I unplugged the BNC from the Active Loop (for my monitor) and never lost image. In fact, I unplugged all BNC running to the sled monitor and never lost picture. Through out the rest of the prep today I never lost signal, even when powering everything down and booting back up I still was receiving video to my monitor with no BNC. Any idea how this was happening?

Thanks Charles.

I blew the fuse on my Decimator over the weekend and am needing to get it repaired. It is still under warranty, but I was just wanting to know if Decimator has a place here in the states I can contact, or if I have to send it to their headquarters in Australia. I haven't any experience with circuit boards to repair it on my own.

Akin, I've been waiting for my M-One as well, and I literally just got off the phone with Don checking in on the order. He has moved his shop from California to Montana, which caused him to temporarily shut down. He is back up and running and he confirmed for me that I should be receiving my motor next week. He said that he is going to be working through the weekend in order to fulfill all backorders. Just continue to call him at 406-837-1370 as I have more luck getting through to him over the phone rather than email. Hopefully you will receive your order very soon.

I to previously ordered a new M-One and never heard anything. I called and emailed several times but never got through and began to get nervous. I completely missed the note on Loon Works website about the move happening, but Jim Bartell was the one who informed me that Don was moving and that he would be up and operational in a few days. Since then, I have successfully talked to Don at Loon Video confirming my order and received an email that my order had finally been Approved and Processed. My order should be arriving any day now. I jumped to rash conclusions before knowing the full situation, just give him time and all will be well.

Awesome. Thanks Jim for clearing up the air on that over the phone and here on the site. I really appreciate it and can now rest easy and know that I did make a good choice on the purchase.

Well that's not reassuring. Have you been able to at least have the bank cancel the order and refund the money? Is there anyone out there who has spoken with Loon Works that can help get the ball rolling?

So, I ordered a M-One Digital motor from Loon Video last week and paid for 2 Day Shipping. I have not yet received it or gotten a tracking number. I have called all available numbers, sent Don an email and sent messages to Loon Works, but never hear a peep. In fact the voice mail is full so I can't even leave a message. Anyone else still having troubles contacting Loon Video? I know it was mentioned Don was moving, but is this still the case?

Yeah, I did the job yesterday and had zero problems. I had a strange thought that the vibration in the Letus motor might cause some problems with balance, but there were absolutely no issues. We were good to go, except the way the camera was built created a lot of unneeded intertia, but all was well.

I am getting ready to do a small job with an EX3 using a Letus Pro adaptor. What kind of complications does the vibration from the Letus cause in keeping the rig balanced that I should be aware of? Thanks for any advice.

The "big rigs" aren't going anywhere as they are very well needed, but the type of market you are in is what should be a driving force in the size equipment you have. For myself, I live and work in an area where budgets tend to be getting smaller and thus camera packages are shrinking. We are using predominately all 5D and RED cameras, and the first Alexa just hit our market. I wanted to get a bigger rig, but looking at the direction our market is moving in it just proved more vital to get an Archer 2. It's a rig that is more appealing to the size budgets we are approached with and it is fully capable of flying our standard camera packages. As time goes by and I grow as an operator, I know a time will come that I will outgrow the weight range of the Archer 2, but until then it is doing a great job for me.

Thanks Jason, I will look him up.