Alan Rencher

You probably used a cable that wasn't wired for your Scout. Your monitor fried because you created a short when you plugged in the cable; basically the cable shorted the positive line to ground, and the Marshall monitor doesn't have short circuit protection. You'll have to get your Marshall main board replaced. Anton/Bauer Dionic batteries (and newer) have built-in breakers to prevent damage in the event of a short, so I'm guessing maybe you were using batteries that don't have that protection. Always test cables before you plug them in, even when buying from the manufacturer, and never guess when buying a cable. Only buy cables that are propose built for your devices. In this industry, you rarely find something that is truly "plug and play."

I saw it. It looks pretty awesome.

Hey Steadi-people! I have entered my company, Media Blackout, in the Chase Main Street Grants program. We are need of at least 250 votes to be eligible to win a grant. As you may know, I started posting custom cabling solutions through an easy to use online portal about a year ago. I hope to continue to improve my service to the Steadicam community going forward, and I would really appreciate you taking a minute out of your day to cast your vote for Media Blackout. It only takes a mouse click. Their system verifies votes by linking each vote to a Facebook account, so you must be logged into Facebook to vote. Thank you for your time, and I hope you take a moment to vote! Please follow this link to vote: https://www.missionmainstreetgrants.com/b/70789

Grant Culwell might still have his for sale.

All you have to do is find where the DC converter is, and wire a switch to interrupt the 24V input on it. If you're not to keen on that kind of stuff, take the sled to someone who is familiar with system.

Nyrius is physically incapable of multicast.

Brendan, listen you Brian. He is 100% right. Don't be the guy who gets his parents to buy him $60k worth of film gear, only to give it away to the lowest bidder because he can't get work. Nobody likes that guy, and it's detrimental to the whole industry.

+1,000 on what Brian said.

Boxx showed off an integrated monitor with two receivers built-in at NAB, as well.

Andrew, if the engineers can make the new receiver with the same footprint as the paralinx arrow receiver, then you can utilize the SmallHD Arrow Dock for the DP-7. That would be the best solution.

It's been quite awhile since I've updated this thread, but we have been up to a lot over here in Culver City! I'll start by reiterating that we still have a coupon for first-time purchases for forum readers: "steadi" Here's some of what new at MediaBlackout.net: Canon C500/C300/100 regulated power cable - http://mediablackout.net/product/canon-eos-cinema-power-cable/ RED Lemo to Cat5e cable - http://mediablackout.net/product/red-dsmc-lemo-to-cat5e-cable/ Lemo connectors to make cables yourself - http://mediablackout.net/product/lemo-connectors/ Preston MDR3 Cables - http://mediablackout.net/product/preston-mdr3-cables/ USB to Lemo 12V Booster - http://mediablackout.net/product/lemo-usb-booster-cable/ XLR-4 Power Cables to power cameras (+more) from your sled - http://mediablackout.net/product/4-pin-xlr-power-cable/ MegaFlex Upgrade for Red LCD/EVF cables - http://mediablackout.net/product/red-lcd-evf-upgrade/ 28V power supply for Arri cameras - http://mediablackout.net/product/28psu-28v-power-supply/ P-Tap to Lemo socket adapter - http://mediablackout.net/product/p-tap-plug-to-lemo-socket-adapter/

If the display on the A/B battery was flashing, it is indeed a short. SmallHD wires their Hirose differently than the standard, so be sure that your cable is for the SmallHD. A break somewhere in the cable can also cause a short.

Robert is right. You can't sign away your rights. I would be more worried about financial losses.

It uses the same 3-pin as the Alexa, so your Alexa cables will work.

Anton/Bauer has the new designs for the digital batteries finished (from what I heard at NAB). They are supposed to be a little shorter, but a little deeper than HCX.

Karl, Zoho Books has accounting. It's easy to upgrade.

I talked with Gary at NAB, and he gave me a tour of the monitor. It's very bright! We took it out when the sun was high in the sky, and it was perfectly usable. Since there is no glass over the LCD panel, there is no glare and no need for AR coating. Some people might prefer to have glass over the panel to protect it, but the way I look at it is, it would only ever be damaged when not framing a shot. I always keep a poly carbonate cover over my screens when not in use to protect them, so that's not an issue for me. An LCD panel can also take a little bit of moisture with no problem, and I've found that replacing a broken panel is very inexpensive and easy when there is no bonded glass involved. As far as the other features of the monitor, most of the usual suspects are there: They made the scopes more transparent when overlaying them, it has conversion to and from HDMI and SDI, they've added an 8-pin connector with a pinout matching the Pro Monitor (power, composite, and tally). Be aware that their tally protocol is short to ground, which is opposite from some other monitors. You'll need an adapter (which over made before) when using a Tiffen tally system or a Zalex style tally. The level needs work. I gave them some feedback, so hopefully it will be refined more. I didn't find it to be useful at the time of testing as it has a bit of a lag, and the sensitivity couldn't be adjusted. I also don't think it has any sort of gyro compensation yet. I still think it would be cool to be able to plug a Wagner into it for level readout. The monitor itself is bulkier than a DP7, but it's actually lighter than it looks. It has mounting points on all sides, and it looked like it was made from a brake metal casing. It has lots of useful buttons, and some are assignable. Overall, I think this is an excellent monitor for the price bracket, and they are still tweaking it specifically for Steadicam operators. I want to say thank you to Gary and the Boland team for taking the time to show me everything! Oh, and their stuff is made on the USA, which is a big deal to me. I would call it a great selling point, actually. - Alan

WTB: Heden Digital Motor, preferably M21VE-L Located on Los Angeles Alanjrencher@gmail.com

"You're a towel"

From Alexa manual SUP 11.0

Also, if you are feeding the Alexa 12V, it's built-in distro (24V outputs) boosts that voltage to 24V instead of passing the unregulated voltage along.

Do you have a photo of the part in question?

I think MK-V still sell FMG 6 motors. You might also try Magnus at Heden.

Mcmaster.com