James Davis

Personally I quite like assigning it to the Zoom rocker on the side of the unit, this is really easy to do, go into TX Config, select Map Roll input and then you just select zoom rocker.

So the first thing I noticed more than anything is it looks like the rig isn't in static balance, as you seem to be continually fighting the rig to attempt to level the horizon and it never once settles into a level position and continually seems to go off level in the same direction. The next thing is you are definitely gripping the rig too tight with your operating hand, way too tight, this will introduce a pendulum effect as you walk because you grip is too tight to correct for inertia related forces that throw the rig off level on the tilt axis. Some great suggestions here from everyone else, but yourself the operators handbook, add a little bit of extra weight and length to the build of possible to give it a bit more inertia a heavy on-board battery and a matte box can work wonders. But more importantly I would suggest going back to basics and reviewing your technique against what's suggested in the handbook, make sure the rig is balanced correctly so that when you are standing with good posture you should be able to remove both hands and float the rig in its default operating position, you shouldn't have to force it into position with your hands, a faster drop time often helps when learning operating technique initially with lighter rigs, something around 1.5-2 seconds. Make sure your grip is correct etc etc....

Yes, I feel very fortunate to be getting an exceptional amount of work with my MOVI M15 kit that I have designed and customised along with a team of other people. The key to this tool as people like Pedro, Motion State, Chris Herr etc will attest is using it to move the camera in ways that would be either impossible or very difficult with other tools, this is what gets DOPs/Directors excited and continually calling you back to work with them. I guess like a lot of things, it's more about the Operator than the kit, although gimbals require a lot of extra toys to afford you the capabilities to offer these shots. In terms of rates, I have no problem charging the same whether I do MOVI or Steadicam, but then my MOVI set-up has probably ended up costing the same as my steadicam set-up, if you really want all the options you need QRP mounts, scaff mounts, moy mounts, joystick/MOVI controller and wheels, a slingshot rig and an easyrig/serene arm based set-up for tighter spaces, a nice cart set-up too....it really does take a lot of toys, a lot more extra crap than we are arguably used to and it certainly makes some old school operators sigh with negativity because they simply don't understand what they are missing out on..... the creative possibilities are incredibly exciting. As Brett already stated it is a whole new set of toys/tools and skills to learn but have faith, once you understand it there is a huge advantage to being a "MOVI/gimbal operator" with a steadicam and remote head background once you full understand the tech side of it. I'm a big MOVI fan because frankly although they are the most expensive, they are still the best and offer the most versatility in my book, with gimbals it's not really about payload it's about flexibility and tune-ability, Freefly still have one of the best gimbal brains and best developed software out there by a country mile, they are becoming the industry standard for good reason. The Ronin gets the job done, but the MOVI M15 is the "Pro Rig" of the gimbal world at present in my humble opinion.

Hey Artur, In conjunction with moving the hip pads a little lower I would also try loosening off the shoulder straps a little bit and expanding the adjustable front spar a tiny bit until you are able to position the "Chest Straps" somewhere around the bottom of your rib cage, right now they are around halfway up your rib cage, which in my experience is not a very comfortable position. That should make everything a bit more comfortable overall, i've found with front mount vests that let you have the option to adjust this section or are fitted to you perfectly in this area (Pro/Artemis) this makes the vest feel a little more responsive also.

Is the sidekick still compatible with these?

I always supply my own Alexa plates a proper Steadicam specific one for the bottom and a cheese plate for the top so I can mount antlers easily if I need to or go into proper low mode.

On a zephyr? No chance.

Kit, I found quite early on that I preferred to operate with the rig on this side, I tried operating "the normal way" or regular, but it felt so unnatural and awkward, the moment I switched and tried operating goofy I knew I would never go back. Strangely I am not left handed though, I am right handed, but I am also somewhat ambidextrous. I don't think there is anything wrong with operating this way, it seems to be quite common over in the UK, personally I find it's quite nice for my spatial awareness, because whether I am handheld or on Steadicam I am always used to being aware and moving with the camera on the right side of my body. Just my two pence.

-Personally I would be looking to find a UK dealer to offer grown up support for any system I bought into. CVP or The Lens Foundry -I would be interested in a gimbal system that used my existing investment in Vlock batteries.. ideally from a belt pack.. why handhold a brick? The Freefly MOVI M15....keep the v-locks for the control unit maybe, but personally for the gimblal itself I have a better solution that I have moved onto which is superior to the LIPO's or V-locks. -Also Im interested in a single axis gimbal that would offer me 'perfect horizon' but be mounted on my steadicam so stabilised in XYZ and also actually using operator input to pan and tilt. The Wave 1, by Betz tools available through Optical Support. Im currently interested flying the affordable Black Magic Micro camera which offering 1080 pro-res in a small form holds out some interesting hopes for flying.. be that on a (brushless) gimbal, small Steadicam, or hybrid device of some nature. I can't offer any advice on that front, I don't use Black Magic cameras for anything but a MOVI M15 will handle Alexa Mini, Red Epic, C300 etc with a wide variety of lenses.

First one looks like it could be an archer 2 gimbal

Possibly the dumbest topic ever created.

Looks like the relatively new Mini-Libra head

Hi Chris, I have a complete Preston G4 single channel set-up I was looking at selling in the new year, in great condition, with a nice custom case and a DM2x motor. I'll drop you a message/email when I get a minute.

It's a cool mod, but if you guys aren't liking the Klassen vest for this reason, then you should try the Exovest, which manages to achieve exactly what you are after with this mod, without having to have a million different straps running over your body.

Hello Philippe, Have you tested this using "mimic mode" to drive a MOVI M15? It would be amazing for that, Curious to hear your thoughts. James

I had an inguinal hernia when I was much younger, way before I did Steadicam, it's nothing to do with heavy weight training, all sorts of things can cause it, often continual repeated strain on the area, sometimes it can be something as pathetic as a cough in an awkward position. For me I think it was years of kicking heavy bags in martial arts, although my Dad and brother have both had one in the exact same spot at totally different times in their lives, so maybe it's a genetic weakness. The mesh repair technique was what we all had and none of us have had issues since, I would expect to need 3-4 weeks off minimum, it is sore as hell the first week or two and then seems to get progressively more comfortable as the days go on.

Loosen the upper lock ring, remove junction box and topstage as one piece, disconnect main cable, slide gimbal of the top of the post.

No there's more to it than that Ron, it's best you call or email them so they can explain it to you properly, but Chris showed me it and it has it's own very robust locking mechanism to secure everything in place. It looks like a far more secure option than attaching your docking ring to the post lock ring. I would try and describe it but I only saw a brief demo in passing from Chris.

Some pictures on their facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/opticalsupportltd?fref=ts

Hey guys, You should email optical support and check out their awesome lock/dock ring that replaces both the lock ring up top and jerry hill docking ring. I've seen it in person and it is a fantastically well made and robust piece of kit, pricey, but I think on my list of future upgrades for sure.

Pic http://www.steadicamforum.com/index.php?showtopic=22504&do=findComment&comment=111630

Always an issue with this system whenever I've seen one on set, thankfully it's never on my camera or sled! Stick with Preston/Arri/Bartech/Hocus Products....they are all rock solid. Newer C-motions are great too but the older ones had some range/interference issues. The whole losing connection when within 2-3 feet would be a total no go for me, imagine a tracking shot on a tight lens through a hallway or something and your focus puller gets up close and personal whilst pulling and the signal drops, the shot would be useless within an instant I don't see how that is an issue that is tolerable day to day? Why waste time with kit that is going to shaft you and make you look bad?

Tiffen rig? No....Pro Cinelive with the Gen 4 base.

I would be interested to know the weight of each battery too, thanks.

Random question, do these only charge on Anton Bauers own brand chargers, or would they be compatible with say bebop gold mount chargers for instance?