xddj

Bryan, I`m useing Ted Churchill design monitor bracket - seems to work great so far. Also the cable connector that you are looking for is HR10-7P-6P 6-pin male Hirose plug. In my monitor I do have Hirose connector as well, so I`m only useing one cable to connect my CRT with the EFP. You can do the cable that will suit your needs with no problem at all. If you would require pin-outs for EFP connectors just let me know. Good luck!

I wonder if any of you have been useing similar devices to record your shoots? Are they any good? Seems to be the best alternative. Can be used as a 2nd monitor for Don Juan. Price seems to be quite fair.

I`m curius of that either. I have created my login before I realized it should be my real name. I wouldn`t like to create new account but to keep the one with a history of posts. Can this be done? Thanks, Marcin Brauer

You are 100% right David, I was refering to page no. 2 it has this "13" number on the right side and I was to tired to make sure that this is actually a page number :) Sorry for that. About makeing the board. Yes that is possible. The trick is to unmount the potentiometer from the monitor board then make a new board with two potentiometers of that same kind and a switch and simply connect it to the monitor board via cables. Then the only thing needed to be done is to set the correct aspec ratio (screen height) on both potentiometers. Marcin

I think I`ve found the reason why the motor wouldn`t stop. The potentiometer that reports the position is broken. I will try to find replacement a then test the unit. Anyway, I would still like to get in touch with someone with the same setup :) UPDATE: I connected another 10kΩ potentiometer that I found in my junk (unfortunatly not the same dimentions - so I still need to order replacement), and the motor is working correctly.

I have recived today a lens motor that I bought on eBay. It is a CP/Heden hybrid. It seems to have an amplifyier on board so I was trying to connect it directly to my reciver. Unfortunatly the engine keeps turning all the time. I would try to connect it to amplifier but I don`t have 4-pin lemo to 5-pin lemo (thi is the connector on the amp) cable. Also I could try to connect the engine itself to the amp but again I don`t have 2-pin lemo to 5-pin lemo cable as well. So I would like to ask if any of you have the same kind of setup running, and if so how sould I connect it to work? Or the other thing that would be very appreciated is a lemo connector description for 5pin connector. That way I would be able to do the cables myself. BTW: I have a M28VP running with this FF system - so there are no problems with the reciver/amp/sender. Thanks, Marcin

Gus, You can find it here: OnLine Shop Producer You can contact them at klixon@ti.com Ask them for the price - maybe it will be cheaper to order a lot - let say 10 of them. I think that there won`t be a problem of finding here people that would like some. I would for sure - I have an EFP running but it would be nice to have a back-up. Let us know, Marcin

Hi Alec, I guess that is based on the technology that Samsung was planning to explore after finnishing improvments with OLED displays. Samsung FED If it will be what they say it would, than we shall soon be able to forget about monitor hoods on ours rigs ;) Marcin

Hi Chip, Would it be possible for you to scan the EFP manual into PDF (jpeg - or whatever other eletronic format) and share it with us (2nd hand EFP owners)? I think we all will be VERY garatefull :) Thanks, Marcin

Doug, I guess that depends on the equipment that you`r flying. I have an EFP rig, and the sled is perfectly align thanks to a hole along telescopic post which is engage by a screw placed in a clamp in the gimbal-section post. I don`t know if you could understand the above, but when I be back from Dennmark on Friday I can put a photo for you if you like. Cheers! Marcin

Bryan, You can adjust this monitor to 16:9 by turning VR12 potentiometer (see page 13 of Service Manual ) Before you do that equipt your self with a plastic screwdriver (plastic tip that is) - no to cause a shot circut. If you feel unconfortable with this operation than ask some friendly eletronic guy to do it for you. What you need to do is take your camera and a piece of paper with either circle or some rectangles. Make the camera film (in 16:9 mode) the piece of paper - conect it to the monitor and adjust this VR12 screw to get the picture right. Good luck, Marcin

Hi Bryan, I don`t know this monitor to tell you which knob exacly you need to turn to adjust to 16:9. I will try to get in touch with a person who has helped me with my monitor settings - may be he will be able to send you some details regarding switching to 16:9. Best regards, Marcin

Hi, Ussualy when you connect PAL signal to NTSC monitor the picture is being displayed OK. It is different when it is NTSC signal to PAL monitor - then the picture is "jumping". - that is based on my experience. Anyway every monitor/tv has a knob inside to regulate vertical synchro - usually the potentiometer described as V-HOLD. This is how you can adjust PAL/NTSC signal (framerate). Hope this helps, Marcin

Hi Bryan, I`m owning an EFP with a 4:3 monitor (Chrosziel), and when I`m shooting 16:9 the only thing I need to do is to turn V-PHASE potentiometer or whatever that is called. So if you want to save money - what is generally desireable in our profesion - tell me what model of monitor do you have and maybe I would be able to tell you exacly what you need to do :) b.r. Marcin

Thanks Jim - make sens NP`s are very cheap. All in all, I`m thinking of changing batery system on my rig. I`m curently useing PAGlok with brick battery, but they are very expensive and I can`t do much with only two bricks. And buying new battery is just crazy. I could easly do 4-5 battery packs from modellers power cells - high-cap NiCd... More I`m getting into this stuff, more I think that all I`m paying is the brand... but hey, that`s the way it is, all a ned to do is accept the fact :/

Looking for some PAGlok battery shells or batteries in poor condition. Also good working order would be nice but has to be in a good price. xddj_steadicam@o2.pl

Yeah! That was my first thought to put two 14.4V battery pack in serial, but then I saw that most of the rig producers/upgraters have inverters on theirs products - that is were the question arised. Anyway great to hear that the common use it the standard one of combining two batteries ;) Thanks for help

I`m looking for power inverter for film cameras, but I don`t know theirs power consumption. Could someone share this info with me. Will 1A@24V be enough to power let say Movicam or Arri cams? Marcin

Looking for Hedén motors for Remote Follow Focus unit Seitz 8710A. Used units in good working order with accessories (gears etc.) Prefered location EUROPE. Marcin Brauer xddj_steadicam@o2.pl

Hi there, There are wire focus controlers for sure, but they are higly unprofesional. This is due to the fact that PD150 is useing fly-by-wire focus and zoom control. So you can not set a position for specific distace on the scale, you just have to adjust it "on hunch" :( Here you have the links: Manfrotto Zoe

Hi Rob! I have finally had some free time to make the cage. It`s not that beutyfull nor great finished but I have tested and it is working great. It is made of aluminium (I had some pieces in my garage). The total weight is 6kg. Top plate is 30cm x 15cm x 2cm and 3kg. Bottom plate is 40cm x 15cm x 2cm and 2,7kg. The pillars (pipes :) ) are 30cm in length and 1,5cm diameter weighting all together 0,3kg. Took 4,5 hours to do but now I`m ready to fly :D Thanks again for your help!

Hi Alec, Great that we on track again. :) I hope to have the cage ready at the end of next week (and steel it is :D ) Thanks again for help.

Now just hold on a minute. Who said anything about dismissing Rob`s (or any other steadicam operator) work?! Maybe there was some misscomunication on the way. English is not my native language, so it is possible that I put some unapropriate words (happens all the time: it sound diferent if you say eg. "give me coffe" than "should you be so kind to pure me some coffe") for that I`m very sorry. I haven`t come here to afend anyone. More than that, I have a great respect for All of you here. The knowlage, that you all poses was the reason I come here in the first place. Reciently I have managed to put enough money aside to buy myself "the real thing". I have come here to ask for advice in the purchase, and I got more then I ever wanten. So many people willing to help me with the choice. So here I am ownyng my own EFP - Great thing!!! Although, I`m still in debt a bit. I need to start useing the rig. I have a lot of experience in working with metal - so I decided to do the cage myself (don`t take me wrong - I would love to buy it from Rob, just don`t have founds for it). It will take some time and materials (that are allready in my garage) so the finale effect will cost me 15? - however if I was to sell it to anyone I think Rob price is lower than I would be willing to sell mine for. So again - Rob cage is great and in Very good price - it is just I can aford it right now :( As for my non-inteligent question, I`m sorry to ask it - but haveing some experience in electronic and phisics my cosirn was real - especialy that I have recived this advice from the person who have sold me my rig.... Now for my "childish" alias - I am a person who respect my right to privacy. I`m not using my real name over the internet because I have a free will and I don`t won`t to see my name on some spamer mails or used in any other way that I have not decided to use it for. I think I have a right to do so, wouldn`t you agree? I`m not hiding from you, just protecting privacy. I hope this will set things straight again - I`m not seeking enemys here, quite the oposite in fact. Best regards, Marcin Brauer

I have made a steadicam by myself not so long ago, so this cage is not a challange for me. I would prefer to spend 350? on something else and make myself a cage for 15? :D I was under impression that all the videocams, computer cables etc. are using alluminium caseing/shielding - which is immune to any magnetic fields... Grounded - ofcourse - all electrons should be faceing the same directon in order to preserve static shield. Anyway let`s not go deeper in this - we both have our own opinions - no sens in exploring them further. Thanks

I thought it was strange too, however in theory there could be a problem with steel cage if it let say stay near to a magnet (eg speaker etc.) then the magnetic field of the cage could interfere with the magnetic field use to record image on the tape. So phisically possible, I was just asking for your experiance... Now as for dimentions I was planning to use the following: 15cm X 45cm X2cm for the gound plate - the top plate 15cm X 30cm x 2cm and distance between them around 40cm - Any suggestions on that?