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Found 11 results

  1. FOR SALE UK: Upgraded Steadicam Flyer LE HD system with Zephyr Vest & Atomos Shogun Flame! In original square case with: - power & video cables, - custom monitor mount with rails, - custom lower junction box with HDSDI & XLR4 power outputs, - dual rotating v-lock battery plates which can be set to supply 12v or 24v power to camera, - custom docking bracket extension for dynamic balance spinning, and hanging the vest - big Allen key for gimbal adjustment - original SD monitor modified for XLR power & BNC Video - as new Steadicam Zephyr vest, a big improvement over the original Flyer one! Looking for around £4000 including the Atomos Shogun Flame high bright HD & 4K monitor/recorder. I will sell without the Shogun Flame for £3200. This Steadicam®️ will fly everything from DSLRs to broadcast cameras, FS7s, URSA Minis & even Alexa Minis. The Flyer LE has been well used but is in great, fully functional condition. The arm’s has a few knocks over the years but nothing more than would be expected of a tool like this. I’ve shot everything from indie feature films to Red Dwarf, outside broadcasts to Bear Grylls with this & love it, but it’s time to upgrade. The kit is in Salisbury, Wiltshire (Novochok land...) so if you can get here you're welcome to check everything out. No cameras, batteries or other accessories included bar those listed above, just thought you might like to see the rig in action with a variety of cameras & accessories, autocues, wireless transmitters, etc. Price needs UK VAT added, sorry.
  2. Hey everyone, Been using the Steadicam Pilot for a few years, on a very occasional basis and I'm generally very happy with it. Tempted to upgrade to the Aero 30 as I'm now mostly flying Red cameras, but in the meantime the one thing I'd like to look at is upgrading the crappy Merlin/Pilot vest with the plastic chestpiece of doom. Any recommendations for something a little sturdier, not too expensive and that can easily take the pilot arm? Thanks all.
  3. Hello Everyone! For those of you with an SD Pro I sled, an HD-SDI Upgrade is now affordable and a real option. We have spent a considerable amount of time researching, developing and refining the installation of a very high quality upgrade, with materials and components sourced from only reputable companies from around the world. We have also negotiated with FedEx, a special rate so that we can move a specific item anywhere around the world. Upgrade Includes On the front of the upper-junction box, the LEMO socket marked VID/PWR will be removed and replaced with an HD-SDI BNC socket, which has been gold-plated for corrosion resistance by a German manufacturer. The original BNC to the right will remain. Center post/LEMO plug The surgery performed is not a bypass, but a transplant. Due to the nature of the upgrade, the Rig's Loom/Wiring Harness will be removed and replaced with a coiled, purpose-made cable assembly. The LEMO plug at the bottom of the coiled cable will have a new LEMO with HD-SDI insert installed. The Bayonet connection between the centre post and the lower junction box will stay the same. Lower Junction Box At the top of the lower junction box, the original LEMO plug socket parts will be replaced with new purpose-made components with HD-SDI. On the front of the lower junction box another gold-plated HD-SDI BNC socket will be fitted to the right of the Monitor LEMO socket, along with the installation of the new internal cabling. The original BNC in the rear of the lower junction box remains. Both the original upper-and-lower junction box BNC sockets can then be used for a standard definition video signal or tally light. Development We have consulted a number of operators who have worked with us on this project, and have had HD-SDI upgrades installed into their rigs several years ago that have performed flawlessly, and with their feedback we have now settled on this configuration. If you want more specific information regarding things like shipping, turnabout time, pricing etc. please contact us. Contact - admin@steadyrig.com -Hugo
  4. Hello, my dear steadicam gurus. I just graduated from film school, (I am 23 right now) and I decided to go serious about my carrier as a steadicam operator. I've made some mistakes along the way to start this business, such as buying CAME-TV steadicam as my first rig, and buy many 3rd party accessories to minimize my budget. I know many of you criticize that this rig will not be acceptable in professional field, and initially I disagreed. However more research I do and more gig offers I get, I realize I do need better equipments that last long and perform effectively. In a way, I learned my lesson in a hard way. Now, as you can tell from the fact that I try to minimize my budget to start my carrier, I don't have much to start with, and especially not 30k-50k. I was about to give up on pursuing this carrier until I bumped into rent-to-own program and leasing options. I was looking into GPI Pro rigs, because it offered rent-to-own program while offering solid service, and it was the same for Steady Rig although they only sell arm component. Then as I research more, I realize I can talk to credit union to get loans if I want to get gears from other companies. This option will let me go on a track to be in the business, but as I am young and unexperienced with financial world, I am very concerned if I will be eligible for loans, so I am asking advice from folks who were also in same path as I was, I want to hear from your perspectives how you guys handled the initial budgets and which would you guys recommend me between lease, loans, and rent-to-own programs. On a different question, I am very new to upgrading sled with different components, so I want to know what is absolute feature in sleds that I should consider if I am choosing my first rig? For an example, I realize both MK-V J Box center pole cable and GPI Pro HD center pole cable would not fit in any rigs that is less than 2' diameter. So I know now that if I want to upgrade electric components in future, I must get a sled that is larger than 2' diameter. That's one feature that I learned to consider, but I want to know if there is anything that is essential features in sleds if I am considering upgrading in future to minimize expenses in the future. Thank you teachers, and any criticism and advices are welcomed.
  5. Hello, How difficult/ what is the process for re-wiring a Master series sled to support HDSDI? Maybe even swap out the 4 pin HiROSE to be all 2 pin LEMOs and throw on another Aton plate to the front of the K section too. I plan on keeping this sled for a few years so upgrading it is not a option, just wanted to try and bring it up-to-date. It all seams like a challenge over my head, is there anyone to be recommended for this in the LA area? Trying to know what i am getting into before I make the first step. Thanks.
  6. So after a long wait I managed to get Tiffen to send over a few new pieces so that I could tool around with our Gen 1 flyer and make it a little more interesting -original top stage is backwards compatible with new CF extending post -new gimbal also works with original flyer arm -bypassed the "spar" at the bottom of the sled and instead have a 15mm rail system (thanks Tom Wills for supply the original basis for the upgrade on the old gen 1 post; I have changed it up in a lot of ways to accommodate the larger post) -yes that is a cute little J-Box at the bottom. Made from a standard aluminum project box. Prototype really, for 12v only. Don't think there's any reason to go 24v. -75ohm bnc at the top and bottom with hd-sdi run through the sled I designed the J-box with the idea in mind that I think it is more comforting to power things like Red setups by keeping the battery mounted to the camera. The power can be looped back through the sled from the top stage, and the breakouts at the bottom can accommodate accessories mounted to the 15mm rail system. Means less V-droop from extensive wiring. Means being able to exchange a ton of accessories from the top stage and putting them at the bottom instead (ex. going to be using a Hyperdeck 2 mounted to the bottom instead of up top). Fully adjustable, can have bottom rails as wide as you want via extensions for absurd levels of pan inertia. Any battery type easily swapped out. All 2 pin lemos, very easy to work with. You can mount anything you want to the bottom as well via those 15mm rails....example, I did a couple of 360 gopro steadicam shoots that requested there be no footprint below the cameras and the rails can be made to just a few inches and also provide mounting. Pretty neat stuff. Just a little project I had been working on this past week. It's been repair and upgrade season for me here. Next step is probably going to be figuring out a couple of circuit breaker points as well as creation of a j-box for the top stage. I've seen Brian Freesh's old implementation but I can't help but get the feeling that having a box so large and close to the gimbal must be troublesome.... Click the link for the rest of the photos. Rest of album
  7. I'm looking for a microwave transmitter upgrade module for the Preston HU1. Thanks, Christophe ivins, SOC C@ivinsC.Com
  8. As a special thank you to all of the CW-5HD users throughout the years, IDX is pleased to announce a special rebate program to help you upgrade to the CW-7! No trade-in of your CW-5HD system is required! Please take a look at the attached file for more info!!
  9. I was contacted by a fellow steadicam operator who was interested in buying my 24volt Tiffen batteries from my Ultra for his Master series broadcast rig. Has anybody any experience with upgrading a 12volt rig to 24volts? I don't know much about the Master series and would love to forward any advice about this to him. All input is appreciated. Thanks, Gerard Sava
  10. is there such a device where you can continue to keep your Rig powered when docked for an extended period of time, during lunch hour, coffee breaks, etc. so I could dock and plug my rig into a standard 12VDC power supply, and walk away for a bit without losing sync to my wireless transmitter, or not having to powering down the camera, or pull the battery out, etc. especially for single battery rigs... (i presume with the big rigs you can easily hot swap batteries since they use more than 1 battery.)
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