Moderators Louis Puli SOC Posted March 21, 2014 Moderators Report Share Posted March 21, 2014 Hi Zoltan I upgraded the b&c connector at the top of the rig as well. It is now a solid HD picture all the time . I did consider just replacing the plug but I was advised by my electronics person to just cut off the plug and start again .I am very glad I did . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dennis Hingsberg Posted April 8, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 8, 2014 (edited) Today I performed a non-destructive modification to my Flyer LE so that I could run it with an HD monitor via SDI. It was pretty easy. I ran new wires down the inside of the center post to feed power and video signal directly from the camera to the monitor. This allowed the original 9-pin mini-din connector from the flyer to remain in tact. I really didn't want to hack it off incase later I want to sell the whole thing and not include my HD SDI monitor. I will post some pictures soon. Edited April 8, 2014 by Dennis Hingsberg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dennis Hingsberg Posted April 8, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 8, 2014 (edited) My modification, or "customization" to Flyer 24LE 1.) $25 in parts used: AC/DC adapter (I used this for the DC right angle plug and power cabling that will run through the post and power the new monitor), RG174u cable for SDI signal, DC inline jack (power from camera is delivered from hirose connector to DC plug), BNC RG174u connectors. Edited April 8, 2014 by Dennis Hingsberg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dennis Hingsberg Posted April 8, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 8, 2014 2.) Straightened out coat-hanger pushed from top of sled straight down through post. a Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dennis Hingsberg Posted April 8, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 8, 2014 3.) Electrical tape is spiraled around coat-hanger and both RG174u cable and DC power cable Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dennis Hingsberg Posted April 8, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 8, 2014 (edited) 4.) Coat-hanger pulled through with cables. Here you see the cables with new connectors that will be used to hook up to the HD monitor I am using (ikan D7W in this case) but later I can cut off the DC plug and solder on a 4-pin XLR connector for Marshal High Bright once I get one. Edited April 8, 2014 by Dennis Hingsberg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Members James Puli Posted April 8, 2014 Premium Members Report Share Posted April 8, 2014 I dont think I understand what your using the ac/dc adapter for!The way you have written it, seems like your sending power from the camera to the monitor.Dont get why you would power the monitor from the camera when you have a battery or 2 on the base of the rig you can power the monitor and the camera from. You'd be better off keeping the camera power outputs for other camera accessories you may need to add down the line (remote focus, hd tx, cinetape, etc)I'm also assuming you've left enough spare cable to extend the post properly! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dennis Hingsberg Posted April 8, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 8, 2014 (edited) I bought the AC/DC adapter only so I could cut the cable off from it and use it to run down the post with a nice DC plug already attached on one end. In my case it was cheaper to buy the AC adapter and hack it apart over buying a DC plug separately to solder it onto some wire. On the top of the sled I installed an inline DC plug because yes in my case, I'm using is the Sony F55 which has two power outputs on it which use a Hirose connector. I have a hirose cable to DC plug because normally the monitor is on my camera and takes DC plug for power, so in essence I've build a DC plug extension cord running straight through the post. I could not power the monitor from the batteries right next to it because there are no taps on the batteries or battery docking bracket. Again, I didn't want to modify anything from its original state plus I saw this as a fast modification because I needed to have it asap. Yep I extended the post to make sure I have enough slack inside. :) On a side note: This would have been a much easier non-destructive modification instead of the one I did if you have more time to source out the cable below. It will allow you to mate with the connector that regularly goes to the Flyer monitor and you can cut off part of the cable then and solder on a 4-pin XLR connector (or DC plug) for power, and then a BNC connector for the video signal over SDI. This allows you to simply use the existing connectors at top of the sled without having to run new wires through the post. I would have used this method if I had more time to convert my Flyer but I was on a deadline for a shoot. Edited April 8, 2014 by Dennis Hingsberg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Members Matthew L. Perez Posted June 29, 2014 Premium Members Report Share Posted June 29, 2014 Dennis, Do you happen to know where you purchased that cable from? I'm looking to do the same thing to my Flyer as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dennis Hingsberg Posted November 26, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 26, 2015 Sorry for delayed reply. Search online for 9 pin minidin extension cable, be sure to observe the pin configuration to select the right connector to interface to existing Steadicam multipin video/power cable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.