Julian_deniro@hotmail.com Posted September 16, 2009 Report Share Posted September 16, 2009 The Steadicam is balanced static and dynamic all the shots look great but when I do a 360 with a fish eye the video looks like is going up and down. I tried to walk in a perfect circle, made nice marks, tried different speeds and did not solve the prob. I walk straight and point the camera to my left side (90 degrees). Very puzzled. Anyone had the same prob, knows a fix? suggestions? Many thanks! It happens Only when I do a circle! About 6 feet radius I loosen the springs with no difference.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Members JobScholtze Posted September 16, 2009 Premium Members Report Share Posted September 16, 2009 The Steadicam is balanced static and dynamic all the shots look great but when I do a 360 with a fish eye the video looks like is going up and down. I tried to walk in a perfect circle, made nice marks, tried different speeds and did not solve the prob. I walk straight and point the camera to my left side (90 degrees). Very puzzled. Anyone had the same prob, knows a fix? suggestions? Many thanks! It happens Only when I do a circle! About 6 feet radius I loosen the springs with no difference.. A little more info? Rig? Camera? Setup? Droptime? etc Best Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Julian_deniro@hotmail.com Posted September 16, 2009 Author Report Share Posted September 16, 2009 The Steadicam is balanced static and dynamic all the shots look great but when I do a 360 with a fish eye the video looks like is going up and down. I tried to walk in a perfect circle, made nice marks, tried different speeds and did not solve the prob. I walk straight and point the camera to my left side (90 degrees). Very puzzled. Anyone had the same prob, knows a fix? suggestions? Many thanks! It happens Only when I do a circle! About 6 feet radius I loosen the springs with no difference.. A little more info? Rig? Camera? Setup? Droptime? etc Best Thank you for asking: I have 2 HVX 200's Panasonics with a Century Optics Fisheye on each one: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/4588...makers_Kit.html http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/4297...apter_Lens.html One Hytron 140 to power them and one Dionic 90 for the monitor. I tried drop times from a little less than 1 sec to 3.8 secs I have the cameras in low mode in a system I designed to be really close to each other. Video of the problem: http://www.3dmovies.com/Free/Lau1/index.html After seeing this video I tried unsuccessfully to correct this prob. Any advice/suggestion is appreciated. I am new to this and I know there are lots of tricks and I have a long way ahead.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Julian_deniro@hotmail.com Posted September 16, 2009 Author Report Share Posted September 16, 2009 I forgot to mention that that because of the up n down jump I edited that video and put it in slow motion otherwise it'll be unacceptable. Not that now is ok. So this is 222% slower than the original. http://www.3dmovies.com/Free/Lau1/index.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Members Ken Nguyen Posted September 17, 2009 Premium Members Report Share Posted September 17, 2009 Hi Julian, What stabilizing system do you have? Based on your video, I think the problem was more about your operational skill than the mechanical of the system. If your camera plate is wobbling or some part of the system is loosely secured, the fish-eye lens will effectively hide most of those errors for you. Every steps showed because: - you didn't wear your vest right. - overloaded your arm. - over-controlled the sled (holding the sled too tight; one or both hands). - NO static balanced. - and.... a lot more! Cheers, Ken. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Members Gus Trivino Posted September 17, 2009 Premium Members Report Share Posted September 17, 2009 Hi julian I think use a Hytron 140 and a Dionic 90 is a lot of weight for a P2 camera. I feel more comfortable the balence using the gimbal near to top stage, and using 2 batteries you have to go down with the gimbal. On the video we can see your steps walking. Maybe you adjusted with more power of necessary the arm? Just my 2 cent. Best to all, Gus Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Julian_deniro@hotmail.com Posted September 17, 2009 Author Report Share Posted September 17, 2009 Hi Julian,What stabilizing system do you have? Based on your video, I think the problem was more about your operational skill than the mechanical of the system. If your camera plate is wobbling or some part of the system is loosely secured, the fish-eye lens will effectively hide most of those errors for you. Every steps showed because: - you didn't wear your vest right. - overloaded your arm. - over-controlled the sled (holding the sled too tight; one or both hands). - NO static balanced. - and.... a lot more! Cheers, Ken. Hello Ken, Thank u for your reply. I agree with u and I'm sure my operational "skills" need improvement ;-). I wish I could find any workshop here in Boca Raton area Florida or even pay someone to teach me as I need it Fast. I'll go through every step that you mentioned and report back in few days. I have two stabilization system, one is a steadicam Merlin (for 1 camera) : http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/4933...ing_System.html I use this for monoscopic shots and the other one is a Glidecam v-25: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/4275...nton_Bauer.html I use this for stereoscopic 2 HVX200 shots The arm supports 25lbs so if I have 22lbs on it and the arm (both parts) is straight is it overloaded? It's pure magic when it's flow less! Cheers, Julian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Julian_deniro@hotmail.com Posted September 17, 2009 Author Report Share Posted September 17, 2009 Hi julian I think use a Hytron 140 and a Dionic 90 is a lot of weight for a P2 camera. I feel more comfortable the balence using the gimbal near to top stage, and using 2 batteries you have to go down with the gimbal. On the video we can see your steps walking. Maybe you adjusted with more power of necessary the arm? Just my 2 cent. Best to all, Gus Hi Gus, I'll try to use the stock HVX batteries and a small battery for the monitor and report the results to you. >>I feel more comfortable the balence using the gimbal near to top stage, and using 2 batteries you have to go down with the gimbal. I don't understand that. The batteries need to be on top of the gimbal because it's a low mode shot. Which brings another very interesting point for me to ask all: How you manage the monitor position in a low mode shot? If u leave it high then you can't look where u going.. if u remount it low next to the cameras (IF u find space) how u compensate the weight on top? Best to all, Very nice Forum! Julian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
George Grammatikos Posted September 18, 2009 Report Share Posted September 18, 2009 Hi Julian this kind of cameras have an optical or image stabilizer (something like that )did you turn it off? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Christian Dietrich Posted September 18, 2009 Report Share Posted September 18, 2009 (edited) Hi Gus, I'll try to use the stock HVX batteries and a small battery for the monitor and report the results to you. >>I feel more comfortable the balence using the gimbal near to top stage, and using 2 batteries you have to go down with the gimbal. I don't understand that. The batteries need to be on top of the gimbal because it's a low mode shot. Which brings another very interesting point for me to ask all: How you manage the monitor position in a low mode shot? If u leave it high then you can't look where u going.. if u remount it low next to the cameras (IF u find space) how u compensate the weight on top? Best to all, Very nice Forum! Julian Hallo Julian, Yes, at the HVX the "OIS" must be turnnd off. And for your low mode problem only some examples: get one of your batteries to the other side of the post (if it is possible with your rig) or get one of the batteries directly on the monitor or get some extraweigth on your monitor or.... but these are the basics how setting up your rig and how it works ;) After you did a workshop you will never have such a problem again. Greetings, Chris Edited September 18, 2009 by Christian Dietrich Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Julian_deniro@hotmail.com Posted September 19, 2009 Author Report Share Posted September 19, 2009 Hi George and Chris, Thank u for the advice. Yes of course I have the OIS always off. Chris I tried that, I moved the Hytron 140 from side to side (180 degrees) but did not solved the problem. It made a difference in the balance of course but the up/down effect in 360's exists. I'm almost happy with all the rest but the 360 is important. After that I noticed that many many videos have this Kangaroo effect so it's not only me. Cheers, Julian Hallo Julian, Yes, at the HVX the "OIS" must be turnnd off. And for your low mode problem only some examples: get one of your batteries to the other side of the post (if it is possible with your rig) or get one of the batteries directly on the monitor or get some extraweigth on your monitor or.... but these are the basics how setting up your rig and how it works ;) After you did a workshop you will never have such a problem again. Greetings, Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Members Jerry Holway Posted September 19, 2009 Premium Members Report Share Posted September 19, 2009 Julian- One of the problems of not taking a workshop is not being exactly clear about how the gear and the operator work together. Then, when you have a problem, it takes a long time to sort it out, and even then you do not have a large set of practical exercises at hand to teach you how to operate better. Unfortunate. Circling, for instance, requires perfect static balance for really precise work - the static balance must hold the frame. It seems to me from your description (admittedly at some remove) that it's just one of those skills you must learn - dampening the action of the springs in the arm. It's possible the arm has some issues, but unlikely. Different arms require slightly different techniques (as do different rigs), but the specific technique can be put into muscle memory fairly quickly once the basic skill has been learned. Another thing Garrett learned from The Shining (so many things one learns at the workshops!...) is that when using wide lenses, it's critical to keep the lens absolutely level for and aft as well as to the horizon. As everyone says, take a workshop. Until you can, read the book and get the EFP DVD, and take full shot videos of yourself operating. Jerry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Julian_deniro@hotmail.com Posted September 25, 2009 Author Report Share Posted September 25, 2009 Hello Jerry, Chris, George, Gus, Ken and Job, Thank you for your valuable advice. I'll follow it and report back to you in the near future. Julian DeNiro, Steadicam in learning ;-) 3dmovies.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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