Premium Members Matteo Quagliano Posted January 11, 2010 Premium Members Report Share Posted January 11, 2010 Hi fellow ops, Do you think is a good idea having something like this at my plate, doubling the power and the mass (giving a good amount of weight to the monitor side to balance)? My concern is not burning anything but having enough power for tx-rx, FF downconverter and camera (I'm on a RED shoot soon and I might look for the power cable- 4 pin lemo to RED power in-) http://www.switronix.com/product_details.p...info&id=189 Thanks for helping maqu Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Members Alfeo Dixon SOC Posted January 11, 2010 Premium Members Report Share Posted January 11, 2010 Matteo, I was also looking at adding a third batt into my config for a few reasons and had considered the Sitronix HotSwap plate. The problems are that it will add twice the weight and extends further away from the original battery which will also affect your panning inertia. Problems specific to your Archer is that your monitor is in a fixed position, so you will not be able to counter balance using the monitor. I would suggest finding this mod by Hofmann and to my understanding Erik Lars has one. From the looks of it, it will give you 24V capabilities also while keeping the extra weight closer to the center. -Alfeo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Members Matteo Quagliano Posted January 11, 2010 Author Premium Members Report Share Posted January 11, 2010 Hi Alfeo, thanks for the help... I'll check them too for sure (already contacted Lars) but from a powering point of view, do you see any problem in doing this? Would it burn something? maqu Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Members Alfeo Dixon SOC Posted January 11, 2010 Premium Members Report Share Posted January 11, 2010 but from a powering point of view, do you see any problem in doing this? Would it burn something? I played hooky during my electrical engineering class! Ask Tiffen or the Hofmann people... I would hate to be the cause of you smoking some gear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Members Matteo Quagliano Posted January 11, 2010 Author Premium Members Report Share Posted January 11, 2010 I played hooky during my electrical engineering class! ... me too! That is the problem. :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vinny Dunwe Posted January 12, 2010 Report Share Posted January 12, 2010 I played hooky during my electrical engineering class! ... me too! That is the problem. :) Hey Everyone, Vinny from Switronix here. I read your postings in regards to our product and your powering concerns. If you have any questions or concerns please email me and I will discuss it with my technicians...who did not play hooky haha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Members Peter Hoare Posted January 14, 2010 Premium Members Report Share Posted January 14, 2010 Hi Matteo, I am able to put a Lemo output on your plate if you need it, however you will need to work out where this will plug into. You can take the plate off the archer and add a connector in, but as I found out last time I did this, there is very little space under the plate for the connector to sit. The plate I have here for you has a P tap on it, so I would suggest we work out a way of plugging power into your rig with a P tap on the other end to plug into the plate. Maybe you can change the plate out on your Archer for a plate with a P tap, wire it in, and you can parallel the two batteries together with a cable. The plate will be done asap, all we gotta do is anodise it. Pete. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Members Alfeo Dixon SOC Posted January 14, 2010 Premium Members Report Share Posted January 14, 2010 Hey Everyone, Vinny from Switronix here. I read your postings in regards to our product and your powering concerns. If you have any questions or concerns please email me and I will discuss it with my technicians. Hey Vinny and welcome to the forums, I was really referring to Matteo adding 24V into the Archer itself by putting the second battery into series, something I'm currently dealing with Steadicam now for my Ultra2 rig. Peter, I like the idea of using the AB P-Tap to use a second battery in parallel, that should work for his 12V needs. It seams he would also need a DC-DC converter and a lot of rewiring to make his Archer 24V capable... I don't know Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Members Matteo Quagliano Posted January 14, 2010 Author Premium Members Report Share Posted January 14, 2010 Hi Vinny, I'll see what I'll do in the end but probably go with Pete' plate, thanks for your attention and fast reply, for any future need I'll contact you directly. Hi Alfeo and Pete, so you think it's possible to parallel 2 batts via Ptap, my Archer incredibly has a Ptap port on its bottom plate, this way with a male Ptap cable on both side I can plug the batts together and have them paralleled still with an output that doesn't burn anything? My idea was to open the Archer plate and plug the cable directly there at the connectors, giving them 2 batt feed instead of one. I have already asked about but there's no agreement on that issue. Anyway Pete... as fast as you can because a part power I need a quick fix for balancing with heavy camera, 24v is not needed right away but can be a good upgrade with Lars mod, more jobs will call for that but now it's hard. ciao maqu Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Members Alfeo Dixon SOC Posted January 14, 2010 Premium Members Report Share Posted January 14, 2010 my Archer incredibly has a Ptap port on its bottom plate Are you running an Archer or Archer 2? You make it sound as if you already have a dual battery config on the rig such as the Archer 2. Or did you mean 'it has a Ptap port on the bottom of the plate.' Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Members Matteo Quagliano Posted January 15, 2010 Author Premium Members Report Share Posted January 15, 2010 Archer1 with tilting top stage (VERY COOL)... and I mean as you said: it has a Ptap port on the bottom of the plate and if I manage here's a pic of what I mean... Thanks Alfeo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Members Markus Kuballa Posted January 15, 2010 Premium Members Report Share Posted January 15, 2010 Hi Alfeo! Did you find a solution for the Ultra2 to be able to hotswap? I'm right now looking around for a suitable solution. Best Markus Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobinThwaites Posted January 15, 2010 Report Share Posted January 15, 2010 Hi Markus You can set the Ultra 2 to run both batteries in parallel rather than series for high drain applications. Robin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Members Alfeo Dixon SOC Posted January 15, 2010 Premium Members Report Share Posted January 15, 2010 Did you find a solution for the Ultra2 to be able to hotswap? You can set the Ultra 2 to run both batteries in parallel rather than series for high drain applications. What Robin said... but yes, I'm also combining the FracoliZer with an IDX P-VS2 (Mod by Terry West... Ask for the Alfie Mod) for a 3rd battery in Parallel 12V mode... but beware, your batteries have to be in Parallel Mode (page 23 top of left column)! I just leave my rig in this config for most of the time. -Alfeo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Members Markus Kuballa Posted January 15, 2010 Premium Members Report Share Posted January 15, 2010 Thanks Robin and Alfeo! That solution should pretty much fix my "Red-Problem" :D Best Markus Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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