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Ultra2


Alfeo Dixon SOC

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Hi Alfeo!

 

Did you find a solution for the Ultra2 to be able to hotswap? I'm right now looking around for a suitable solution.

You should be fine as long as you connect Batt A's +12V to Batt B's +12V and Batt A's -12V to -12V of Batt B. This puts them in parallel which will double your Amps.

Except by doing it that way you will also try to charge the battery that has a lower voltage.

I think Eric is referring to the magic diode to prevent reverse voltage.

Markus,

 

Just got the good/official news from Robert Orf over at Tiffen. After extensive testing, inserting a 3rd battery in 24V Parallel mode via the Ultra2's base 3pin accessory power port (Pin 2), by placing a diode in series on the plus side (+12v) will protect the battery from receiving a charge and will not affect the DC-DC converter.

 

The diode tested by Tiffen is DIGI-KEY part #90SQ030-ND

 

Thank you to Robert Orf and his team at Tiffen/Steadicam

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Hmmmmm....... not sure if this applies or helps but:

 

Half of my batteries are PowerCubes, the other half are IDX stackable E10's. I just stack an extra battery on one side and run a single PowerCube on the other side of the battery mount. It gives me extra weight the two stacked batteries act like one big 12v. Robert Orf said no problem with that configuration on the custom power mods they did to my C24.

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Alfeo,

 

Any idea how this might work with original 24v Ultra1 Sled. Would it be any benefit or should I just power the monitor separately from the Fracolizer w/ IDX like I have it setup?

 

Just wondering.

 

Please post in new thread if appropriate.

 

Thanks!

 

-James

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Sorry James, can't answer that question. But how would you input into the system on the Ultra1? If memory serves me best, the Ultra1 doesn't have the Aux Power connector. I guess it would all depend on where you input the 3rd Batt and which side of the DC/DC converter its introduced into the system.

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Sorry James, can't answer that question. But how would you input into the system on the Ultra1? If memory serves me best, the Ultra1 doesn't have the Aux Power connector. I guess it would all depend on where you input the 3rd Batt and which side of the DC/DC converter its introduced into the system.

 

I have an Aux Power connector on the side of the sled.

I have powered the Gyros from this connector.

Not sure if it can "also be used as a power input connector."

 

I guess I also could go directly to the Molex connector before the power goes into the sled.

Not sure what that would do.

 

Anyway like I said just wondering....

 

Thanks Again.

 

James

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James-

 

The original Ultra 1 uses a single 24 volt battery (nominally 28.8 volts, a bit higher hot off the charger) and a DC-DC converter to make 13-14 volts all the time (I can't remember the exact voltage; but you could measure it).

 

You can add a 2nd battery (Lithium Ion) for additional "12 volt" power via your aux plug (ground and +12), and I don't think you even need any diode (UNLIKE THE U2 or an Ultra 1 with the PowerCube conversion kit)

 

I'm going to double check this with the factory...

 

Jerry

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Hi!. Good question about 3th batt.

I´m Ultra2 owner.

I have this configurations.May be I was wrong, or...

With medium weight cameras(12v. powered) I use 2 batt in 12volts only for monitor/focus/video wireless. Camera has its own batt.

Medium weight camera+gyros (12v. powered), I use switch to 24volts, who gives 12+12 or 24 volts. Monitor with 24v cable and gyros powered with 12v cable.

Cameras who needs 24 volts. I use 24 volts in all sistem.

If I need gyros, power is suplied by a 3th independent batt placed in the down side end of the sled. From batt to Ac/Dc converter. Part made by Fracol is perfect to do it. I´ve one similary made by Cartoni.

With REDONE, I use power cable from sled to camera, two batts in 12+12v mode.

If you´ve other idea...It will be welcome...

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James-

 

The original Ultra 1 uses a single 24 volt battery (nominally 28.8 volts, a bit higher hot off the charger) and a DC-DC converter to make 13-14 volts all the time (I can't remember the exact voltage; but you could measure it).

 

You can add a 2nd battery (Lithium Ion) for additional "12 volt" power via your aux plug (ground and +12), and I don't think you even need any diode (UNLIKE THE U2 or an Ultra 1 with the PowerCube conversion kit)

 

I'm going to double check this with the factory...

 

Jerry

Before anybody follows this advice, the factory needs to check if the DC-DC converter has issues with the 2nd battery - it might - so don't try this yet.

 

Jerry

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If you notice that the rigs off switch will not work now, its acutally in the neutral off position. But to anticipate that, I used the IDX plate with a built in on/off switch for controlling an OB light (ENG style) and had it wired up to enable or disable power to the sled but always leaving the P-Tap hot.

post-284-1267192233_thumb.jpg

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James-

 

The original Ultra 1 uses a single 24 volt battery (nominally 28.8 volts, a bit higher hot off the charger) and a DC-DC converter to make 13-14 volts all the time (I can't remember the exact voltage; but you could measure it).

 

You can add a 2nd battery (Lithium Ion) for additional "12 volt" power via your aux plug (ground and +12), and I don't think you even need any diode (UNLIKE THE U2 or an Ultra 1 with the PowerCube conversion kit)

 

I'm going to double check this with the factory...

 

Jerry

Before anybody follows this advice, the factory needs to check if the DC-DC converter has issues with the 2nd battery - it might - so don't try this yet.

 

Jerry

 

Hi Jerry,

 

I was just wondering if the factory got a chance to test this yet.

I have the Ultra 1 with Powercube Conversion kit, do I need to add a diode?

 

Thanks!

 

James

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