HDMI converter for Canon 5DmII

[Charles Papert]

On the converter boxes: I've been using the Blackmagics for the past year and they get the job done. I had heard variable things about the AJA not re-locking the 5D signal so I bypassed them myself. The Blackmagics however are not exceptionally rugged and there are quite a few failures noted. One of the common ones is that when the camera is in record mode, a black band appears through the center of the image. One of my two units does this and I've seen it elsewhere. Note that they will need voltage regulation down to 12.5 volts maximum if powered from a D-tap or from the rig; an inexpensive part can be bought at Radio Shack or equivalent and wired into the cable or inside the box. I had one of our fellow ops who is an electronics whiz spec me a switching regulator inside the box which works beautifully (also changed out the power connector for the 6 pin Hirose a la the Modulus). Don't write and ask who it is because I don't think he wants to be in the Blackmagic modifying business! The AJA also needs regulating as it is a 5v box. I am aware of a new box that should solve a lot of the issues available soon, can't talk about it yet.

 

As far as the benefits from HD vs SD image; true enough that we can operate as well with an SD image. When shooting with these cameras I like to deliver an HD image (from the 1D and 7D) off the rig either via cable or HD transmitter, if for no other reason than the focus puller can see proper sharps at a remote monitor. On my last job we used the Boxx system and the assistant had a 7" Marshall with the Boxx receiver along with the Preston. In the past we've done it on the Camwave in multicast mode so the director can see an HD image as well. The 5D is a special nightmare because of the resolution shift which also tends to force an aspect ratio change on monitors as well. Thankfully most of my jobs are on the 1D, since that's the camera I own, so I don't have to wrestle the 5D issues as often.

 

p.s. recent music video I shot with two 1D's and 5D--Cedric Martin on Steadicam:

[Alfeo Dixon SOC]

p.s. recent music video I shot with two 1D's and 5D--Cedric Martin on Steadicam:

Nice job Charles... what about HDMI cables? have you found a flexible mini with an angle so its not sticking out the side so far?

[Alfeo Dixon SOC]

Note that they will need voltage regulation down to 12.5 volts maximum if powered from a D-tap or from the rig; an inexpensive part can be bought at Radio Shack or equivalent and wired into the cable or inside the box. I had one of our fellow ops who is an electronics whiz spec me a switching regulator inside the box which works beautifully (also changed out the power connector for the 6 pin Hirose a la the Modulus).

You got part numbers for us or just spill the name

[Charles Papert]

Note that they will need voltage regulation down to 12.5 volts maximum if powered from a D-tap or from the rig; an inexpensive part can be bought at Radio Shack or equivalent and wired into the cable or inside the box. I had one of our fellow ops who is an electronics whiz spec me a switching regulator inside the box which works beautifully (also changed out the power connector for the 6 pin Hirose a la the Modulus).

You got part numbers for us or just spill the name

 

Here's the RS part:

http://www.radioshack.com/search/index.jsp?kwCatId=&kw=12v%20regulator&origkw=12v%20regulator&sr=1

 

It's cheap and easy to splice in-line, but it gets very hot. A switching regulator is a much better way to go. If you do go this route, better to mount into a tiny inline project box than shrinkwrapped into the cable.

 

Regarding HDMI cables, haven't yet seen a worthwhile inexpensive right angle mini cable at the lengths I need. One has to treat these cables as expendables as they don't last long. My 1D has an included protector on the camera end that works well, and my Blackmagic box mounts on a custom plate that protects the full-size HDMI end so I don't often have boo-boo's.

[Tom Daigon]

The Blackmagics however are not exceptionally rugged and there are quite a few failures noted. One of the common ones is that when the camera is in record mode, a black band appears through the center of the image. One of my two units does this and I've seen it elsewhere. Note that they will need voltage regulation down to 12.5 volts maximum if powered from a D-tap or from the rig; an inexpensive part can be bought at Radio Shack or equivalent and wired into the cable or inside the box.

 

Charles, here is an Abel Cine Tech blog that mentions the video issues you alluded to as being related to a recent firmware update by BM (1.5). They are aware of the issues and suggest a solution .

 

http://blog.abelcine.com/2010/05/26/blackmagic-design-hdmi-to-sdi-downgrade/

Edited July 31, 2010 by Tom Daigon

[Eric Schmiedl]

 

Here's the RS part:

http://www.radioshack.com/search/index.jsp?kwCatId=&kw=12v%20regulator&origkw=12v%20regulator&sr=1

 

It's cheap and easy to splice in-line, but it gets very hot. A switching regulator is a much better way to go. If you do go this route, better to mount into a tiny inline project box than shrinkwrapped into the cable.

 

Regarding HDMI cables, haven't yet seen a worthwhile inexpensive right angle mini cable at the lengths I need. One has to treat these cables as expendables as they don't last long. My 1D has an included protector on the camera end that works well, and my Blackmagic box mounts on a custom plate that protects the full-size HDMI end so I don't often have boo-boo's.

 

 

That 7812 is designed to be run attached to a heatsink (a big chunk of aluminum with fins on it to dissipate heat quickly) if you're using it with a significant amount of current or trying to cut the voltage down by much at all. It's kind of like using the brakes on a car; when you hit the brakes, they get hot if you're not careful. A switching regulator is like a hybrid car that charges the battery instead of using the brakes.