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Dynamic balance with Canon M-II 5D


Amando Crespo

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Never met a Flyer or Flyer LE I couldn't get into dynamic balance. We love seeing the monitor without leaning over and you can do so even if the monitor is all the way down. I'm not an advocate of tilting the monitor arm up. Rather, lower it until it hits the "stop" built into the monitor arm assembly.

 

Then, using only the fore/aft on the camera stage and the ability to gently pivot the battery, you can get the rig into dynamic balance.

 

Not only does tilting the monitor arm up from the stop point minimize it's contribution to inertial in the panning axis, it raises the mass in the front drastically, therefore making the battery "heavier" by comparison.

 

Peter Abraham

Dir. of Technical Services, Steadicam

pabraham@tiffen.com

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To second Peter's post, I followed his advice to flatten out the monitor arm and DB instantly became easier. I also tend to "table" the monitor (laying it nearly flat). With a roughly 8 pound HVX200 up top, my Hytron 50 is tilted out just shy of vertical.

 

In my experience, the key is "a little goes a long way" when it comes to adjusting the battery paddle. I've replaced the hex bolt with a Kipp handle bolt (Tiffen can sell you one). This allows me to quickly loosen the battery, nudge it, retighten and recheck. I've also replaced the locking knob on the top stage with a Kipp handle, to make it quicker to adjust the fore and aft.

post-8221-0-38940300-1292210811_thumb.jpg

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To second Peter's post, I followed his advice to flatten out the monitor arm and DB instantly became easier. I also tend to "table" the monitor (laying it nearly flat). With a roughly 8 pound HVX200 up top, my Hytron 50 is tilted out just shy of vertical.

 

In my experience, the key is "a little goes a long way" when it comes to adjusting the battery paddle. I've replaced the hex bolt with a Kipp handle bolt (Tiffen can sell you one). This allows me to quickly loosen the battery, nudge it, retighten and recheck. I've also replaced the locking knob on the top stage with a Kipp handle, to make it quicker to adjust the fore and aft.

I know this is late, but i have the5D/7D with the battery grip attached on both cameras. The lens that I use are the CANON 14mm 2.8 rectilinear and the 24mm 1.4 L series. I can NEVER achieve the dynamic balance. Is there something that I may need to add or take away? Please advise.

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Can you repost this video please?

 

I´ll try.

I have the STEADICAM PILOT with a 5D and battery grip attached. I cannot for the life of me come CLOSE to achieving DYNAMIC BALANCE. There is someone on youtube that has done it (

), but it looks like they have adding something to it.
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I know this is late, but i have the5D/7D with the battery grip attached on both cameras. The lens that I use are the CANON 14mm 2.8 rectilinear and the 24mm 1.4 L series. I can NEVER achieve the dynamic balance. Is there something that I may need to add or take away? Please advise.

 

Are you mounting the camera so that its CG is just slightly behind the centerpost (about a 1/2 inch)? That's generally a good place to start in the DB process.

 

In general (not specifically related to DB), you may want to add a weight plate (homemade or from Janice Arthur here on the forum) to bring your camera payload into the 10-12 pound range. More mass settles the rig down a bit.

 

Again, the battery paddle adjustment is SLIGHT...a degree or two makes a significant difference, and it's easy to overshoot the adjustment.

 

 

Hope this helps!

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I know this is late, but i have the5D/7D with the battery grip attached on both cameras. The lens that I use are the CANON 14mm 2.8 rectilinear and the 24mm 1.4 L series. I can NEVER achieve the dynamic balance. Is there something that I may need to add or take away? Please advise.

 

Are you mounting the camera so that its CG is just slightly behind the centerpost (about a 1/2 inch)? That's generally a good place to start in the DB process.

 

In general (not specifically related to DB), you may want to add a weight plate (homemade or from Janice Arthur here on the forum) to bring your camera payload into the 10-12 pound range. More mass settles the rig down a bit.

 

Again, the battery paddle adjustment is SLIGHT...a degree or two makes a significant difference, and it's easy to overshoot the adjustment.

 

 

Hope this helps!

Thank you Mark. Guess I need to contact Janice Arthur and see if I can get one. I'm not the most mechanically inclined individual, but I believe I did follow the steps when trying to mount the camera so that the CG is slightly behind the center post, but I will try that again. I also probably need to add more weight to the camera to get it close to the 10lb range. I have a RedRock Rig configured to the Cinema HDSLR Rig, but it weighs over 10lbs. Even when I stripped it down a little it still came in at 11.08lbs. I know they say it should be 10lbs or less, but I don't know if that extra weight will put too much stress on it.

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Which rig do you have? I assumed a Flyer...

 

The "sweet spot" for weight obviously varies by rig. 12 pounds should be fine for the Flyer or FLyer LE, well within spec. No need to make it lighter, unless you are over your rig's maximum. You want to be in the upper ranges of payload, but not bumping up against the limits, for best handling. Somewhat subjective though...

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It's important to understand that moving the battery CG by tilting it will move the CG forward and also raise it. When adjusting for dynamic balance, moving the battery strictly fore and aft helps it be less complicated. Not up and down at the same time.

 

(I know Mark understands this, so this is just in case you don't know)

 

Also, a camera is a camera. 5d, GoPro, RED, Alexa, 435. It's all just weight. Think of it as balancing CGs.

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