Premium Members Sydney Seeber Posted October 14, 2010 Premium Members Report Share Posted October 14, 2010 The site seems to be updating in odd ways today... Is there no delete button? cause that would be rad if there was, then I could delete this post instead of changing its text... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phillip todd Posted October 16, 2010 Report Share Posted October 16, 2010 Please read the 'monitors' section, thee is plenty of information about monitors, especially in the 'monitor shootout' topic.  You will not find a cheap solution, cheapest suitable monitors are close to 4000 dollars, others - even more.  Hi,  I have a new old stock Marrell green screen on ebay.com for 2000 USD. I am in Europe, too.  http://cgi.ebay.com/Marell-LBM-5FF-Green-Screen-Steadicam-Glidecam-Monitor-/280575569018?pt=Film_Cameras&hash=item41539b6c7a  Feel free to ask me any questions if interested.. Cheers,  Phillip Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diggy Breiling Posted October 19, 2010 Report Share Posted October 19, 2010 Last week I received my SmallHD DP6 and while I am very happy with it at first I was not happy about the level of reflection and glare. Â I added a HEA2000k-matte anti-reflection film to it and now it is much better. I took the display outside and could see it well on a sunny day. I would be able to modify this or other displays or provide the film if you want to do it yourself (I would do a better job as I would do it in a clean room and have experience.) I'm in Orange County if your interested. Â I recently sold my company Flat Panel Display Solutions which did glare reduction and ruggedization for marine, military, and aerospace so making monitors look good is what I know. Feel free to google HEA2000 and my former company will come up as FPDSolutions.com, If you enter it directly it will go to the company that purchased me and not the HEA2000 link. I'd be happy to barter mods on display for some pro guidance in my Steadicam progression. Â Â Kind Regards, Diggy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diggy Breiling Posted October 19, 2010 Report Share Posted October 19, 2010 True, not a picnic when the sun is at just the right (wrong) angle. Naturally, one shouldn't expect high end features or performance. This ain't that. When I get a chance I'll meter the Lilliput against my 500 nit Flyer monitor.  I'm curious about their transflective version, given the strong showing of transflectives in the monitor shootout. May just pick one up to play with.  The 668GL is 450 nits for $200. For another $200 Lilliput will add a transflective film.   450 Nits sucks in direct sun.... Just saying  Just skimming this thread a little more. To clarify this issue.  1. Nits don't matter (much), Contrast Ratio is what matters - Contrast is what we humans see. Specifically we are concerned with High Ambient Contrast Ratio, what we see on our monitors in bright (sunlight) environments. Whatever the light output from your screen is, it is competing with the light reflected off of the front surface. In slightly simplified terms, in a very bright environment reducing the reflection by 50% will have the same effect on contract ratio as doubling the brightness. The front polarizer on the LCD screens will have a 4% reflection unless they already have a AR coating. It is possible drop this 4% reflection down to about .4%, a dramatic improvement (and no more power draw or heat buildup)   Sunlight Level (SL) = 10,000 Display White (DW)= 450 Display Black(DB) = 1 Reflection ( R)= 4%  DW / DB = CR 450 / 1 = 449  (DW + ( R * SL )) / (DB + ( R * SL )) = HACR ( 450 + ( .04 * 10,000 )) / ( 1 + ( .04 * 10,000 )) = 2.12 HACR ( "Sucks")  Now change the front surface reflection to 0.4%  (DW + ( R * SL )) / (DB + ( R * SL )) = HACR ( 450 + ( .004 * 10,000 )) / ( 1 + ( .004 * 10,000 )) = 12 HACR ( Acceptable )  Both the 2.12 Contrast Ratio and the 12 Contrast Ratio are at 450 nits. To get the same effect on HACR with Nits you would have to be over 4000 nits.   2. There are true transflective display, these are a reasonable choice for sunlight applications. Adding a "Transflective Film" is not the same as a transflective display, the term transflective film is actually misleading, I suspect they are adding a DBEF film and/or a ESR film. (Google Vikuiti DBEF and ESR for more information).   3. Sun Angle - We have two primary types of reflection, 1. Specular - this is mirror like, you see a image. 2. Diffuse - This is like a white wall, very reflective but no image. We can trade specular and diffuse reflection, by increasing one we reduce the other. By having a matte front surface the diffuse will increase and the specular will decrease, by having a glossy front surface the specular will increase and the diffuse will decrease. There are trade off here and no best solutions, which flavor you like depends on you and your environment and what looks best under the sun may not be what looks best on a brightly lit set with multiple lights. For the sun I would suggest glossy (with Anti-Reflection) and for the studio set I would suggest glossy (with Anti-Reflection).   There are many more nuances to reflection, brightness, and contrast that effect how a display looks when in use, but these are some of the basics. The most important concept is to lower your reflection for the greatest gain.  Kind Regards, Diggy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Members Eric Fletcher S.O.C. Posted October 19, 2010 Premium Members Report Share Posted October 19, 2010 DW / DB = CR 450 / 1 = 449 Â Â Ummmmm 450/1 is 450 Just saying Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diggy Breiling Posted October 19, 2010 Report Share Posted October 19, 2010 DW / DB = CR 450 / 1 = 449   Ummmmm 450/1 is 450 Just saying   Ahh $%^* my formula was wrong. Actually the formula for Contrast Ratio is:  (DW - DB) / DB = CR  (450 - 1 ) / 1 = 449 CR  I was simplifying the math (not a big difference) but still did the full equation in my head. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam Morgan Moore Posted October 30, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 30, 2010 OK  So I have my Transvision  All looks good, nice neat size, endless power from my Vlock etc  Now it has a mount point that is not centered  I am seeking dynamic balance  My thoughts go like this  1) off-centre monitor does not present a problem because you can DB a camera with all sorts of sh1t (remote focus etc) hanging off it  2) no thats wrong, because the camera and rubbish all moves on the stage you can DB a 'messy camera' but stuff not on the stage must be balanced (LR) when static to get DB  I must therefore get my sled (and monitor) hanging vertical (L-R) to get DB  Is this correct!!!!!!!!  I could do this be creating a dogleg for the monitor or adding a small mass offset to the light side  While both constructions are farily elementary for me I dont want to waste time due to screwy thinking  Further once this is constructed and my sled hangs LR horizontal if I move the bottom beam of the pilot sled foreaft until it hangs fore aft horizontal my rig will be in DB when the camera is added ?  ps Im not after a 100 spin perfection just a good rig to impove my newb moves on  S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam Morgan Moore Posted December 19, 2010 Author Report Share Posted December 19, 2010 An update  Got my rig sort of built last night, Hocus focus, Transvideo monitor, Vlock power 5dmk2nikkor glass  Its got a kind of big rig spec with long power, focus, decent monitor, in a micro package  As for the transvideo monitor, its got good vision, some other issues that a may expand on in time  build 1.0 - needs a big clean up  Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Members Charles Papert Posted December 19, 2010 Premium Members Report Share Posted December 19, 2010 Nice to finally see remote focus happening in a smaller DSLR setup. Â Sam, you may have already experienced the issue of image shift when the motor is pushing against the lens--that darn EOS mount is not made for any kind of mechanical pressure against the lens in a motion environment. One thing that helps a little is the Really Right Stuff bracket that gives an extra point of contact to keep the camera from rotating on the quick release plate, since there is no keyway or locator pin on those camera bodies. It's still an issue and one I'm about to address on my system. Â Other than cleaning up the cables (time to strip off the extra RCA leads from your video cable!), you might also want to collapse the post all the way which will allow you to move the gimbal up a little bit. The rig would fly that much better with the gimbal higher. If you are still has a way to go, some more weights at the top stage will be a boon. In addition, you could lose the ones under the monitor and drive the monitor forward to compensate--better viewing angle and you would be able to raise the gimbal that much more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam Morgan Moore Posted December 19, 2010 Author Report Share Posted December 19, 2010 (edited) Nice to finally see remote focus happening in a smaller DSLR setup.  Sam, you may have already experienced the issue of image shift when the motor is pushing against the lens--that darn EOS mount is not made for any kind of mechanical pressure against the lens in a motion environment. One thing that helps a little is the Really Right Stuff bracket that gives an extra point of contact to keep the camera from rotating on the quick release plate, since there is no keyway or locator pin on those camera bodies. It's still an issue and one I'm about to address on my system.  Other than cleaning up the cables (time to strip off the extra RCA leads from your video cable!), you might also want to collapse the post all the way which will allow you to move the gimbal up a little bit. The rig would fly that much better with the gimbal higher. If you are still has a way to go, some more weights at the top stage will be a boon. In addition, you could lose the ones under the monitor and drive the monitor forward to compensate--better viewing angle and you would be able to raise the gimbal that much more.  Indeed this is build 1.0 really just to test the electronics and basic theory !  The arm is nearly maxed out  I will shorten the post  For another £230 I can swap the 100w/hr vlock for a 70w/hr, that will save me some mass when I have the money (this is fast becoming and expensive pilot!)  and lose the bottom mass  Some of my home made components can be refined with a drill - trimming off more mass  the mission to be to lower the camera and/or add some more mass up top give more configuration options  On the rotational torque of the motor..  the nikkor is low torque and wonderful with end stops even clickless iris  most of my other nikkors are similar - mid age af primes, - hard stops and smooth travel  if you observe carefully there is a block behind the camera creating the RRS effect for $2 of materials - with a post for my swingaway viewfinder that I use operating HH  you may also observe the tape sticking out of the lens adapter reducing rotational movement of the lens   The lens is a PC - perscpective correction meaning I can trim headroom irrelevant of arm height (not in shot)  You may read my review of this lens here.. 28P v 24-105   S Edited December 19, 2010 by Sam Morgan Moore Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Members Sanjay Sami Posted December 19, 2010 Premium Members Report Share Posted December 19, 2010 Do you have a compass mounted on your sled in front of the electronics box ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam Morgan Moore Posted December 19, 2010 Author Report Share Posted December 19, 2010 (edited) Do you have a compass mounted on your sled in front of the electronics box ?  Yes - I thought might help me walk in a straight line or at least keep the lens pointing the right way :)  I am yet to be convinced of the value  its just an experiment  it does read when you are not tilting or panning and might help for example when doing a 90 turn down a corridor into a room and you want the room composed square - which is what I like  Sam 'going south' MM Edited December 19, 2010 by Sam Morgan Moore Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Members Daniel Stilling DFF Posted December 19, 2010 Premium Members Report Share Posted December 19, 2010 Do you have a compass mounted on your sled in front of the electronics box ?  Yes - I thought might help me walk in a straight line or at least keep the lens pointing the right way :)  I am yet to be convinced of the value  its just an experiment  it does read when you are not tilting or panning and might help for example when doing a 90 turn down a corridor into a room and you want the room composed square - which is what I like  Sam 'going south' MM  Honestly, if you spend all the precious time you have during a shot looking at a compass, you might miss details like a stand in the movie, or even the general framing itself. i for one am always scanning the edge of the frame, then the subject itself, and just then a glance at the level, just to confirm all is good... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Members Eric Fletcher S.O.C. Posted December 19, 2010 Premium Members Report Share Posted December 19, 2010 Â Â A compass? Really?? that is one of the least useful things I've seen on a steadicam Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Members Jens Piotrowski SOC Posted December 19, 2010 Premium Members Report Share Posted December 19, 2010   A compass? Really?? that is one of the least useful things I've seen on a steadicam   how about a coffee maker? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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