quick low mode with crt monitor

[robert weldoff]

hi all

 

i have a green crt monitor,

now i was wondering if there is a quick way to go to low mode with out flipping the monitor and rebalance

 

i.e. if u have a lcd on a yoke just tilt it but was wondering if anyone has any tricks?

(maybe attach mirror to ray shade or something)

 

thanks all

[Stefano Ben]

Hi! All depends on the side of the camera. If you fly with a camera in reverse mode or not. The best way it's to have a image flip/mirror mode built into your crt Monitor for do a quick low mode balance without flipping the Monitor or the camera body. But if you must to shooting a real low mode, and you can't flip the images in your monitor, you are forced to have the crt monitor in right mode (with the screen to the sky) or overturn the camera body leaving the monitor in it's original position. Anyway, extending the all center post, it's the key! Without a long post, it's hard to see clearly the images.

 

Steve

[robert weldoff]

HI Stefano

 

thanks for the reply!!

 

yes i do have image flip

 

kindest

[RonBaldwin]

I have always found it best to come up with a repeatable way of converting that I always use for low mode (ie lower fore/aft, approx post extention and monitor position) so you can just move everything into position very quickly and the balance is close. This is where a prep will save your arse with a 3 to 5 min conversion vs a 10 to 15 minute cluster-fack. I used to lower the monitor (tb6) so I wasn't looking up at the image and not seeing where I was walking/my marks. This was harder to accomplish for me when I went with the vz gimbal and now nearly impossible with lighter weight lcd's.

[William Demeritt]

Since I very rarely have to flip the camera over going to low-mode, I can usually swap into low mode in 90s or less. Here's how:

 

My setup:PRO2 monitor on Sacthler telescopic dual rod monitor arm. I operate normal, monitor about 60% extended on the arms.

 

Someone says "Next shot is low mode."

 

1. Attach F-bracket to gimbal arm (I keep it in my back pocket at all times).

2. Extend post to maximum (remember which notch I started at for going back).

3. Extend monitor full distance from post, tilt monitor up so screen is nearly-facing the post, but not flat to the post.

4. Unlock gimbal, slide it up an inch or two, just roughing it in.

5. Slide camera forward maybe 1/2" to 1".

6. Undock sled, flip it over on my arm, finish the camera fore/aft rough adjust. Trim the sled, and adjust the side-side.

7. Check drop time while still on the arm. Adjust gimbal position accordingly.

8. Final adjustments to trim and side-side static balance.

9. Dock.

10. ...

11. PROFIT!

 

First time I do this, it takes a bit longer than my asserted 90 seconds. However, the subsequent mode changes happen quicker once I've memorized the notch and gimbal positions.

 

Since most of my jobs are on RED, sometimes I just have the AC's flip the camera battery so I can balance while booting up. I usually finish just about the time Windows95 finishes loading.

[James Puli]

Well said Will!

 

I do essentially the same as Will, but if I'm in 2 battery mode on my Steadyrig base, instead of extending the post, I'll just chuck an extra battery on the base.

Ive found that gives me just enough if using a lighter camera. Otherwise, yeah ill pull the post out a bit!.

 

My monitor (Boland HD) is on an old school bracket (the DeRose scissor one from a 3a I think it is), so i take the monitor off, invert the rig and put it back on (with the bracket upside down) and it works a treat.