MASTER ARM UPGRADE...

[Tony Reyes]

Wow, thank you very much for that info. I needed the "Idiot's guide." I also just found in the Steadicam Operators Handbook (p.268) where they show how to do it. I'll try this tomorrow and let you guys know how it goes. This may be a huge lifesaver. I'm about to do a brutal job with a light camera. I was going to have to add tons of weight.

[Andrew Ansnick]

Wow, thank you very much for that info. I needed the "Idiot's guide." I also just found in the Steadicam Operators Handbook (p.268) where they show how to do it. I'll try this tomorrow and let you guys know how it goes. This may be a huge lifesaver. I'm about to do a brutal job with a light camera. I was going to have to add tons of weight.

 

No worries, that's what we're all here for.

[Tony Reyes]

This whole process has been pretty nerve racking. The springs would shift a millimeter counter clockwise or clockwise and I would correct. Those are nylon spacers and it is at .75" right now. Right now it seems like it holds a little less. I tried 30 lbs. but both sections of the arm weren't floating correcting. I'm going to add another 3/8th spacer. Does 1.5" to 2" of spacers sound like too much?

[Andrew Ansnick]

This whole process has been pretty nerve racking. The springs would shift a millimeter counter clockwise or clockwise and I would correct. Those are nylon spacers and it is at .75" right now. Right now it seems like it holds a little less. I tried 30 lbs. but both sections of the arm weren't floating correcting. I'm going to add another 3/8th spacer. Does 1.5" to 2" of spacers sound like too much?

 

 

This sounds about right. You should hold the spring though while you're tightening or loosening the bolt to prevent it from twisting and make sure that the cables are still in proper alignment as this can lead to accelerated wear/failure. As far as the spacing goes that sounds about right, for light to very light camera setups I usually back my springs off about 15-30 threads. One thing to keep in mind with the master arm is that similar to a IIIa arm it will seek it's float point more strongly the more tension you take off the springs.

[Jerry Holway]

I would use caution in making the spacers much bigger and relaxing the springs too far.

 

Not only will the arm be less and less iso, but you run the risk of the springs shifting far enough to hit one of the pulleys.

 

You can probably work with the less iso arm (but it will get very hard to boom fully up), but you really don't want the spring terminals to hit the pulleys.

 

Go very slowly and look at all the springs.

 

Use the lowest lift setting in the arm that works.

 

Best of luck.

 

Jerry

[Tony Reyes]

Thank you for the responses. The 1.5" worked well. Jerry, I did notice that it was less iso. I'm planning on modifying it back down to .75". It seems like even when I have larger ENG cameras on my sled I tend to be adding the viewfinder just for extra weight. Hopefully this will at least alleviate that.

 

Thanks again.

Edited March 20, 2012 by Tony Reyes

[Adam Mendry]

Hello i need a quick help.

Today on set i heard a weird sound comming out of my arm.

Firstly i thought it can be the cover touching my spring, so i took the off

but then i found that the cables might be not in good possition making spring do the sound, i can say that it looks more twisted than in second section of the arm.
How can i repair it myself?

[Brendan]

Hello All,

 

I am trying to detune my steadicam master to support a ronin M gimbal with a sony a7sII. I have followed the detune instructions to a t. Does anyone have any idea of what is the absolute minimum weight needed

 

 

Thanks!!