Mounting points on Tiffen rigs

[Louis Puli SOC]

Hi everyone

I would like to see how everyone are mounts their MDR's and BFD receivers to Tiffen Ultra /clipper rigs .

Thanks

Louis

[Philip J. Martinez SOC]

Tiffen made this mount. 4 screws to the MDR and 4 screws from the U-bolt (not really I just cant think of a better way to describe it)

[Bryant Swanstrom]

Velcro

 

[David M. Aronson]

Tiffen made this mount. 4 screws to the MDR and 4 screws from the U-bolt (not really I just cant think of a better way to describe it)

Why is your plate named Platypus?

 

And industrial strength Velcro is the way to go. I used to have a 2x2 piece of plywood covered in Velcro and when I waled into my house, I could throw my keys wallet and phone at it and I'd always know where they were. It was also a great conversation starter.

[Philip J. Martinez SOC]

Platypus Productions Corp. is my company name.

 

I prefer something more solid then velcro. The MDR2 is more fragile then something you would throw against a wall.

 

 

 

[Sanjay Sami]

Hi everyone

I would like to see how everyone are mounts their MDR's and BFD receivers to Tiffen Ultra /clipper rigs .

Thanks

Louis

 

I use a v-lock plate from Element Technica

[James Davis]

Optical Support removed the Long nose on my Archer 1 and fitted a "Pro style" Tongue for the MDR to bolt into my top stage.

 

With this I can bolt an MDR straight in, no problem.

However I own a single channel preston kit also, which has a different fitment so I had an adapter plate made to allow this to fit the MDR tongue.

The follow focus kit also has a rail-mount bracket inside it which fits 15 and 19mm rails so it can be used for non steadicam use also.

Will try and take photo's when I get time.

[Alfeo Dixon SOC]

I prefer something more solid then velcro. The MDR2 is more fragile then something you would throw against a wall.

Velcro Brand Industrial Strength 4" does the trick, besides... its supported by 3 to four cables if it falls, I'm more so worried about it unlocking during a shot and I have done plenty of whips and not a problem

 

I use a v-lock plate from Element Technica

I too thought about that Sanjay, maybe add a V-Lock to the bottom of my stage nose for quick on and off for camera transitions. Thats why I dropped the Tiffen one

 

Will try and take photo's when I get time.

Please.

[RonBaldwin]

seems like a good idea would be for tiffen to add, or someone make a small dovetail on the lower part of that "snout" so anything could be added/mounted solidly and removed easily (similar to Sanjay's idea). Of course velcro "works" but it isn't that elegant of a solution for a $5000 1.5 lb box with multiple cables attached. Never looked that closely at the front of the masters series/ultra sleds, are there even tapped holes there to mount things?

 

Does the front come off? Seems like it might get in the way of some set-ups.

 

rb

 

**just saw James' post about having his removed so I guess it's there to stay unless you get all old-school and hack it off...obviously opens a can of worms as far as where to put all the stuff that is in there or maybe more would have done this.

[Philip J. Martinez SOC]

You should use what ever make you happy. I'm am going to stick with my bracket.

[James Davis]

seems like a good idea would be for tiffen to add, or someone make a small dovetail on the lower part of that "snout" so anything could be added/mounted solidly and removed easily (similar to Sanjay's idea). Of course velcro "works" but it isn't that elegant of a solution for a $5000 1.5 lb box with multiple cables attached. Never looked that closely at the front of the masters series/ultra sleds, are there even tapped holes there to mount things?

 

Does the front come off? Seems like it might get in the way of some set-ups.

 

rb

 

**just saw James' post about having his removed so I guess it's there to stay unless you get all old-school and hack it off...obviously opens a can of worms as far as where to put all the stuff that is in there or maybe more would have done this.

 

I'll take some photos tomorrow afternoon (GMT) when I get near my kit at the office, I've had some other pretty useful modifications done to it as well, had the topstage clamping lever machined down so it locks in place properly when you close it unlike the original design which would sometimes start to release a little randomly when in low mode for extended periods of time.

I also had that stupid lemo based HD connection removed at the back of the junction box and replaced with a HD-SDI connector (which makes a lot more sense in my opinion) and now have a cheap HD monitor at the bottom, removing the need for a redbyte, along with a custom bracket for the monitor which matches the look of the original one.

 

The MDR mount was added just before I owned the rig, however the rest was done after I got it, all carried out by Optical Support.

Edited February 13, 2012 by James Davis

[Alfeo Dixon SOC]

seems like a good idea would be for tiffen to add, or someone make a small dovetail on the lower part of that "snout" so anything could be added/mounted solidly and removed easily (similar to Sanjay's idea). Of course velcro "works" but it isn't that elegant of a solution for a $5000 1.5 lb box with multiple cables attached.

Sanjay is right on point with what I was thinking also, just got lazy with the velcro, it even holds my moded Decimator under the MDR2.

http://elementtechnica.mybigcommerce.com/products/Preston-MDR2-V%252dLock-Plate.html

Never looked that closely at the front of the masters series/ultra sleds, are there even tapped holes there to mount things?

 

Does the front come off? Seems like it might get in the way of some set-ups.

 

**just saw James' post about having his removed so I guess it's there to stay unless you get all old-school and hack it off...obviously opens a can of worms as far as where to put all the stuff that is in there or maybe more would have done this.

Only twice have I had to do something about the nose, which carries all the electronics of the motorized top stage and the digital level sensor. You can always 180º it or like with the P+S Freestyle 3D Rig, just remove the nose all together and use an analog level. Not hard to do, just a few screws and your done

Edited February 13, 2012 by Alfeo Dixon

[James Davis]

Mine is an Archer 1 with a non-motorized stage, so probably a lot less going on internally I imagine as I have no motorized stage and no internal level sensor.

 

I WILL take some pictures as soon as I can but I was unexpectedly out of the office all day and now have to attend a friends leaving drinks in half an hour, so hopefully tomorrow i'll try and get it done.

[Alfeo Dixon SOC]

Thus the mod is done...

 

3alityTechnica MDR mount and Female V-lock

 

[Alfeo Dixon SOC]

Does the front come off? Seems like it might get in the way of some set-ups.

Heres the nose off Ron, all you need is a plug for the open area and your good to go... just no more digital level and remote top stage.

 

You also loose the small lemo 0B 3 pin for your MDR, but you do have the two 12v regulated Hirose 4Pin, which I had a Multi D-Tap made for the odds and ends and have a MDR D-Tap power cable for.